Kris, that’s a thing of beauty! 
Those cranks are a piece of real beauty!
If only i had waited before buying those 125/150 moment cranks, well, the next Muni will have a pair of those.
Kris, thank you for such nice Unicycle equipment, and thank you for forwarding my best wishes and greetings to all those involved in the process of creating and making it.
Greetings
Byc
Hey Kris,
Looking at the pictures you posted, I noticed that there are no washers in between the brake mount and the brake caliper, but the installaion instructions say that these are needed. Is it more of a case by case deal as to whether or not washers are required, or is a different sized spacer being used for the crank (like a 6mm spacer instead of an 8mm). Can that even be done to remove the need for the 2mm washer? Or are the clearances to tight for that?
Thanks.
I’m going to change the instructions to state that washers “may” be required to properly center the caliper. It looks like they are not, in every case, needed.
Kris
Toronto
I live in Toronto! It was just a joke!
YUMMM so much suff so little money
Coolio, just wanted to clarify. Thanks!
Dang, again i’ve ordered too soon. 
Just bought two pairs (for me and my girlfriend) and got the old version.
So, next time anyone wants to know if a major upgrade is coming soon, just ask if i bought something recently.:o
Greetings
Byc
P.s.: Kris, one question about the Armor sizes.
“To find the correct size, measure the length of your leg from the top of your ankle joint to the middle of your knee” so does “tops of the ankle” mean “on top” (from the tip of your ankle bone) or “above” (right above the ankle bone). That’s about 2.5cm difference, about on size.
I should have thought that given you have adjustment between the post mount adapter and the caliper (and that it looks like that caliper is nowhere near the end of that adjustment range) that it would only be in a few rare cases where washers would be needed - possibly none. Unless of course you’re using an IS mount caliper without an adapter, in which case the washers are the means of adjustment.
It’s not a big deal to use washers, I have one on one side of my Impulse brake mount, it’s really just to improve the alignment. Hydraulics self adjust and the tolerance is smaller than mechanicals, so unless you have a fancy brake and can adjust the tolerance…
Disc brakes are not without issues, I have to tweak my rotors once in a while to keep it from rubbing the pads; munis get a lot more abuse than mtbs.
And…since the crank position (and hence the rotor position) on the splines can vary over time depending on which hub you use (brand, age, wear) the need to use washers makes sense.
On my first edition Oregon frame I had to use a lot of washer, like 3-4 per bolt, and I didn’t notice any issues with flexing; read as no rubbing or squeaking. When I got the new frame with the D Brake, it made no difference in performance either way.
The IS mount on the frame is positioned to fit the hub model that places the installed cranks (and disk rotor, attached to the crank) closest inwards towards the frame.
The KH/Schlumpf hub, which has no bearing spacer and has a 2 mm shorter axle than the Moment hub, is the closest tested. In the past couple of years, some Moment hubs have also been shipped with 6 mm width spacers between the bearing and crank; some with 8 mm spacers (currently it is 6).
Most disk calipers have about 3 mm of lateral adjustment. If you get to the end of that range and the outside disk pad is still rubbing a bit, it’s easily solved by adding washers to move the caliper 1-2 mm outboard, and then you can use the lateral adjustment of the caliper to fine tune it.
All of the above takes practically longer to explain than to do; it’s not complicated and once you’ve got it adjusted you really don’t need to touch it, in my experience. It just works.
Kris
Compatibility question –
Are the new Double-Hole Disc Cranks compatible with pre-2012 KH frames with a KH/Schlumpf hub if a disc brake is NOT used? In other words, is the requirement to file the outside face of the bearing housing only if you mount a disc to the crank arm?
I would say yes as it’s related to clearance with disc bolts
Yes, absolutely. In fact, for any riders that had issues with Moment cranks rubbing on the frame when installed with the KH/Schlumpf hub, these would be a good upgrade, in addition to the fact that they are lighter. The disk spider is small enough that it doesn’t look like anything is missing if there is no rotor attached to it.
K.
I need 110/127/150mm triple hole spirit crank.
When does you build it?
There’s just too few riders that want this, to justify adding another model. But the 127/150 could be modified to add a 3rd hole if know a machinist that can do it.
Kris
How about a 175/150?
The cranks are forged, not machined. This is stronger than purely CNC machined cranks in the same material, and more efficient to produce, although the setup cost is a lot higher and you have to make higher quantities at each production run. The forge tooling is for 165 mm cranks, and all the shorter ones are machined. That means that nothing longer than 165 mm can be produced.
Bearing holder changes?
Does anyone know if Kris changed the design of the removable bearing cups on his new frames to remove the inner lip? My 2 new frames both shipped with removable bearing holders like below (no lip), but the frames bearing cups still have the inner lip like normal bearing holders. I know he reduced the outside edge of the bearing cup by 2mm, but he never mentioned anything about the inner lip… 
I’ve emailed him to check, seems a little strange to have the lip on one side of the frame and not on the other…??? I’m a little hesitant to put my schlumpf in my new 36er frame until I confirm if the bearing cups are indeed meant to be that way…
Cheers,
Dmac
