+1
also you should promote UCM as a way to adapt old frames to Spirit cranks - it is designed for right side.
Indeed, it is why I ordered a UCM and 180mm mount last week. 
Especially important since I can’t find the new KH26 frame anywhere yet.
Maybe 18mm distance would be safer for a triple crank. So how about 162/144/126 or 163/145/127? For geared hub riders 145 would be a good all rounder position and then 163 for long and or steep climbs and 127 for longer flat sections. I think that would be very cool for the G26 and the G36 as well.
Hi guys. I just wanted to chime in, accept defeat, place blame, and move on. I would love to have had produced and competed with Kris’s Spirit and still wish to do so. However, I need a motivated backer that is willing to see the value in the concept as Kris has with a willingness to go forward regardless of competition of well established competitors.
I had a completed design nearly two years ago but it was stonewalled. Even with potential significant investment, it seems I was forcing the project against opposing priorities. Instead of selling through several dealers to spread the cost for the initial run and burdening them with selling and some marketing, a convoluted site that isn’t very visible took precedence. Now I see a lot of familiar faces in Kris’s camp that otherwise would have stuck with us if the product had continued to evolve.
I have learned many lessons. I’m not too bitter, I blame myself for failing to argue/convince/motivate investment, but for now I’m out of the game. Therefore there is no need to thread jack, promote, or further discuss what I’m no longer involved in. I feel that I did influence and effect the development of disc brakes in the industry and I’ll have to be satisfied with that. Buying spirit cranks costs a hell of a lot less than prototyping anyway. I just wish I knew that was the company position two years ago.
kb1jki thank you for doing what you did! you are the unheard hero in this situation.
What i said in this post KH SPIRIT 3 holes cranks 110 / 127 / 150mm
Is the solution.
Kris should make blank cranks with no holes.
So people can make there own length.
Wow, good to hear from you. Hope you are well. I should go to the latest ride thread to see if you posted pics from the exotic land you now call home! There is a FB group page named after Jeff’s company to organize local rides… post there if you find yourself visiting this area -it will be good to ride with you again.
It certainly is a solution for those with access to that kind of machining equipment.
But I think my suggestion isn’t completely unrealistic either. Who knows, maybe Nimbus or Qu-ax could make some too if nobody else wants to.
Kris, did anyone get the new KH26 frames in stock? Compulsion never received them and UDC says Out of Stock every time I look. I bought the UCM in the meantime, but really want the new KH26 frame.
Kimmie
It’s possible they sold out very quickly. Maybe try UDC Canada?
http://www.municycle.ca/kris-holm-unicycle-frame-26-2012-p-885.html
Thank you, I see they do ship to USA. I will consider that. 
I see they have only 5 units in stock. Ouch.
What’s the availability for the new saddles? I spoke with UDC UK yesterday, and they didn’t get any with their shipment of new parts. As I said to Roger, given the summer we’re having, a non-absorbent cover is pretty much essential (also see http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70696&page=418#post1523569)
I am riding 137 Spirit cranks on my trials and they are quite good! I dont like them as much as moments tho!
I haven’t been on for a long long time but it’s awesome to see these product updates!
I’m only going to comment on what fields I’ve experience with and this is in no way an out-of-the-blue criticism, just a point of curiosity and suggestion as I’ve had experience in various areas of frame design in both bike and uni and am always interested in how far it’s possible to make the very most out of a frame.
The new IS disc mounts- it’s always great to see evolution in your frames Kris and I think the introduction of disc mounts is a big step forwards for the future. But I’m thinking more long-term here in that these current new disc mounts I fear might cause unnecessary stress on the frame/mount itself after prolonged use as there is a huge amount of stress that disc brakes put on tubing and the mount itself. With all brake mounts whether rim or disc, the welding on of a tab/mounts can very easily end up causing a stress riser on the top edge of the top weld against the tubing or alternatively just snap off clean at the weld itself. I realise that unis don’t put as much stress on disc mounts as bikes do just by nature but I’m just offering a suggestion for the future as I really believe in pushing out the best possible product/design from the getgo which is what I was striving for with the first Tritons back in 06/07 with their semi-flat crown design. That was the best I could come up with at that time but am always open to see how I could improve things as much as possible. I’m not making this current disc mount to be an achilles heel at all, I’m just suggesting that it seems too simplistic for a high-end brand and frame- and not just from an aesthetic point of view.
I don’t think it’d add much to the costs of manufacturing to add a more reinforced/sturdy disc mount that is less weakening to the tubing it’s welded against and be less prone to snapping off clean itself. Something simple, yet stronger, more rigid, and not too over-doing it, for future years’ KH frames:
The separated tri-weld design with a longer than standard IS disc mount on these Inspired forks and frames are in a another league compared to the simpler standard tab welded on straight with only one line of bead when it comes to rigidity and resilience against snapping off or compromising the tube’s strength. That gusset on the 2nd picture may be a little overkill for a uni but nonetheless that tri-weld/longer tab design in itself is far more frame-friendly and stronger at the welds than a standard short tab welded on in one straight line.
As said, I’m not criticising or putting down the new frames, I think they’re top class. However I just believe a stronger disc mount design would compliment the level that the KH frames themselves sit at. Just some thought for next year’s line!
One last suggestion for riders using disc mounts: get them faced!
See the silvered circles on the inside of the disc mount surrounding the holes? It’s more or less compulsory on any high-end bike fork or frame to have mounts faced if you want the best possible seating for your disc caliper against the mount. Especially on disc mounts, something as seemingly innocent as the paint/powdercoating can leave your disc caliper not having the firmest, straightest attachment possible. Facing makes a huge difference if you want the very best performance out of your disc brake and usually only costs pocket money to get it done at a good bike shop.
Forgot to add: if facing a KH frame’s disc mount, it would be done on the outside since that’s where the caliper sits against (as opposed to on the inside on bike forks/frames). It just guarantees a completely flush fit that does make setting up/alignment a hell of a lot easier! 
From my personal experience- setting up a disc brake and aligning the rotor perfectly is really frustrating with an unfaced disc mount. The difference that facing makes to a disc mount is like night and day!
All in all everything I’ve said is meant in a positive/constructive critical way and not just a dig if it seemed like that. Really looking forward to see how discs make it in the Muni world. Thank you Kris!
I’ve wrote a lot. Time to get out!
Hi Sponge,
Thanks for all the detailed comments - well taken.
I spent a lot of time with the manufacturer trying to get the disk frame mount in the correct location and alignment, including a visit to the factory in Taichung where we sat down with multiple prototypes, and a special test jig built to check them after production. We had a few more elaborate shapes in the works for the disk mount, including one with a thicker area around the bolt holes for facing (which didn’t work in the end, because of the thickness of the mount and the weld position). We eventually settled on the simplest version. As you also describe, it doesn’t look as hard as it is!
Kris
Hi Knoxuni,
Could you clarify what you mean by don’t like them as much as moments? weight and Q-factor difference? Or would you please start new review thread on new Spirit crank with photos compare over Review section?
I am keening to get spirit cranks but toward to moment crank while they were on sale with good price. Disc brake isn’t my priority as right now.
That’s awesome to hear I think thickness of the mount isn’t going to be a problem since the stresses of a disc mount on a uni isn’t going to be as consistently severe as on a bike’s fork. But for the following batches of disc KH muni frames would the factory be able to face each of the disc mounts at the very end of production? I guess that just depends on if Branc’s factory has a disc spot-facing tool on hand, as the facing job itself is really quick and easy with the tool. I think it’d be a really worthwhile finishing touch to the frames to make disc set up both quicker and everything sitting flush/in line.
From personal experience disc brakes are extremely sensitive in set-up and performance. It’s one of the few areas of a bike/uni where being a picky perfectionist really does pay its dividends in full.
Also for 4-bolt Magura mounts, facing them really helps too in getting a flush set up, you can actually notice the difference in a flushly clamped down brake from the lever pull. It just eliminates the mushy feel that most brakes have from un-faced painted mounts. Luckily you can face these without the need for a special tool (unlike disc):
Though I don’t ride, I’m pretty sure these new KH frames will be most Muni riders’ first taste of working with disc brakes- and they can be a right pain or your best friend, depending on preparation! When I first started using discs on my trials bikes years back the most frustrating thing was having a caliper that was ever ever so slightly angled against the rotor which meant a mushy lever feel and surprisingly big disappointment in disc biting and holding power. Facing the disc mounts played the pivotal role in giving a solid lever response and the aggressive bite/hold expected of disc brakes. It’ll also help the pads wear evenly too
Important tip when first using disc brakes:
Cold water! You heard right! Disc brakes take time to bed in and definitely more so than rim brakes. All you need to do is ride down a long hill whilst dragging the brake, once you reach the bottom you’ll notice the rotor is VERY hot (don’t touch with your fingers or you will get burnt). Have icy cold water (pref.) handy in a bottle and splash it over the disc rotor and into the pads inside the caliper. Then go to the top of the hill and repeat this whole process a few times. This gives disc brakes a much faster and effective bedding in process. The difference in performance between a well prepared disc brake and one that’s just been slapped on is night and day. It’s well recommended throughout all biking disciplines.
-Facing to get everything straight and flush
-Cold water to get the disc to speed up bedding-in and achieve its full potential
they feel to thin. its just not the same as the old.
they weigh quite a bit less. about the same q factor