Why does the KH 29" Mountain Wheelset cost so much? It’s $372 on UDC. I added up the cost of each component, and the total was at least $150 less than that. Do they charge that much for a wheel build?
Sounds great! Thanks, now I think I’ve made up my mind regarding the tire choice: it’s going to be a stout.
Got a WTB Stout arriving tomorow hopefully. Cant wait to try it out. Am running kenda klaw 1.95 at the moment. Also switched down to 125mm cranks recently from 140’s and really loving the extra speed. Had a great ride last night flying through some twisty singletrack.
@412 what do you mean by “pecking”?
You, me and Kris Holm have something in common then… BTW: For real trail riding I can’t imagine using the other “paper sidewalls” 29er tyres. (But I guess you already “knew” from everyone else that the Stout is supposedly the best 29er tyre for real trails.)
If you are ever in Gothenburg feel free to contact me, we are 3 people ATM that are riding 29ers. (Due to a few ruptered tendons in my foot, there will be no 24" riding for another 6 months at least. 6 down, 6 to go… )
Unless I got the term wrong: mini side-hopping up gradients too tough to climb by riding properly. Pecking as in George(?) Peck (“co-founder of muni”)who "invented it.
Just a guess, as the prices went up for 2008. Perhaps the parts are 2007 and the set is the 2008 version?
ah cool ok. No i’m sure its ‘correct’. I just didnt know what it meant. Had presumed there was George Peck link though… Must watch that video again sometime soon.
I do appreciate all of the advice everyone. I just can’t seem to make up my mind.
I just check your math on UDC US and you seem to be correct $372 for the wheelset with tire, and $195.79 for parts and $230.79 with UDC’s “custom wheelbuild” I’m going to go with 412’s guess of '07 parts and '08 wheelset.
The Panaracer Rampage 2.35 also works great for muni on a 29". Better at higher pressures i.e. 45psi+ imo where it’s a fast, agile, grippy and light tire. Good in wet and dry. Been riding it all Winter and now into Spring. Only negative for me is that at lower pressures, apart from the drag, it doesn’t handle camber well.
A propos the WTB Stout: In Europe you can’t get the Stout with steel bead from regular bike shops. As far as I know only UDC can supply them. I did the mistake ordering a Stout from cyclecomponents.com and at delivery I discovered it was a folding tyre with real thin walls.
I still ride my KH29 with the original Kenda Klaw and as long as I stick to smooth and fast singletracks I can keep tyre pressure high and enjoy the very light setup – lighter than my KH24.
But I will eventually order a Stout with steel bead, if for no other reason, out of curiosity.
just got some rly rly short cranks on my 29er, my old ones were 170 or something and i think these are like 100 so it’s hard to control but DAMN it goes fast and it’s fun
Thanks for the suggestion. I think that’s the tire my friend uses, and it is indeed very good. Hm. I might even change my mind - the Panaracer Rampage seems to be lighter than WTB Stout and thus better for riding long distance (specially in hilly areas… maybe?).
goldenchickenIV: Great that you pointed it out. If Unicycle.com Sweden didn’t have the Stout I was actually planning to order from cyclecomponents. You probably just saved me a few bucks and lots of trouble.
Hey wait a minute. I was just going to ask you where you live, but…
Is that you, )–O***?!
(Censured in case you want to stay anonymous. ;))
Not sure about the weight of the Stout. Fwiw my Rampage 2.35 weighs 748gr, compared to the Kenda Klaw 1.95 at 854gr. The Rampage has been excellent in all off road terrain, fast across the flats, great for climbing and descent. Off road the 29 felt ok but never great with the Klaw 1.95, not really a tire that inspires confidence imo - too narrow, not enough air volume I guess. After switching from the Klaw to the Rampage I was amazed at the overall improvement, like it encourages you to ride harder and longer - great match for the 29. Several months later I’m still loving it!
The downside to the Rampage imo is that at low pressures it has a mind of its own, seriously effected by the terrain, determined to go wherever it wants which is not always where you want to go. At higher pressures though, which suits my riding, it’s been an excellent all round muni tire
I bought a couple of 29" tires from www.bike29.com, the service and price was good.
Ha ha – no sweat, one can’t stay anonymous when riding unicycles. If Peter hasn’t got the Stout, try Roger. Actually, it was Miark at the British outlet who told me that the Stouts are imported directly from the US.
Nothing like a 29" for riding in the woods
Nice day for a ride thru the woods.
Which unicycle, hmmm (20", 29", 36").
No contest, out comes the 29"
I jump on my 29 and go for a ride.
Start off on the bike trails for the first 5kms, then I make my way off roading where the local bmxer’s ride the loop-de-loo’s and jumps, next I make my way to the entrance to the woods where the all terrain vehicle forage.
The trail is well packed down and rutted from the four wheel drive vehicles thru the woods. My 29 easily rolls over the roots, and obstacles in its path. Another 5km’s passes and I make my way back to regular riding.
I think of my 29" as the jeep of the unicycle family. It can go thru anything and still get me there quickly.
I am hoping someone can answer my crank question…I have a KH29 with a Big Apple tire and the dual hole (125, 150) crank. I don’t know which (125 or 150) is better for mostly flat road riding. Is it just personal preference or is there some technical basis for which to use? I have messed around with both…
Crank question: Answer
My response is based on my own riding style and use of 29". Others may contradict but here you go.
My normal ride on my 29 is 25km distance with 5 - 10 km offroading thru woods. I have tried different length cranks (104, 125, 150, 170). I quickly discarded the 104 because of downhill control (but great speed), and discarded the 170 because my knees began to hurt due to extra travel from crank length.
Next I tried the 150 and found that the 125 offered me the greatest knee comfort while riding 25kms and speed for the distance. Also the downhill sections where just as easy on 125 vs 150 (no control issues). Hill climbing thru the woods also was not an issue using the 125’s. Hopping and idling also where not an issue with the 125.
For simplicity, I have standardized on the 125 on both my 29" and 36" unicycle. My body has become accustomed to it. My freemounting is consistant and I wouldn’t want to switch between 125 and 150 for any reason. My other cranks are just gonna gather dust.
Tammy, becareful of the dual hole crank when set to 125’s. They can catch shoelace or pantlegs and cause a Un planned dismount. I’d stick with regular cranks.
That’s my 2 cents.
Shorter cranks are easier to spin faster and more comfortable on the knees and sit bones because there is less leg movement. If you’re satisfied with the speed and comfort with 150s, then there isn’t really any reason that 125s are better.
It is mostly personal preference. Generally, more experienced riders prefer shorter cranks. For flat riding, 150 is rather long for a 29’er. There is indeed a technical basis for that. With shorter cranks, your feet move through a smaller circle. This means that the speed of your feet going through the pedaling circle is lower, which gives the potential of turning a bit faster and so riding a bit faster. Or, at the same speed but more comfortable because you don’t have to move your feet that much. But then again, whether you want more speed (or comfort) is again a matter of personal preference.
I don’t have dual-hole cranks myself but talked to various people who have them. No-one had an issue with the extra inch of metal sticking out, but YMMV.
Your much more accomplished on your 29", but maybe with some practice
If I stay with the 125, it is the same as my KH24. That may be better all around!