The dual hole cranks are what came with my KH29 when I ordered it. Now that I feel I will stay with 125, I don’t like how it looks with the extra hole…maybe someday I will pull it and replace it with a solid 125mm.
The 150 slot will give you more tourque (as well as a bit more control at slow speeds) for climbing hills and rolling over rocks and rutes in MUni. So unless you don’t have any really steep hills where you live or don’t plan on ever doing MUni, I’d keep the double holes (much less so if you only ride smooth, flatish trails).
Just wondering, does anyone have the Qu-Ax muni 29er? I need a new 29er for this year’s Mountain Mayhem 24hr race, and at £175 with an Isis hub it looks like a bargain. I noticed it’s the only 29er around with a 48-spoke wheelset, as far as I can see this would be good for strength but bad for weight. Are there any other good/bad things about this uni that anyone knows of?
Just wondering, does anyone have the Qu-Ax muni 29er? I need a new 29er for this year’s Mountain Mayhem 24hr race, and at £175 with an Isis hub it looks like a bargain. I noticed it’s the only 29er around with a 48-spoke wheelset, as far as I can see this would be good for strength but bad for weight. Are there any other good/bad things about this uni that anyone knows of?
The Qu-ax 29" is a great choice for offroad.
Just remember to upgrade the frame to a roundcrown if you start getting problems hitting your knees againts the frame with tight turning.
And don’t pick to long cranks, 145 of 125mm would be suitable for offroad use.
Anything longer won’t realy help you going faster…
Do you have one of the Qu-Ax’s then?
I will be using 150 or 145mm cranks, that’s a disadvantage of the Qu-Ax actually as the one on Unicyclist.co.uk comes with 170s.
I’ve looked a bit closer at the Nimbus 29 muni now, and I’m starting to think that might be better, even though it’s bit more money, as the saddle looks nicer, it comes with 145mm cranks, and the frame has machined bearing holders. Also the 36-spoke wheel might be better as it is lighter, and the race I’m doing has lots of climbing.
My brother has the Quax with a few upgrades (T7, HS33 and roundcrown frame)
He likes it.
I know someone who owns one.
But if you order a Nimbus 29", make sure you have a doublewall wheelset instead of the blue or red singlewall wheelset.
I ride a Nimbus 29" with powdercoated black frame, HS33 Magura, T7 handle, and a KH doublewall rim on a Nimbus ISIS hub with 125mm cranks.
If you don’t want a brake, you should use 145mm cranks to be able to controll your speed on downhills. Then when your legs are used to braking, try cranks a lenght shorter.
To Marco: shouldn’t you be outside now and train for you Marathon soon? 
So here it is, my new 29" XC: “Lucky 8”
Specs:
T7 bar with PRO grips, lights, bell and a Sigma BC 1606L bikecomputer
KH Freeride Fusion sadle
KH 2008 bikestyle seatpost
Nimbus clamp
Nimbus roundcrown frame 2008
Magura HS33 brake
Nimbus ISIS hub
Qu-ax ISIS cranks 125mm
BMX style pedals
Kris Holm 2007 29" rim
Kenda Klaw XT 29x2.1"
Lucky 8 ball valvecap
Never been ridden in this build because of my broken ankle.
Taking it out for a first spin on thursday
“Lucky 8” is an ironic name because I broke my left ankle on my last XC ride on my old 29" XC. Hope it doens’t happen again on this nice machine
I don’t have a 29 (yet), but I’m a little worried that since I decided to start out on a 26, I won’t have any use for such a small gain in wheel size when I do move up, and will be “forced” to go straight to a 36. 
I really like the looks of the 29’s. They seem like such a good compromise between a too small 20 and a huge 36. 
I sold my 29 to get a 26, still have a 24. Al I ride is the 26, I don’t see any reason to go smaller, but if I were to go larger it would a 36. I can do anything on the 26 that I can do on a 24, but the 26 is more stable for climbing, rolls obstacles better, and I have tons of tires choices.
I’d consider a 29 in place of the 26 only if there were some decent tire choices, i.e. 2.5-2.7". I rode the Stout, it’s way to narrow for tech stuff unless your KH himself.
Now that KH is making a 26" frame and 47mm rim, folks who want a big muni can choose, so were no longer stuck with choosing a 24 or a 29.
Once I sell my 24, I’m looking at getting a KH 36 
And just a thought on crank lengths: I don’t think anyone should limit their crank length to short lengths just because most big wheel riders use a short crank; it’s probably cuz they don’t do technical muni If anything, getting a 29er rolling big obstacles, climbing steep hills, or hopping are all easier with a long crank. I ran 165’s on my KH 29 and it was great for muni. For XC I could get by with 150’s.
I have this uni, have not been on any long rides yet but it feels pretty bombproof. The 170 cranks that come with it are quite long so it may be worth putting 150s on it. The uni feels nice to ride (better than my learner uni 
). The seatpost it comes with is massive, im 5’10" and I had to cut 5 1/2" off it, although if it had shorter cranks this would not be as much of a problem. So far I have had no problem with my knees on the flat crown as the cranks are long and my seatpost is low so my knees don’t come above the crown when I am riding. The uni is abot 7kg so not as light as a kris holm but probably as strong. The uni has mounts for magura brakes if required, mine does not have a brake as it has long cranks.
Overall I think it is a exellent unicycle for the money.(£175 +£12 postage from UDC).
My plan, since injuring my lower back 12 years ago, is to never, ever ride serious off road, do technical stuff or jump obstacles. I just plan to ride on the street or maybe a dirt path suitable for a toddler on a trike.
I’m thinking a 36 would probably be my best choice.
I got the 26 purely for its size because I’m very tall.
I have to say that I do like the looks of a 29, though, but that’s mainly because on a 29 you have less distance to fall.
ready for commuter/hybrid unicycle?
I bought a learner unicycle (Torker LX 20”) from a local bike store a couple of weeks ago. I could ride the standard 50m after 4 or 5 hours of practice and freemount with a reasonable success rate half an hour later. Overall I am progressing a little faster than I was expecting. I am now at the stage where I can ride on the sidewalk. I want to learn a few more skills but they are mostly associated with riding further, like going up and down curbs, idling, making sharper turns, etc, in others words things that now stop my runs on the sidewalk. Basically the main type of riding I would like to be able to do is similar to what I can do on a commuter/hybrid/city bike. I want to cover some distance on the road and be able to ride on fairly groomed multi use trails. From what I am reading a 29” seems to be the compromise I am looking for, right? I am fairly short and a 26” might also be acceptable but most 26” unicycles being sold seem to be built for technical Muni on very rough terrain. Maybe I should also point out that it is a bit hilly where I live, if one looks within a 1km radius from my house the average gradient is probably close to 5% in every direction.
Sorry for the long preamble, my question is at what stage is someone normally ready to learn to ride a bigger wheel like 29” and keep a logical sequence in the development of unicycle skills? In other words, are there useful prerequisites I need to acquire on a small wheel that would avoid me major frustrations.
Welcome to the forums Canuck. You’re right that the 29" is a good choice for a combination of commuting, groomed trails and city riding. Since I guess you’re not throwing/giving away your 20", or trading it in for the 29", I’d say there is no reason to wait with the purchase of a 29". So there are really no prerequisites since you’ll be able to switch between the two unicycles, and hence you can already get a feel for it, while being able to fall back to the 20" to learn other basic skills like idling which is quite a bit harder on a big wheel. It’ll be a strange feeling at first to ride a 29", but you can take confidence from the fact that you seem to learn somewhat faster than average.
Thanks for the response Klass Bil. Yes, I intend to keep the 20” to develop my skills. By the way, my original motivation to learn to ride a unicycle was to help my son learn to ride his bike without training wheels. He is riding with almost no assistance now and very soon we will be able to ride together with him on his bike and me on the unicycle. Of course riding a unicycle is so much fun and I immediately caught the bug.
I am starting to shop for a 29”. I assume the Nimbus is strong enough in its default configuration for the type of riding I described in my previous post (road, groomed trails, no drops higher than a typical curb) and the KH29 would be an overkill, would you agree?
This is exactly the type of riding I do; the Nimbus 29 has been great for it thus far.
Yep.
…unless you plan to upgrade to a geared hub later on. People have had problems when trying to use the KH geared up in other frames.
IMO The KH 29 is only worth the extra $ over a Nimbus if your getting a geared hub or at least moderately tech Muni.
KH29: 2009 vs 2008 worth +$150?
Hi all:
I’m pretty settled on getting a KH29, and am now considering the differences between the 2008 and 2009. The difference in US dollars is about $150. Is it worth the extra money for the 2009 upgrades?
Here’s what I understand the differences to be: