29" Discussion thread

Switched from Kenda Klaw to Nano Rapture

Wow neat tread design on your tire Squeakyonion.

I recently swapped out my tire.

For street riding the Big Apple looks great probably less rolling resistance to my Nano Rapture.

For me I needed a bit more agressive tire for off roading, down grassy/muddy slops. The kenda klaw really worked well for that part but on paved roads the tire really slows you down.

Big Apple tyre + mtb tube?

Hello again and I’m after some advice.

I’ve got a WTB Stout on my KH29 and after next week I want ot put my Big Apple road tyre on. I’m gonna ride around Lake Vyrnwy with some running mates of mine.

Can I use the same tube?? I’ve got a spare Continental 28"MTB tube for my uni from UDC and I was concerned that I might need a different tube for the road tyre.

Anyone got any advice?

Thanks in advance,


The tube should be marked with the tyre width that it is suitable for.

After some more extensive use of it, I’ve decided that the continental Mountain King 2.2 tire seems quite excellent for the off-roading I do. A view of the tread can be found here. They also make a 2.4, which I haven’t tried.

After riding some mtb trails in the Pine Grove Furnace State Park here in PA, I must express how awesome this tire is. I can’t remember a time that I’ve ever really lost grip, and this includes going over dirt, mud, water, gravel, and leaves; dry or wet, this tire grips like a champ. Also, I ride muni with 125mm cranks. I don’t own 150s (gonna buy some this summer), and thought I would have a real difficult time with the 125s. However, the 125s have been working out ok, and I attribute that a lot to the light-ness of the tire, at about 580g.

The only gripe I have is that sharp turns on pavement are twitchy and a bit hard to control. On dirt or gravel, this isn’t an issue.

To be honest, I’ve never tried any other 29er off-road tire. However, I REALLY like how light the Mountain King is compared to my Big apple 2.35, and wouldn’t want something as heavy as the BA (995g) for trail riding. I think I may try the Big Apple 2.00, since it is lighter AND will (according to what I’ve read elsewhere on the forum) handle road camber better on my commute to work.

Now that I finally have a summer job (and hopefully getting another next week), I have to wait for the paychecks to start rolling in. Then I’ll be able to afford a few things, like the Qu-Ax 150mm cranks, Big Apple 2.00, and Coker touring handle.


My spiral black/white paint job is still holding up well. There is some surface dirt, especially on the sides of the (painted white) cranks, but that wipes off with some windex or simple green. There are about three or four spots where the paint has chipped, which happened when the frame was hit by another hard, metal object (like another unicycle in my trunk, or a crank puller). I’ve also tried to scratch the paint off, and its hard to do. I did make a small scratch, but had to use a knife and dig in really hard. So, my paint job seems very scratch resistant, but not very impact-resistant. I’m glad I left the chrome on, or else I’d have four pea-sized rust spots. Overall, I’m very pleased that it has stood up for so long (about 6 weeks later). Eventually, I may get it powder-coated black, but I have a feeling this paint job is going to last quite a while.

The profile of the Mountain King looks ok. At what pressure do you run the tyres? The most important thing for me is that the tyre can still be manouvered while keeping low pressure. That is where the thickness of the sidewalls play a role - if they are thin they wrinkle when you steer the wheel.

I can’t remember exactly what pressure I ran it at, but not very high. About 30psi, give or take. I’ve never had a problem with wrinkling sidewalls, though I’m not an aggressive rider and don’t tackle extremely difficult trails. The sidewalls do feel a bit thin between my fingers, though.

Putting on a new tube when you put on a new tire can be a good idea. You may be more then half the way to a pinch flat with your old tube. I reuse tubes myself, most of the time.

The size of the tube shouldn’t matter. The thin rubber will ballon out to fill any space. Lot’s of people run 29 tubes in their 36 to save some weight.

Doh! Don’t know why I didn’t check the markings on the tyre and the box…

Bit of a noob mistake, I apologise.

I whacked my Big Apple on my KH29 and did 10miles on Monday night. Much easier than with the WTB Stout. THe only problem I did have was a really sore Top Of Left Leg / Hip area.

I’m guessing that I should have started my training with a smaller run and builtup to the final run.
Anyone else get pain in this region from riding a uni on long distance?

Also, I wore all my pads for this run but didn’t feel like I needed them. Everyone else, still wear pads even thought they’re comfortable or do you all prefer teh freedom of no smelly plastic pads?


Putting a smaller tube than the tire (diam + width) is fine, but can increase the likelyhood of a flat, esp if there are any slight metal nicks on the inner side of your rim. But the lighter weight would allow you accelerate/stop/change direction faster (the most effective place to loose weight).

Lol. I had like 14 patches on a tube once.

I usually keep two tubes. One on the wheel and one patched and ready to go. On rides I sometimes bring my spare tube, a patch kit and pump. Once I got 3 flats.

Probably an unneccessary bump, but I figure it’s better than starting a whole new thread.

I’m doing a lot of street riding on a beat up 24" Savage. Now I figure I’d rather go with a 29" than just simply replace the 24. I have two options. The first being the Nimbus 29er ISIS for $310 + $15 shipping, or a KH 29er 07’ for $425 with free shipping. My question is whether or not the KH would be WELL worth the $100 over the Nimbus. I also have a brand new KH Fusion Freeride saddle, so if the only upgrade is the saddle then it wouldn’t be worth it.

Description of KH:

Description: Kris Holm 29" Mountain Complete Unicycle

29" Mountain
Rim: Kris Holm 700c x 38mm, 36 hole, double wall
Spokes: Black stainless steel 13g
Minimun pedal-saddle distance: 75 cm (30 inches)
Color: dark blue with high-durability, glossy clearcoat, laser-etched logo
Frame: 7005 T6 Aluminium frame
Hub: Kris Holm Moment ISIS hub
Cranks: Kris Holm 150mm Moment
Pedals: Odyssey Trailmix Black
Saddle: Kris Holm Fusion Freeride saddle with dual-density foam and center cutaway. Kris Holm rail adaptor with brake and seatpost mount
Seatpost: J.D. Components 250mm, 27.2mm diameter
Tire: 29 x 2.3 WTB Stout
Seatpost clamp: Double-bolted, aluminium
Magura brake compatible

Wheel Size: 700c
Color: Blue
Weight: 14.8 lbs

Description of Nimbus:


Saddle - Nimbus Gel
S.P. Diameter - 25.4
S.P. Clamp Style - Double Bolt
S.P. Clamp Size - 25.4
Frame Style - Round Crown
Frame Construction - Steel
Frame Finish - Chrome
Bearing Housing - Machined
Bearing Size - 42mm
Rim Size - 700c (29-inch)
Rim Construction - Aluminum Alloy
Rim Type - Single-walled
Tire Size - 29 X 2.35
Tube Size - 700c X 40/45c
Tire PSI - 65 max (recommended 40-45)
Hub Type - ISIS
Hub Construction - CrMo Steel
Spoke Count - 36
Crank Arm Length - 125mm
Crank Arm Type - ISIS
Crank Arm Construction - Aluminum Alloy
Pedal Type - Metal
Pedal Construction - Aluminum
Pedal Protector Size - Size #3
Cycle Weight - 18


@ Connahhh: I would go with the KH for no other reason than I recently got my KH29’er and it rocks !!! It’s very light and nimble and easy to throw around.

On another note… my KH came with the Big Apple road tyre, not what I wanted as I don’t ride on the road, and had to buy an off-road tyre from a LBS. The only decent tyre I could get was the WTB ExiWolf, http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/14894-320_WTBEW6-3-Parts-429-29er-Parts/WTB-Exiwolf-29’’-Folding-Tire.htm

Has anyone used this tyre ? and if so how does it handle in the off-road conditions, particularly if I plan on doing some technical MUni with it ?

I say you should go for the KH29, I believe the nimbus does not come with an adjustable seat post where as the KH does, that makes a big difference IMO. the KH is lighter, has break mounts and is aluminium so wont rust. Its definatly worth it. When I bought my KH29 it came with 2 tyres, not sure if it was ment to or if they still do that though.

For $100 I would definitely upgrade. I bought a 08 KH29 just when they came out. However i recommended my friend to get a Nimbus (less than half the price) because if you are not really passionate about equipment and know you are going to use it a lot, the Nimbus is good enough.

Also if you won’t do rougher stuff, then lighter cranks and rim of the Nimbus make it feel quite a bit lighter. (I think the KH is well over 1kg heavier.)

That said the KH is awesome (got a brake on mine too)… if you have the cash to spare.

Hmm, alright guys. I think if I do buy it, I’ll upgrade. I talked to my Dad about it and he basically said he doesn’t think I should get one at all. If his points are valid, I agree, but I don’t know if they are.

  • 29 and 24 isn’t much different
  • My 24 works fine now
  • Winter is coming up (Is he implying no riding? Noooo!)
  • $300-$400 is a lot of money for a unicycle.

What do you guys think? He said it’s just up to me whatever I want to do, and if I really wanted it, get it, but I don’t know.

I have had this discussion with my wife a few times, one uni can’t be all things! :stuck_out_tongue:

The feel of a 29 is quite different to a 24 - much more momentum and the extra speed is fun, but still good handling offroad and onroad. practical for longer rides. 29 is just a great size wheel.

If you can, I’d say go for it!

Especially when riding it in small towns and parks. That’s where the real fun (i think) really is. :stuck_out_tongue:

Get a 29" if you feel the stuff you are riding is to easy on a the 24", gravel for example is very tedious on a 24" whilst on a 29" (with say 125mm cranks) is interesting since you have some amount of speed compared so the sluggish pace of the 24".

If you get smaller cranks on the 29er it’ll be worth it. (I have a KH24 with Gazz 3.0 which is equivalent to a 26" in circumference, it’s equipped with 150mm cranks) and a KH29 (with 125 mm cranks and a wtb stout 2.35"). These are CERTAINLY different enough to merit having both.

Swap the 125mm cranks and Stout to 110mm and a Big Apple and there is no comparison at all any longer…

It is. I own a 26" Nimbus but will still get a 29" KH08. In my case the wheel diameter will roughly be the same (I have a fat tire on my 26er), but the 26" is my Muni and 29" will be used for Road/XC.

I think 412 covered this point very well.

Snowmuni! :slight_smile:

Compared to a good bike I think it’s affordable.

Depends on what kind you riding you want to do. A 24" is excellent for technical Muni. If you want more speed and maybe ride longer distances, but still going to ride off road, 29" is the way to go.

Hey 412, how does the WTB Stout feel? As I said I’m going to get a 29" soon but haven’t decided which tire I want. I’m not a big fan of Big Apple even though it probably is the best road tire. What I’m looking for is a tire that handles gravel very well, but still can be used for off road.

It handles camber very well. (Well the Gazza is a joke regarding that matter.) It is noticably more sluggish than a BA (due to knobs…).

Handles low pressure well. And due to that a bit heavy, which you’ll notice on climbs… but nothing that you can’t get over. ATM i run 2bars (i weigh 90kg), and it’s wonderful. Did some pecking the other day and sure it folds then when it is really steep, but not to much that it’s bad… it rather ads springyness to the pecking. But really who pecks on a 29:er anyways… :stuck_out_tongue:

Soaks up bumps and things really well. (Well not compared to the Gazz of course but compared to other tyres of equivalent volume.)

All in all a superb tyre for both on and off road, save only for that same weight. (But without the weight it woult have the other nice attributes.)