short cranks = speed
too short cranks = not enough speed.
I can’t even get up to 30km/h with my 89mm. I can get 30+km/h easy with my 114mm.
Guys, let’s keep on topic here. This is a place to post your 36er, not discuss crank length. That is a very personal choice and there is no right answer - discuss in another thread.
Very apropos!
My LBS, Twins Bike shop, set me up with these cool Profile Aero bars with the elbow cups, and they also installed a really nice Cateye cycle comp, since my gps watch won’t hold charge for the whole day.
I tried the aero bars yesterday, but I’m not sure if I’ll use them on my 100 miler. I had them adjusted well enough, but leaning down and forward seemed to put extra pressure on my crotch, which is something I sure don’t want any more of than can be helped, during my ride.
They do fit perfectly onto the “T” of the KH touring bar, and the original bar ends are just flipped 180, to have two options. I think I will just go with the regular KH touring bar though.
I’ll be riding the first half of the century tomorrow, to get a feel for that route. The second half Ive done, which is on the beach bike path.
Since you have the “Century” model it would be a shame not to use them on the 100 miler.
You must be like 8 feet tall to ride with the seat that high?!?!?!?!?!
I got my KH36 last week! Stock setup, except I switched to a non-adjustable seatpost for the small difference in seat height. Even with that, I can just reach the pedals on the 125mm hole, and I’ll have to cut the frame to reach 150mm…
If you switch to a Nimbus seatpost I think you might be able to get the seat low enough without cutting the frame. The CrMo version looks like you could get it just about all of the way to the mounting plate. You may want to talk to Josh at UDC to find out how much lower you could go with one of these.
Maybe not…
oh those are sexy ; )
the lowest you can go is a naomi saddle with a non-KH seatpost. The naomi takes a good 2 inches off of the saddle height, it’s more comfy if you have a handlebar though
I looked at the pictures when I ordered the uni and they looked roughly the same for a 27.2mm, but I’ll ask. The issue is that I do actually need an entire inch more (since at 125mm it’s just barely ridable), and I don’t think all of that can come from the seatpost… Would be nice to get at least part of the inch from something other than cutting the frame though.
Thanks, I’ll look in to that too. That’d pretty much solve the problem (though I love the Freeride so much…).
Just to think about…
if you change to single bolt clamp you can cut the frame an other few mm.
“elk-e” and “enaddi” had the same problems. I cut their frames as much as possible and then it works although a little more would have been better.
I know some people build themselfs special low frames - and that was also for me the reason to designe the Triton 36" x-tra low.
Man this forum needs the “Like” button ala Facebook. Nice photo!
I want one, but i can barely ride my 26 inch 
I guess i’ll have to wait.
Just some old stuff
I like vintage single-speed unicycles. To spiff my old Nimbus up I drilled the airfoil rim, laced it with ss spokes, changed to a narrow hub and repainted frame and hub in Clown Gray. The handle is my old 20" unicycle clad with an old tube. Then I spent almost a day trying to get a 29" tube on the rim. First one popped. And after 24 hour also the second one popped. I have done this several times before and have also managed to keep one and the same tube in there for more than a year. But all in all it’s just too much work. I’ll dig out the old Coker 484 grams tube. Tell me, have they managed to invent any new 36" tubes lately - one that is lighter?
afraid a 36er tube is always going to be crazy heavy : (
nimbus just came out with a drilled rim though! I wouldn’t use it if you’re running a skinny hub though.