I am getting new cranks (Moments) and a crank puller. Looking at the picture, I don’t really get what the crank puller is for. Will it be obvious to me when it comes (probably tomorrow) or will I be completely baffled?
The cranks puller is just a tool to remove the cranks, you dont need it to put the cranks on, but you will need it to remove the other cranks you have on your unicycle now. You cant remove you cranks without a crank puller, unless they are loose all the time with is not good.
My question is will it be easy to figure out what to do with the crank puller? How to use it? Is it obvious or do I need to find someone to help me?
It isn’t really hard to use, you will probably be able to use it as soon as you try it. If you need help you just have to post here, it I dont think you will need help.
It should be fairly obvious. However, the instructions would be roughly something like this;
- Remove the pedals (Left pedal unscrews clockwise!)
- Remove the crank bolts (Both unscrew anti-clockwise)
- Unscrew the inner part of the removal tool so this doesn't protrude far from the outer bit.
- Screw the outer part of the removal tool in to the end of the crank. It doesn't need to be very tight, but finger tight is about right.
- Screw the inner part of the removal tool in with your fingers until it reaches the axle.
- Use a spanner or socket wrench (depending on the tool - it'll be obvious) and continue to tighten the inner part. It will get very hart to move until the crank actually starts to come off.
- Once the crank starts to come loose, it'll probably pull off easily enough by hand.
- Remove the tool and repeat on the other side.
STM
Lubricate the threads on your removal tool before getting started - it will last longer that way.
Make sure that the tool is not cross-threaded when putting them into your cranks - if it is your old cranks will get exponentially more difficult to remove!
Also if you’re using the one from municycle.ca, make sure you use the ISIS adapter if you’re using ISIS cranks!
-M
Crank that puller baby…
I ordered an extractor when I upgraded to moment cranks from Qu-Ax ones. I had never used an extractor but it was straightforward if you apply a little logic. UDC sells a range but the one I got had a small magnetic foot that is detachable as indicated in the attached pic. I understand this acts as a ‘spacer’ or ‘packing’ piece depending on the type of hub you are pulling the crank off.
Sorry if that sounds confusing but it should be clear once you have it in your hand and can offer it up to the crank/hub assembly to assess it. I think that was your question.
Thanks all. I should be able to handle this.
Just a couple of things to keep in mind:
It’s super important to get it threaded all of the way into the crank arm. As said before it doesn’t need to be very tight, but if it’s not all of the way to the end you can inadvertantly pull the threads out of your crank. Also make sure the inner part of the extractor is larger than the bolt hole in the hub axle. If the extractor goes into the hole it could damage the threads inside your axle.
It’s pretty straight forward to use.
Regarding this step: you need to be conscious of how many threads you engage with the outer part of the tool, as these threads will be bearing all the force generated during the removal.
A dirty crank may stop your “finger tightening” after but a couple turns, whereas using a wrench (and/or first cleaning the threads) may allow you an extra turn or three.
If you don’t engage enough threads with the tool, you may well strip your crank. It doesn’t hurt to use a wrench to tighten the outer part of the removal tool; just don’t tighten it too much as it’ll be a pain to remove once the crank is free from the axle.
You will have no problem. It’s pretty intuitive.
It may be intuitive to you and me… but we get a lot of people getting it wrong.
With ISIS we are having quite a bit of problem with people using old exctractors that go into the hole and strip the thread. You need to use a newer ISIS extractor or a penny placed down the hole first to potect the threads will do (for those Americans amoung us that is the smallest REAL demonination that we have - cent or dime will do from what I understand!).
I have attached the UK’s basic instructions ;but note these were per-ISIS.
I hope this helps.
Roger
crankextractorinstructions.pdf (84.4 KB)
Thanks again. According to the UPS tracking, I should get the cranks and puller today. I watched a couple of YOuTube videos on using a crank puller on bicycles. I assume it won’t be that much different for the unicycle.
pennies and dimes are iffy, if i remember correctly, they scratched the inside of the crank splines when i used them.
not good!
AAAArrrrgggggghhhh. They sent the cranks without the puller. I paid for the freakin puller. This is the third screwed up order. Now they are closed. I hope they will overnight it at their expense. I AM SO IRRITATED RIGHT NOW!!!
OMG, I’m so sorry! I have patience the size of a pea myself lol. I’m going nuts trying to take ONE day off since my leg muscle is sore. I’m not happy RESTING, what a nasty word! lol.
I sympathize. You could have them cancel the order and then pick up the puller locally. Most well equipped bike shops stock Park tools–just get the number for the part from UDC and call around. You should be able to get one tomorrow morning.
(If they only have a square taper puller, you can use a penny to block the hole and take off the crank. You will need an 8 mm Allen wrench to take out the bolt.)
Good luck. Let us know how it works out.
I’m going to have them ship it to me. I didn’t realize that you could use the same pullers used on bikes (shows my mechanical ignorance). I knew that bikes used them, but I thought there was something unique about unicycle cranks. Anyway, someone from the forum pm’d me. He lives fairly close and met me last night to help me swap out the cranks. THANKS CHROME! Now my 29er has 125/150’s and my 24 has the 137/167. I’m really anxious to try them out. Dang this having to work for a living thing. I won’t get to ride until tomorrow morning. Probably good to give my knees a break anyway.
Crank pulling on a schlumpf
So I’m bumping up this old thread as I have similar concerns
I just placed an order for my new spirit cranks, and a crank puller. Plus a new 2012 frame. Ill be putting them on my schlumpf
I was reading old search threads that mentioned a ring tool to be used when pulling the cranks off a schlumpf hub. With mine I got the small Allen key, the button holding tool and the crank setter bolt. But no ring
So I’m a little anxious about this job. Is there anything schlumpf specific I should be aware of. Or does it just work as is
I checked with UDC that it is a suitable crank puller. And
They said yes
I’ve never changed cranks and don’t know anyone else who has a schlumpf to ask. So I’m asking here
Thanks for any help
Crank puller
Sorry to hear of your trouble. In hindsight, it would be great to have a crank removal system as well thought out as the inserts in the older KH Onza cranks. They took no special tool and the threaded insert in the crank allowed you to back out the retaining bolt to push on the insert, backing the crank off as you did. It really was a brilliant setup. Both of my unis are set up that way and
I like them.