I have the same question but it will be my LBS swapping out the 150 Moment for 137 Spirit cranks on my geared 36er. I already warned them I would be requiring them to read the Schlumpf manual in its entirety. Bronson did not include a dedicated crank setter bolt when he built mine. Thanks for reminding me I need to order one of those as well.
The problem with the KH/Onza setup is that the inserts would get battered under MUni use; they would disappear, or get stuck in there. I’ve had to drill one out, and then it’s hard to get another one back in. And if you can’t get the insert in, the cranks are a major pain to remove.
It’s better to be using bike standards.
Don’t forget that the KH/Onza cranks have LEFT-HANDED extractor threads. So the insert caps are left-hand threaded. You can’t just remove the inserts and use a regular crank puller on these. I have a Campy left-handed puller that works if you’re local to Santa Cruz.
Hi, I need to pick up a crank puller to change cranks on my KH29. My LBS is asking what size. I guess there are several sizes…
a ISIS one. here is the number CCP-44 is the one i think.
The Park Tools CCP-44 will do it, and most bike mechanics would consider it the easier to use tool. I prefer the Park Tools CWP-7 tool. It comes with two tips, one for square-taper and one for splined (ISIS) cranks, so you need to be sure to install the larger tip or else you’ll damage the axle.
The problem with the CCP-44 is due to the shorter cranks we have on unicycles as compared to bikes. With shorter cranks, you’ll need to remove the pedal from the crank to make room to spin the handle. The CWP-7 is turned with a separate wrench, so no need to pull the pedal.
Either way. I’d stick with the Park Tools pullers. They have nice, tight, tolerances on the threads that go into the cranks, and when the cranks are on good, the Park Tools pullers are less likely to damage the extractor threads than cheaper brands. The most important part of pulling the cranks is to make sure that the puller is fully seated into the crank before you tighten the center pin. The best way to verify this is to confirm that you can turn the center pin back and forth freely after tightening the puller body into the crank. This verifies that the puller body stopped when it bottomed-out, and not when the center pin contacted the axle.
This of course assumes that you’re referring to the new style KH/ISIS hubs, and not the older KH/Onza design (if your cranks are steel, you have the older design; you can check with a magnet). The KH/Onza cranks have left-handed extractor threads, so if the built-in self-extractors are missing or damaged you’ll need a specialized left-handed crank puller to remove them (they exist; I have one).