Your opinion

Hokay,
To all super cool people out there, aka unicyclists, and even more superior ones, aka MUnicyclists,
which is what i am
I have bought a Qu-ax 24" MUni from unicycle.com, and all was fine, but i noticed, and this has been proven, that one of the fork blades is a few millimetres longer than the other
this results in the wheel being ever so slightly tilted, but it doesn’t affect riding, but because on that side there is less of a gap between the frame,
(actually only about a millimetre) between tire and blade
i have contacted the unicycle.com, and they have agreed to replace it after i post it back to New Zealand, but unfortunately this may cost a bit, and take a while
So here is a question to all of those skilled and knowledgeable riders on one wheel,
should i keep my Qu-ax as it is, while there are no problems, the only one that will probably surface over time is mud getting caught, in the tight space, or should i pay more and send it back ,for the sake of having a few millimetres between the frame and tire?
Please reply urgently, and reply to
silverfridge@hotmail.com
Cheers

Ben :thinking:

Have you tried to put the wheel in the other way? Does it lean the same, or hte other way?

If it leans the other way, it’s your wheel that’s non-true, not your frame, try this!
If it’s your wheel that’s off-centre, you can correct it with a spoke key, or have someone to do it for you (and unicycle.com should pay for it if they sent you an untrue wheel)…

If that’s not the case, replace the frame…
And I don’t think you whould pay for the postage for this switch, at all.

llberg speaks the truth about the wheel swap and it’s an easy test. But I disagree with his plan of adjusting all the spokes to retrue the wheel in an off center manner.

I can’t tell for sure but it looks as if it has maincap style bearing holders, the kind with two bolts that clamp each bearing to the frame. If so, shim the frame up on the short side to center the wheel temporarily until you get the new frame. Don’t mess with the wheel.

I was only refering to it it was the wheel that was off-centre…
If the wheel leans to the other side if you swap it, it is the wheel that’s off-centre, and it’s that that should be corrected.

of course not if it’s the frame that’s crooked.

English ain’t my mother-language, can be hard to express myself sometimes…

I learned this from Pete from our Seattle Area Riders group:

When high-production frames like the Quax are made, they are usually not allowed a gradual enough cooling period. This can (but not always) cause a slight warp. It’s pretty much a game of chance whether you will get a frame like that or not, but it looks like you did. I had a Semcycle longneck frame like that, but I replaced it with a Nimbus longneck and that worked great. But on the bright side, my Nimbus 29er, Nimbus X, Nimbus Longneck, and both of my Torker CXs are almost perfectly straight.

I see what ur saying, but i know for surre that it is the frame, i have had it checked by an engineer even,
so should i not worry about the few millimetres of space lacking from one side, or should i send it back, i am confused cos it has been disassembled ready to send back, but i really want to ride:D

Many unicycle frames are not exactly precision made. Some are out of alignment.

Two options you can check for before going through the time to send the frame back:

  1. Check the bearing caps that are welded to the frame. See if there is any weld splatter or other gunk preventing the bearing from fully seating in the bearing cap. If there is gunk in their obstructing the bearing then you can grind it off or file it off.

  2. Unicycle.com UK has a FAQ on how to straighten your frame. You can look at that and determine if it applies to your frame. A good bike shop should also have a fork straightening tool and measuring tools to check the frame. A good bike shop or a bike shop experienced with frame repairs could get the legs straight again if that’s the problem. Or you can try it yourself using the Unicycle.com UK FAQ. A bike should would possibly be able to do a better job.

A third option is to fashion a shim to fit in the bearing cap of the short leg if one leg is indeed longer than the other.

Just don’t over tighten the bearing holders once you do. Once you shim them, they’ll have a smaller internal diameter and there will no longer be an even amount of pressure applied to the bearings.

As a result, this can happen - Split open bearing casings! (although that wasn’t from shimmed bearing holders…they were too small to begin with)

Andrew