ying yang 24

Looking to get a 24" muni, the choice is nimbus muni or the ying yang. Anyone have any experience with it ?

looks like they may have hobbled this together to get rid of some old stock.
Opinions here for the best parts from each:

hub: standard nimbus hub is one piece, won’t develop a creek, and the wheel isn’t dished so you have a stronger wheel than the yin yang. If you want a disc brake you can add it by upgrading to spirit cranks, which I would recommend for muni anyway. I have never had a hub with aluminum flanges, so I can’t speak for that, but for muni I want the strongest I can get.

rim: yin yang has the KH rim that’s wider, thus more float, and overall holds up better to lower pressures. You may or may not notice a difference when riding. The KH rim is also lighter, but only marginally (140 grams) especially when considering the weight of the duro tire (1400-1500 grams)

Saddle: I prefer the KH freeride for muni, it’s the cushiest of the KH saddles, which on the road I find is too much padding, but when riding muni I find it’s perfect. Everybody is different here, but I think most would agree the KH saddle is a plus for the yin yang.

personally I find the hub is where the weakness is in the yin yang… that and that they didn’t spell yin correctly… (Was that intentional? Am I missing something?)

personally I would go with the nimbus muni, upgrade the saddle to the KH freeride or street, and the cranks to Spirits 127/150 and you come out to $470, $5 more than the yin yang. You have better cranks and can add your disc brake to those cranks if you want to upgrade later (with a d-brake adapter on either cycle)

So the normal nimbus muni seems to be the much better deal. You pay the difference of $5 for spirit cranks and end up with a stronger hub and better cranks. The thing you lose out on is the wide KH rim. Personally I think the pros of the standard nimbus outweigh that.

The standard Nimbus hub has welded on flanges, as opposed to the new KH hub, which is cold forged as a single piece, and final shaping is done via CNC. The Nimbus welded hub is still basically bulletproof and, as you say, will not develop creaks like the former press-fit hubs.

Thanks for the imfo. I much prefer the freeride saddle, as I changed out the zero for the freeride on my kh26 a few months ago.