Hey, my wheel is messed up. Thats the best way of putting it. It hits the
frame on the way around, only on the right side though.
See the problem is that Ive already trued it twice. So I dont think thats
the problem. I also took it out of the frame, took off the bearing
holders, and looked to see if anything was messed up there. I got nothing
out of it, so that might be the problem or it might not be.
One thing I did notice was that the hub seems not to be centered between
the frame. Theres 1/2 or so of an inch between the bearing holders and the
actuall start of the spokes on the left, but only 1/8 of an inch on the
right. Whats up with this? Is it just a manufacturing defect, or what?
One thing to note: I never had this problem with the stock 2.1" tire.
Now that Ive updated to an arrow 2.6" it is constantly messed up. I know
the unicycle fits the arrow fine, because it was working great for a
month or so.
It might be a bearing slipping on the axle. The bearings on a unicycle are
just press fit on the axle. If the tolerances aren’t just right, or if
there is enough force, a bearing can end up sliding away from the hub
flange and towards the crank.
From your description I’m guessing that is what has happened to you. It’s
not necessarily a manufacturing defect that causes this (but it can be).
Just a fact that muni and hard riding put tremendous forces on the
bearings. It’s happened to me on at least three of my unis.
Fixing it involves pulling the bearing off the hub, cleaning the hub to
make sure there is no grease and such contributing to the bearing sliding
on the axle. Then use Loctite on the hub when replacing the bearing.
I use Loctite high strength sleeve retainer (part no. 640) to secure the
bearings on the axle. Red permanent strength Loctite threadlocker might
also do the trick. But the sleeve retainer is designed specifically for
press fits so that’s what I use.
When replacing the bearing make sure that you don’t put any pressure on
the bearing seals or on the outer racing. Otherwise you can permanently
damage the bearing causing it to not spin smoothly. Press the bearing on
using only the inner racing. Use a short piece of pipe that just fits over
the axle and only contacts the bearing on the inner racing. Then use a
press or a hammer to press the bearing back on.
UnicycleSource sells a good bearing puller. But you can find the same
style bearing puller (or pulley puller) at most auto parts stores.
UnicycleSource also carries Loctite. Or you can also find Loctite at the
better stocked auto parts stores.
john_childs
>From: Nick Dangerously <pyrotechnick13@yahoo.com> > >hello, > >Hey, my wheel is messed up. Thats the best way of putting it. It hits the >frame on the way around, only on the right side though. > >See the problem is that Ive already trued it twice. So I dont think thats >the problem. I also took it out of the frame, took off the bearing >holders, and looked to see if anything was messed up there. I got nothing >out of it, so that might be the problem or it might not be. > >One thing I did notice was that the hub seems not to be centered >between the frame. Theres 1/2 or so of an inch between the bearing >holders and the actuall start of the spokes on the left, but only 1/8 >of an inch on the right. Whats up with this? Is it just a manufacturing >defect, or what? > >One thing to note: I never had this problem with the stock 2.1" tire. >Now that Ive updated to an arrow 2.6" it is constantly messed up. I know >the unicycle fits the arrow fine, because it was working great for a >month or so. > >Thanks > > > >===== >Nick Cegelka > >Pyrotechnick13@yahoo.com > >NickLikesFire AIM > >http://www.uni-psycho.cityslide.com
John “Loctite” Childs, I with my new MUni the nut on the split bearing
holder slowly works itself loose. As a result, the frame clicks to
slightly off center on the bearings under high stress (such as climbing a
steep slope with my hand pulling on the seat). So, what type of Loctite
should I use?
Thanks, Jeff
On Wed, 03 Oct 2001 21:39:02 -0700 “John Childs”
<john_childs@hotmail.com> writes: > It might be a bearing slipping on the axle. The bearings on a unicycle > are just press fit on the axle. If the tolerances aren’t just right, or > if there is enough force, a bearing can end up sliding away from the hub > flange and towards the crank. > > From your description I’m guessing that is what has happened to you. > It’s not necessarily a manufacturing defect that causes this (but it can > be). Just a fact that muni and hard riding put tremendous forces on the > bearings. It’s happened to me on at least three of my unis. > > Fixing it involves pulling the bearing off the hub, cleaning the hub to > make sure there is no grease and such contributing to the bearing > sliding on the axle. Then use Loctite on the hub when replacing the > bearing. > > I use Loctite high strength sleeve retainer (part no. 640) to secure the > bearings on the axle. Red permanent strength Loctite threadlocker might > also do the trick. But the sleeve retainer is designed specifically for > press fits so that’s what I use. > > When replacing the bearing make sure that you don’t put any pressure on > the bearing seals or on the outer racing. Otherwise you can permanently > damage the bearing causing it to not spin smoothly. Press the bearing on > using only the inner racing. Use a short piece of pipe that just fits > over the axle and only contacts the bearing on the inner racing. Then > use a press or a hammer to press the bearing back on. > > UnicycleSource sells a good bearing puller. But you can find the same > style bearing puller (or pulley puller) at most auto parts stores. > UnicycleSource also carries Loctite. Or you can also find Loctite at the > better stocked auto parts stores. > > john_childs
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Those bolts come loose on me too so they deserve some Loctite. Red
permanent Loctite would be overkill for the bearing holder bolts. Use a
removable strength threadlocker like the blue Loctite 242 on those bolts.
You can also use clear nail polish to keep small nuts and bolts from
coming loose. It’s lower strength than the Loctite, but still adequate to
keep a bolt from getting loose due to vibration. I used to do a lot of
bicycling and I used clear nail polish to keep the water bottle cage bolts
from getting loose and also to keep the cleat bolts on my cycling shoes
from getting loose. It works.
john_childs
>From: jeff d tuttle <moosebreath1@juno.com> > >John “Loctite” Childs, I with my new MUni the nut on the split bearing >holder slowly works itself loose. As a result, the frame clicks to >slightly off center on the bearings under high stress (such as climbing a >steep slope with my hand pulling on the seat). So, what type of Loctite >should I use? > >Thanks, Jeff >
In article <20011004025113.50623.qmail@web9404.mail.yahoo.com>, pyrotechnick13@yahoo.com (Nick Dangerously) writes: > > One thing to note: I never had this problem with the stock 2.1" tire. > Now that Ive updated to an arrow 2.6" it is constantly messed up. I know > the unicycle fits the arrow fine, because it was working great for a > month or so. >
I have the same problem with my Miyata. I wore the old tire down to the
threads and had to replace it. The only blue tire I could find (I wanted
it to match okay?) was a Kenda Kikzumbut that was
2.75" versus the old 2.25. It just barely fits in the frame. After leaving
it pumped it up to the pressure I want to use for a few days, it
developed a distinct bulge at a couple of points. I wound up having to
let some air out so the wheel could turn. The tire is for a kid’s BMX
bike and not rated for the pressure I want to run in it. In my case,
it’s all the tire - the rim is true.
So, to follow up, does anyone know where to get a 2.25 x 20" blue
road tire?
============================================================
Gardner Buchanan <gbuchana@home.com> Ottawa, ON FreeBSD: Where you want to
go. Today.
Primo “The Wall” is a good freestyle or street tire. Comes in red, white,
blue, or black. Sizes are 20x1.85 and 20x2.1 The colored tires are safe
for indoor use (they will not mark the floor). I use the 2.1" on my
freestyle uni.
If you have a newer Miyata with a skinny fork the 2.1" tire will not fit,
you’ll have to use the 1.85". If you have an older Miyata with a wider
fork then the 2.1" should fit.
john_childs
“Gardner Buchanan” <gardner@gromit.dhs.org> wrote in message news:Nx2C7.100973$5h5.40699392@news3.rdc2.on.home.com… > > I have the same problem with my Miyata. I wore the old tire down to the > threads and had to replace it. The only blue tire I could find (I wanted > it to match okay?) was a Kenda Kikzumbut that was > 2.75" versus the old 2.25. It just barely fits in the frame. After > leaving it pumped it up to the pressure I want to use for a few days, > it developed a distinct bulge at a couple of points. I wound up having > to let some air out so the wheel could turn. The tire is for a kid’s > BMX bike and not rated for the pressure I want to run in it. In my > case, it’s all the tire - the rim is true. > > So, to follow up, does anyone know where to get a 2.25 x 20" blue > road tire? > > ============================================================ > Gardner Buchanan <gbuchana@home.com> Ottawa, ON FreeBSD: Where you want > to go. Today.
I’ve missed (or rather lost) the start of this thread but picked up on
the blue tyre thang… so if blue’s your colour you can get Primo “The
Wall” tyres in blue up to 2.1 in width. Real nice they are too. Also,
if you’ve got a MUni and want to keep the blue thing going then Nokian
do a couple of
26x2.1 tyres:
> to the threads and had to replace it. The only blue tire I could find (I > wanted it to match okay?) was a Kenda Kikzumbut that was > 2.75" versus the old 2.25. It just barely fits in the frame. After > leaving it pumped it up to the pressure I want to use for a few days, > it developed a distinct bulge at a couple of points. I
Just like the old Schwinns, 1.75" does not equal 1 3/4". For whatever
screwy bicycle industry reasons, these are two different, non-compatible
tire sizes.
I’m not sure if this is a consistent fraction vs. decimal rule, or how it
works, so use caution. The fractional-type tire size is pretty dated, and
I think now only found on low-end or old wheels. Bike shop people should
be able to help make sure your sizes will match.
> to the threads and had to replace it. The only blue tire I could find (I > wanted it to match okay?) was a Kenda Kikzumbut that was > 2.75" versus the old 2.25. It just barely fits in the frame. After > leaving it pumped it up to the pressure I want to use for a few days, > it developed a distinct bulge at a couple of points. I
Just like the old Schwinns, 1.75" does not equal 1 3/4". For whatever
screwy bicycle industry reasons, these are two different, non-compatible
tire sizes.
I’m not sure if this is a consistent fraction vs. decimal rule, or how it
works, so use caution. The fractional-type tire size is pretty dated, and
I think now only found on low-end or old wheels. Bike shop people should
be able to help make sure your sizes will match.
> to the threads and had to replace it. The only blue tire I could find (I > wanted it to match okay?) was a Kenda Kikzumbut that was > 2.75" versus the old 2.25. It just barely fits in the frame. After > leaving it pumped it up to the pressure I want to use for a few days, > it developed a distinct bulge at a couple of points. I
Just like the old Schwinns, 1.75" does not equal 1 3/4". For whatever
screwy bicycle industry reasons, these are two different, non-compatible
tire sizes.
I’m not sure if this is a consistent fraction vs. decimal rule, or how it
works, so use caution. The fractional-type tire size is pretty dated, and
I think now only found on low-end or old wheels. Bike shop people should
be able to help make sure your sizes will match.
> to the threads and had to replace it. The only blue tire I could find (I > wanted it to match okay?) was a Kenda Kikzumbut that was > 2.75" versus the old 2.25. It just barely fits in the frame. After > leaving it pumped it up to the pressure I want to use for a few days, > it developed a distinct bulge at a couple of points. I
Just like the old Schwinns, 1.75" does not equal 1 3/4". For whatever
screwy bicycle industry reasons, these are two different, non-compatible
tire sizes.
I’m not sure if this is a consistent fraction vs. decimal rule, or how it
works, so use caution. The fractional-type tire size is pretty dated, and
I think now only found on low-end or old wheels. Bike shop people should
be able to help make sure your sizes will match.