For a few weeks I have been playing around with extra wheight on my free wrist to see what that does to balancing. I startet with ca. 300g atached to my wristguard, which seemed to smooth my hectic and nervous flapping with the free arm.
Then I tested 500g, and this weekend I went with 1 kg wrapped around the wrist. I quite liked it, I will be continuing to practice that way.
Has anyone else done that?
So far I have done two hours riding this way at most, and for sore muscles, I dont notice the extra wheight that way. Besides, my arms had some paddling this summer, so basic strength is ok, but still I’m surprised not to notice increased effort at all.
Also, thinking about trial (which I’m not much into so far), having more mass on my free arm I would expect to increase momentum when jumping, so it might be easier to reach a given height.
I agree, it makes sense that added weight at the right place and time can be a benefit.
I don’t do it all the time but I have added weight in my free hand for a boost up on my 36er and more effective tight turns. In this video (first without a weight) I added 10lbs (4.5kg) in my free hand. When doing a rolling free mount with the weight stepping/jumping up was very very easy because of the added weight being thrown up and forward in my free hand.
For normal road riding an added weight would not be an advantage for me because I keep both hands on the handlebar. But I’d guess that on a long tiring where someone was having a problem mounting a 36er, an added rock or other weight in the free hand could give an added boost and then discarded after mounted.
A few weeks ago, I decided to go on a ride without my hydration pack on my back, and carry a half-liter bottle of water in one hand, as I did not plan to ride far.
I was surprised to find that in some ways it seemed easier to ride. I found that my hand not holding the water naturally ended up closer to my body (maybe to balance the weight of the water?). I then tried to ride with my free hand on the saddle handle, which I had not previously mastered. I found that the half-liter bottle of water added weight to my “balance arm”, which I then started slinging around all over the place to keep my balance.
Somehow, that water bottle taught me to balance while counteracting the additional weight, and that skill transferred to learning to ride while holding the saddle handle.
In the last two weeks, I have realized that I now seem to be a better rider WHILE HOLDING the saddle, as opposed letting both hands serve as flailing balance aids.
After watching the videos by @finnspin, I realized why this might be.
Now, I can hold the saddle handle in one hand, and the retractable dog leash in the other, while periodically letting go of the saddle handle to correct.
While riding Muni, I don’t have a hand preference. I let my balance (or lack of balance) dictate which hand holds the saddle. While riding Muni, I constantly switch hands holding the saddle.
I think riding with the water bottle in one hand made a huge difference in my riding.
This is the game changer I’m ready for.
I found a website where the Castelli Free Aero RC bib short is on sale.
Looking forward to road riding comfort and not having to consistently “rearrange” my garments during rides.
The benefit I’m hoping for is that the fabric is constantly stretched tight in the transition area from leg to groin, and there are no irritation from seams there.
I tried “speedos” swim wear” (similar to Atheletic supporter - in form) and it was not good.
I’ve tried boxer underwear and it bunches up at the “transition” area - no good.
I primarily ride my KH36 with aero bars where my elbows are in line with the front of the wheel. I’m able to slide my backside right back to the back of the KH Fusion one seat (angled max forward down). When in the “sweet spot” , I am only seated on two butt bones… back is at 30 deg to horizontal.
So I think I am practically in a bicycling position re: seat support.
Thanks again Robin.
I had a rummage through my spare bike bits and found two bar ends, so with a little bit of cutting put one on for the brake and it was a game changer on this morning’s ride having the brake so comfortably close to my left hand.
Later I decided to add the second for bump protection. Presently I’m using a tennis ball on it but I plan to nick one of my son’s bouncy balls.
Time will tell whether this recently-acquired b*ke-stand is a game-changer, but after using it a bit yesterday, I believe it is going to make changing tubes and tires much easier. If I knew how to true a wheel, it might also help with that.
Adjusting the saddle to get it perfectly lined up with the tire still seems easier with the tire resting on the ground, but I expect this stand to enable me to repair punctured tubes quickly, rather than overlooking the problem and simply adding air each time I ride.
It seems that every time I ride Muni with a tube that holds air, the tube magically leaks the following day. Thorns, while not all of them as aggressive as these, are the culprit.
It’s honestly just what I’m used to and don’t mind carrying a tube and not purchasing another multi tool for bacon strips. There’s other things like new saddles I’d rather get first.
It’s on the list but keeps getting bumped as a $6 tube vs the start up cost of tubeless is easier in the moment.
A trick I learned at the bike shop when working there for a summer was to try and align the brake with a light source behind it.
So my kitchen floor is bright contrast against the dark black brake. So I’ll have a sight line that I can see down the brake with the gaps on the sides of the rotor letting in light and the floor being bright contrast.
Next step is just rotate the wheel to find where it making noise, and slowly bring that section through to see where it rubs the pad. You’re not spinning it super fast but not very slow either. Mostly enough just to see what side the rubbing is.
I like to stand when working on it so I usually set the Unicycle horizontal in the stand with the frame and everything at chest level to see down the brake well.
The light source is the key. I use a wide flashlight. The second tip is to tighten one of the two bolts on the break , while only manipulating only the other one. That gets you most of the way there, and you can fine tune from there. Its easier to demonstrate than explain in text. There is a good tutorial video that I followed, and now I have no problem aligning the rotor.
I have been wondering about a racquetball… very similar to a tennis ball, but without the fuzz, and hopefully stays cleaner/nicer looking without that, especially in mud. They have green ones too, which might match acceptably well with the “racing green” on the nimbus 27.5’s. (And of course normal blue for the 29!)
