What to buy

General
1

Forwarded message:
>From: uunet!dorite.use.com!darwin (Darwin Teague) To:
>uunet!mcs.kent.edu!unicycling Subject: Re: what to buy? Lines: 19 Content-Type:
>text Content-Length: 884
>
>On Thu, 2 Mar 1995 14:56:21 -0500 (EST) in Newsgroup: Email you wrote:
>: A simple word of advice to anyone wanting to buy a unicycle:
>
>: Do NOT buy a unicycle from a bicycle shop. Do NOT, do NOT, do NOT!!!
>
>: You will simply be throwing your money away. All unicycles sold in bike
>: stores are made by bicycle manufacturers who don’t know the first thing about
>: building a solid unicycle.
>
>: Even if you only want it for a little recreation, buy a decent unicycle. I
>: recommend Semcycle, but miyata and some others are good too. Don’t buy a
>: norco!!!
>
>How much are Semcycles and Miyatas? I’m looking for a 24". I’ll probably buy
>this used one to get started and save for a good one.

Semcycles are $150-$200 depending on the model. Miyatas are generally over $200
if you can find them. I just bought a 20" from Canada, and it was $275 by the
time postage, a foreign draft, etc. were added in. I bought the Miyata because I
wanted the best, but if money is a factor at all then buy a Semcycle.

BTW, I’ll agree with the comment made in another message that Schwinn’s are a
good brand from a bike company. I have two of them, and they are each 15 years
old. They still work great. Unfortunately Schwinn is out of the uni business, so
I would agree with the bike shop comment for current brands.

Beirne

–

Beirne Konarski | Reading maketh a full man, conference a beirnek@summitis.com |
ready man, and writing an exact man. “Untouched by Scandal” | – Francis Bacon

2

Re: What to buy

: >: A simple word of advice to anyone wanting to buy a unicycle:
: >
: >: Do NOT buy a unicycle from a bicycle shop. Do NOT, do NOT, do NOT!!!
: >
: >: You will simply be throwing your money away. All unicycles sold in bike
: >: stores are made by bicycle manufacturers who don’t know the first thing
: >: about building a solid unicycle.
: >
: >: Even if you only want it for a little recreation, buy a decent unicycle. I
: >: recommend Semcycle, but miyata and some others are good too. Don’t buy a
: >: norco!!!
: >
: >How much are Semcycles and Miyatas? I’m looking for a 24". I’ll probably buy
: >this used one to get started and save for a good one.

: Semcycles are $150-$200 depending on the model. Miyatas are generally over
: $200 if you can find them. I just bought a 20" from Canada, and it was $275 by
: the time postage, a foreign draft, etc. were added in. I bought the Miyata
: because I wanted the best, but if money is a factor at all then buy a
: Semcycle.

Well, I bought the used one (a Quentin). I couldn’t pass it up for $60. I
recently lost all my overtime at work, so I can’t afford a new one right now. To
my untrained eye, it seems to be pretty solidly built.The bearings look pretty
good and they slide up into the tubular fork with 2 bolts holding them in place.
The seat doesn’t seem to be the best. The spokes are thicker than normal bicycle
spokes, but each spoke only crosses one other spoke. BTW, I’ve ordered a
Semcycle catalog. I’ll save up for one of these.

Now I’ll have to see how much I remember. I haven’t ridden in almost 20 years.
The last time I did (after a 2 or 3 year absence), it caused me lots of pain.
I’ll keep everyone posted on my progress.

Dishheads, dishheads, roly poly dishheads!

3

Re: what to buy

Jeff, i rode a Schwinn for 18 years before buying another brand. I would have
ridden the same cycle but it was stolen after 8 years. & cost twice as much the
next time i had to buy one. My hub broke after 10 yrs. Because it was a lifetime
guarantee @the time it didn’t cost anything to replace it!

I learned most skills on the 24" (i’m one of the few that ride one); IMO learned
wheel walking is easier on a 24" cause there’s more surface area. I only bought
a miyata because once I started spinning it was light weight & allowed me spin
faster. Otherwise, the major downside is that I seemed to break spokes easily.
Once that happened, because there is VERY little space between the fork & tire
on a miyata, the tire would rub against the fork & i was finished practicing
until I paid $30 to get it trued & found a store that cuts spokes (not all have
this tool).

uni-versally yours, unicycle lady http://users.aol.com/unilady/

In a message dated 9/11/0 7:36:32 AM, lutkus@hotmail.com wrote:

>I’ve been unicycling for nearly a year now, and I think it’s time for a new
>uni, and I’m trying to figure out what I should get. I’ve got a 24"
>Schwinn, and a 26" homemade. I’m somewhere between a level 2 and 3
>unicyclist at the moment.
>
>I figure 20" is the way to go for learning tricks, and such. Everybody and
>their brother has told me Miyata is the way to go, and they’re probably right.
>I’d just like to hear what the pro’s and con’s are of the major brands are.
>
>I’ve been working on climbing stairs, and such, and will probably continue with
>that, so I don’t know how much of an issue wheel strength is. I’ve got the
>one-footed idle down, and am working on one-footed riding, and hopefully
>gliding some time soon, so I’m sure a flat crown would be most helpful.
>
>I guess at this point, I’ve really been looking between the Semcycle XL, and
>Miyata standard. I found it an interesting feature that the semcycle xl
>could be expanded to 2 wheels, though, I don’t know how far off I’d be from
>trying that.
>
>I appreciate any advice, and further description anyone can give me about the
>various mid to high end unicycles out there.
>
>-jeff lutkus

4

Re: what to buy

>I’d like to hear about your homemade 26".

ok, well, somewhat interesting story about how I got into unicycling in the
first place…

I had this no-name old mountain bike, and I’d ride it around campus as a mode of
transportation. Anyway, one night, (and here’s why you should always wear a
helmit, kids) I was riding home, and found myself in a ditch that was quite a
bit deeper and steeper than I’d expected. I went to sleep after I got home from
the hospital, but when I woke up, I went out to find that bike of mine.

The front wheel was no longer very round, the frame was bent in several ways
that would not make riding very possible. However, the rear wheel and fork were
just fine.

A friend of mine owned a unicycle, and I’d tried riding it once or twice – that
was enough for me to decide what I had to do with the remains of my bike. With
the help of Jack Wiley’s unicycle building book, I got a few ideas of how to
connect all the parts to make an actually rideable unicycle.

Here’s a site I slapped together some time last year. It includes a few
low-quality pictures. http://www.rit.edu/~jvl2957/unicycle/build.html

Basically, all I had to do was get a unicycle hub, re-spoke the wheel with said
hub. I lucked out and found some bearings that also fit on the already drilled
holes in the fork of my bike. Then I just attached some crank arms and pedals,
drilled a hole on the top of the fork so I could bolt a schwinn seat in place,
and instant unicycle.

It looks a little odd with the bent bicycle fork and all, but it rides just
fine. (some people told me you need a straight fork, and I’d have thought so
too, but riding a bent fork doesn’t feel any different)

As for the durability, I have no idea how will this unicycle will hold up. I am
sure the 20-something year old schwinn I got off e-bay will outlive this
homemade variant, but it was still fun.

I loaned it out to a friend while I went home for the summer. When I left, I was
pretty weak at riding, but now I’ve gotten comfortable with the off-road stuff,
so I’ll have to see if the thing’s still got any mountain bike left in it.

I guess that’s about it. I’d be happy to answer any building/fixing questions
anyone may have… I learned quite a bit in the process of disassembling, and
re-configuring these parts, though, I’m far from being an expert when it comes
to strength, and building something that will put up with the punishment some
people can give these things.

jeff lutkus

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5

RE: what to buy

> Here’s a site I slapped together some time last year. It includes a few
> low-quality pictures. http://www.rit.edu/~jvl2957/unicycle/build.html

The pictures are fine. Very detailed, they show exactly what they’re
supposed to.

> fine. (some people told me you need a straight fork, and I’d have thought so
> too, but riding a bent fork doesn’t feel any different)

The true test would be to turn the fram around and ride it the other way. If you
can’t feel any difference, it doesn’t matter. And it shouldn’t, unless you’re
into really high-end moves like spins or stuff flying in the air…

Stay on top, John Foss, the Uni-Cyclone http://www.unicycling.com

“Dirt: it’s not just for breakfast anymore.” - MUni Weekend 2000 T-shirt (idea
by Jacquie)

6

Re: what to buy

That’s a cool unicycle. I love how the Miyata bearing holders just happened to
fit. What luck!

The curved fork shouldn’t make any practical difference for regular riding. The
Telford (see http://www.telford-design.com ) doesn’t have a straight fork and it
rides really really well.

Instead of using two left cranks you can use tandem bike cranks. Use the left
crank from the captain (front rider) and the right crank from the stoker (rear
rider). You will end up with a matched pair and no chainring spiders. Or you can
use a regular right crank and grind off the spider. Using two left cranks isn’t
ideal because the “right” pedal will want to work its way loose.

john_childs

>From: “Jeff Lutkus”

>>I’d like to hear about your homemade 26".

[snip]

>A friend of mine owned a unicycle, and I’d tried riding it once or twice –
>that was enough for me to decide what I had to do with the remains of my bike.
>With the help of Jack Wiley’s unicycle building book, I got a few ideas of how
>to connect all the parts to make an actually rideable unicycle.
>
>Here’s a site I slapped together some time last year. It includes a few
>low-quality pictures. http://www.rit.edu/~jvl2957/unicycle/build.html

[snip]

>jeff lutkus

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7

Re: what to buy

The Miyata standard is a better freestyle uni than the Semcycle XL. I’d go with
the Miyata. It sounds like you’re going to be serious about this unicycling
stuff so you might as well get a good uni.

The Miyata is a good uni but it can use a little help in making it even better.
If you’re bigger than a young grade school student you will probably want a
longer neck on it so you won’t have to use the seatpost extension. Osell’s
Bicycle/Unicycle Shop in Minnesota can customize the Miyata with a longer neck.
The customized Miyata makes for a sharp looking uni and the longer neck is just
plain better.

Contact info for Osell’s is 612.788.5200 I think Paul Wyganowski is the guy who
does the uni customizations. Someone from the Minneapolis area could give you
more info about Osell’s if you’re interested in this route.

Paul Wyganowski also makes a totally custom freestyle frame. It’s the
ultimate in high-end for freestyle unicycles. Cost for this one gets into the
$400+ range.

Here’s an old message from Dustin Kelm and Andy Cotter about the
Wyganowski frame:

[begin quoted message]

From: unicycledk@aol.comBICYCLE (dustin kelm) Subject: Re: Review on Osell’s
Unicycle Frame

Here’s some technical details and revisions I would like to add to Andy’s
excellent review:

-The credit for these frames should go to Paul Wyganowski. Paul works at Osell’s
bike shop, but he builds the frames independantly in his own shop. He does
acquire some materials from Terry Osell.

-The tubing on the Wyganowski Frame is heat treated 4130 chromoly steartube and
oversize tandem fork blades.

-The fork crown is a machined Columbus two plate. The two plates allow two
insertion and welding points for the fork blades creating a stronger more rigid
frame. Miyata’s and Semcycle XL’s use crowns that are stamped out of sheet
metal. Paul has told me that the difference in production cost of a stamped vs
machined crown is about $6 vs $40, that should give you a little idea about the
difference in quality.

-Paul uses Miyata bearing mounts. I have one Wyganowski Frame with with the old
style Miyata bearing holder fitted to a Semcycle NK hub (the first uni frame
that Paul ever built.) My other Wyganowski Frame has hardened steel dropouts
that are tapped to accept the new style Miyata bearing holders. This one is
built with a Suzue hub. When ordering make sure you specify the bearing mounts
and hub that you will be using because the widths are different on these hubs.

-Andy mentioned the GT seat clamp and I believe he’s referring to the double
bolt model. This is the best clamp that I’ve ever used. I recently removed the
“permanent” clamps on my Miyata frames and put on GT double bolt clamps. The
beauty of these clamps is that half of the clamp is machined to clamp over the
seat tube and the top half clamps down on the seat post. In the two and a half
years that I have used these clamps I’ve had a seat come out of adjustment only
once that I can remember. My allen key is getting very lonely.

-Another benifit of having a Wyganowski Frame is service. Paul takes his
work personally and it has been my experience that Paul wants each frame to
be perfect.

-Besides Andy and I, here’s some others you may have heard of that are enjoying
their Wyganowski Frames: Kristen Donohoo, 1999 US Women’s National Champion;
Yuichiro Kato (Japan), 1996 World Champion; Christian Hoverath (Germany), 1999
Individual National Champion (I’m not sure of the exact title.)

Paul can be reached through Osell’s or directly. (try Osell’s first) Paul’s card
reads as follows: Wyganowski Frames St. Paul MN 651-772-2861 Custom Crafted
Framesets Tandem & Singles All Styles Full Service, Wheel Building Frame Repair
& Modifications 753 Certified

cotter@skypoint.com (Andy Cotter) writes:

>Chris Cline is working on a unicycle database and asked me to do a review on
>the Osell’s custom frame for 20" unicycles. I have just received my first 20"
>custom frame from Osell’s and am really happy with it. My main artistic
>unicycle before the Osell’s frame was a Miyata standard frame with an extended
>seat post (and a few other modifications). The Osell’s frame utilizes the
>Miyata bearing holders so it can replace the existing Miyata frame.
>
>Here the reasons that I think the Osell’s frame is superior to my previous
>Miyata standard frame:
>* The frame is stiffer then a Miyata. I wouldn’t think this would be a factor
> in a frame but the Osell’s unicycle feels more responsive.
>* The flat crown on the frame is slightly bigger and the corners are not so
> rounded. This really makes a difference when doing lots of stand up skills.
> The extra surface area can help save the foot from being fatigued when doing
> such skills as stand up wheel walk for a long time.
>* The crown is lower to the wheel than the Miyata frame. Reducing the clearance
> between the wheel and the frame has benefits on skills that rely on having a
> foot on the frame. While I don’t feel any difference in the one foot skills,
> the harder skills and skills that involve both feet on the frame feel easier
> (such as coasting and gliding with both feet on the frame).
>* The frame is designed for my height. The GT seat clamp is right under the
> seat. Even though I had a low profile clamp on my Miyata, I still would get
> scrapped from it. With Osell’s frame the clamp under the seat and I would
> really have to try to hit it. Having no clamp in the middle of my frame makes
> it a lot easier to do the skill seat in front freehanded.
>
>I called Osell’s for some prices. Of course, the standard disclaimer applies
>in that prices and times are subject to change. Here is the cost of the
>frame with some different finishing options. The time after each option is
>the delivery time. $175 bare (one week) $220 one color (two weeks) $260 two
>color frame (with a fade or other options) (two weeks) $300 chrome. (They
>have just switched chroming places so time and money could change on this)
>(1 to 2 months)
>
>If you wanted a complete unicycle, the rest of the unicycle is $216 to $246
>depending on rim quality. So, for a frame with one color finish and high
>quality rim, the price would be $468.
>
>While the Osell’s custom frame is not a beginner item, it is something to
>consider if you spend lots of time on your standard unicycle.
>
>Osell’s also makes custom 28" unicycles and custom two-wheeled unicycles. If
>you have questions give them a call at 612.788.5200. Osell’s is located in St.
>Anthony, Minnesota (very near to Minneapolis).
>
>-Andy
>
>PS. Have a good Christmas and hopefully all those packages under the tree are
> either unicycles or are really cool unicycle parts.
>

keep on trying, dustin klem unicycling productions www.dustin.kelm.com

(remove the BICYCLE from the above address to send me your brain waves)

isa 40:29-31

[end of quoted message]

From: “Jeff Lutkus” <lutkus@hotmail.com>
>I’ve been unicycling for nearly a year now, and I think it’s time for a new
>uni, and I’m trying to figure out what I should get. I’ve got a 24"
>Schwinn, and a 26" homemade. I’m somewhere between a level 2 and 3
>unicyclist at the moment.
>
>I figure 20" is the way to go for learning tricks, and such. Everybody and
>their brother has told me Miyata is the way to go, and they’re probably right.
>I’d just like to hear what the pro’s and con’s are of the major brands are.
>
>I’ve been working on climbing stairs, and such, and will probably continue with
>that, so I don’t know how much of an issue wheel strength is. I’ve got the
>one-footed idle down, and am working on one-footed riding, and hopefully
>gliding some time soon, so I’m sure a flat crown would be most helpful.
>
>I guess at this point, I’ve really been looking between the Semcycle XL, and
>Miyata standard. I found it an interesting feature that the semcycle xl
>could be expanded to 2 wheels, though, I don’t know how far off I’d be from
>trying that.
>
>I appreciate any advice, and further description anyone can give me about the
>various mid to high end unicycles out there.
>
>-jeff lutkus
>______________________________________________________________________

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8

Re: what to buy

From: “Michael Fuhrmann”
>
>Why is the longer neck “just plain better”?

Trust me, it’s just better. :slight_smile:

The Miyata has a short neck and the seatpost is only 11" long. To get the seat
up high enough for a non-short rider you have three choices:

  1. Use one or more Miyata seatpost extensions
  2. Get a longer seatpost custom made
  3. Get a longer neck custom made

The seatpost extensions suck. They don’t clamp very well, they put extra bolts
in the way of your legs, and they don’t look good. The extension that I got had
weld splatter inside of it and had a very rough seam inside of it. I had to file
out the weld splatter and file down the seam. And after all that it still didn’t
clamp well. The inside of the extension (and the neck of the uni) should be
machined out if there is any hope of it clamping well but Miyata doesn’t do
that. In short the extension is a piece of junk.

A custom seatpost is expensive especially if you want it chromed. When I looked
into getting a custom seatpost made and chromed it was well over $100. You might
be able to get it done for less but in general it’s expensive and it’s not easy
to find someone to do it for you.

The longer neck looks good and clamps well. With a double pinch-bolt BMX clamp
the seat ain’t gonna twist around on you. The longer custom neck just makes the
most sense and you end up with a better quality uni out of the deal. It’s a win
win no brainer. I’m not sure of the cost for the custom neck. You’ll have to
call Osell’s to find out how much it would be.

The Miyata is a good uni demonstrated by the fact that they are the most popular
uni by far at the US national convention. But a lot of them are customized with
longer necks, upgraded clamps, etc.

john_childs

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9

RE: what to buy

> Why is the longer neck “just plain better”?

If you don’t do tricks it may not matter, but after having your lower leg gouged
the 50th time by a bolt that doesn’t need to be there…

John Foss, the Uni-Cyclone http://www.unicycling.com

“Dirt: it’s not just for breakfast anymore.” - MUni Weekend 2000 T-shirt (idea
by Jacquie)

10

Re: what to buy

I saw the Osell’s modified Miyatas when I was at NUC 99. They look good and it
is quality work. I’m not sure how the mod is done. It looked like the entire
neck was replaced. Someone who has one could give a better description. The ones
I saw were all chromed. I assume it would be possible to get it painted to match
a painted Miyata.

In short, it’s a most excellent mod and if I had a Miyata of my own I would
definately get it done.

I would assume that a good frame builder in your local area could also do the
same mod. But Osell’s already has the experience and they know unicycles.

john_childs

From: Rick Bissell
>
>>The Miyata has a short neck and the seatpost is only 11" long. To get the seat
>>up high enough for a non-short rider you have three choices:
>>
>> 3. Get a longer neck custom made
>
>Having never seen one of Osells’ mods, I’m curious how they extend the neck. Is
>the tube cut off above the fork crown and the longer neck welded there? Or is
>the neck extended by welding a tube on top of the existing neck? Is the neck
>then painted green or chromed to match the rest of the unicycle?
>
>-Rick
>

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11

Re: [Re: what to buy]

“John Childs” <john_childs@hotmail.com> wrote: I saw the Osell’s modified
Miyatas when I was at NUC 99. They look good and it is quality work. I’m not
sure how the mod is done. It looked like the entire neck was replaced. Someone
who has one could give a better description. The ones I saw were all chromed. I
assume it would be possible to get it painted to match a painted Miyata.

They modify it by drilling out the entire steer tube and replacing it with a new
longer one, cut to whatever length you desire. The paint job is of course
destroyed in this process.

I think it is then sand blasted or similar to remove the old paint job and you
can have it either painted or chromed. Mine is a nice shiny metalic blue. It is
well worth it to have no quick releases in your legs. Things like stand up wheel
walking are a lot less painfull.

Its not too much more expensive to get a custome frame though (especially if you
get your frame painted rather than chromed). With all the modifications I got
done I could have just forked out an extra $50 and got the custom frame instead.
Paint jobs give a more individual look but won’t stand up too as much
punishment. IE the paint will chip if you knock it against something metal.

o o Peter Bier o O o Juggler, unicyclist and mathematician.
o/|\o peter_bier@usa.net

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12

Re: [Re: what to buy]

Hmmm… If the Miyata extendo neck mod ends up costing almost as much as a
painted Wyganowski frame then the Miyata mod doesn’t make as much sense. But you
could skimp a bit on the Miyata mod and get it painted rather than chromed the
mod would be a better deal.

If the neck mod is too expensive then maybe a deluxe seatpost extension would be
a good alternative. It is possible to design a much better extension than the
crummy stock Miyata extension. Something that is actually machined and with
recessed pinch bolts would be a big improvement. If it was painted rather than
chromed it should be quite reasonable. The Fleet mini-giraffe has a neat
seatpost extension. Something similar to that design would work. Anything would
be better than the stock extension.

john_childs

From: Peter Bier <peter_bier@usa.net>
>“John Childs” <john_childs@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>I saw the Osell’s modified Miyatas when I was at NUC 99. They look good and it
>>is quality work. I’m not sure how the mod is done. It looked like the entire
>>neck was replaced. Someone who has one could give a better description. The
>>ones I saw were all chromed. I assume it would be possible to get it painted
>>to match a painted Miyata.
>
>They modify it by drilling out the entire steer tube and replacing it with a
>new longer one, cut to whatever length you desire. The paint job is of course
>destroyed in this process.
>
>I think it is then sand blasted or similar to remove the old paint job and you
>can have it either painted or chromed. Mine is a nice shiny metalic blue. It is
>well worth it to have no quick releases in your legs. Things like stand up
>wheel walking are a lot less painfull.
>
>Its not too much more expensive to get a custome frame though (especially if
>you get your frame painted rather than chromed). With all the modifications I
>got done I could have just forked out an extra $50 and got the custom frame
>instead. Paint jobs give a more individual look but won’t stand up too as much
>punishment. IE the paint will chip if you knock it against something metal.
>
>
>
> o o Peter Bier o O o Juggler, unicyclist and mathematician.
>o/|\o peter_bier@usa.net
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=1

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13

Re: [Re: what to buy]

That’s a good deal. So the decision is easy – get a Miyata and a custom
seatpost from Tom Miller.

john_childs

From: maxfieldd@aol.com (Maxfield D)
>
>A very simple modification–I had Tom Miller at the unicycle factory
>(765-452-2692)make me a longer seatpost–one that doesn’t need any kind of
>extension. Of course, it can’t be lowered to the heights of normal people. I
>still have my old Miyata post for those folks.
>
>I seem to recall that Tommy charged me $50 or so.
>
>David Maxfield Bainbridge Island, WA
>
>

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14

Re: what to buy

Jeff,

You’re one cool dude. Have you figured out if you can fit a fat tire in it yet?

The frame looks very cool like that. Turning it asround would certainly change
the seat angle, and would give it a different look. But I like my seats angled
up a little.

Chris Reeder

John Foss wrote:

> The true test would be to turn the fram around and ride it the other way. If
> you can’t feel any difference, it doesn’t matter. And it shouldn’t, unless
> you’re into really high-end moves like spins or stuff flying in the air…
>
> Stay on top, John Foss, the Uni-Cyclone http://www.unicycling.com
>
> “Dirt: it’s not just for breakfast anymore.” - MUni Weekend 2000 T-shirt (idea
> by Jacquie)

15

Re: what to buy

Why is the longer neck “just plain better”?

“John Childs” <john_childs@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:LAW-F2228TAGUjGnAKY000032c4@hotmail.com…
> The Miyata standard is a better freestyle uni than the Semcycle XL. I’d
go
> with the Miyata. It sounds like you’re going to be serious about this
> unicycling stuff so you might as well get a good uni.
>
> The Miyata is a good uni but it can use a little help in making it even
> better. If you’re bigger than a young grade school student you will probably
> want a longer neck on it so you won’t have to use the seatpost extension.
> Osell’s Bicycle/Unicycle Shop in Minnesota can customize the Miyata with a
> longer neck. The customized Miyata makes for a sharp
looking
> uni and the longer neck is just plain better.
>
> Contact info for Osell’s is 612.788.5200 I think Paul Wyganowski is the
guy
> who does the uni customizations. Someone from the Minneapolis area could give
> you more info about Osell’s if you’re interested in this route.
>
> Paul Wyganowski also makes a totally custom freestyle frame. It’s the
> ultimate in high-end for freestyle unicycles. Cost for this one gets into the
> $400+ range.
>
> Here’s an old message from Dustin Kelm and Andy Cotter about the
Wyganowski
> frame:
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> [begin quoted message]
>
> From: unicycledk@aol.comBICYCLE (dustin kelm) Subject: Re: Review on Osell’s
> Unicycle Frame
>
> Here’s some technical details and revisions I would like to add to Andy’s
> excellent review:
>
> -The credit for these frames should go to Paul Wyganowski. Paul works at
> Osell’s bike shop, but he builds the frames independantly in his own shop. He
> does acquire some materials from Terry Osell.
>
> -The tubing on the Wyganowski Frame is heat treated 4130 chromoly steartube
> and oversize tandem fork blades.
>
> -The fork crown is a machined Columbus two plate. The two plates allow two
> insertion and welding points for the fork blades creating a stronger more
> rigid frame. Miyata’s and Semcycle XL’s use crowns that are stamped out of
> sheet metal. Paul has told me that the difference in production cost of a
> stamped vs machined crown is about $6 vs $40, that should give you a little
> idea about the difference in quality.
>
> -Paul uses Miyata bearing mounts. I have one Wyganowski Frame with with the
> old style Miyata bearing holder fitted to a Semcycle NK hub (the first uni
> frame that Paul ever built.) My other Wyganowski Frame has hardened steel
> dropouts that are tapped to accept the new style Miyata bearing holders. This
> one is built with a Suzue hub. When ordering make sure you specify the bearing
> mounts and hub that you will be using because the widths are different on
> these hubs.
>
> -Andy mentioned the GT seat clamp and I believe he’s referring to the double
> bolt model. This is the best clamp that I’ve ever used. I recently removed the
> “permanent” clamps on my Miyata frames and put on GT double bolt clamps. The
> beauty of these clamps is that half of the clamp is machined to clamp over the
> seat tube and the top half clamps down on the seat post. In the two and a half
> years that I have used these clamps I’ve had a seat come out of adjustment
> only once that I can remember. My allen key is getting very lonely.
>
> -Another benifit of having a Wyganowski Frame is service. Paul takes his work
> personally and it has been my experience that Paul wants each frame to be
> perfect.
>
> -Besides Andy and I, here’s some others you may have heard of that are
> enjoying their Wyganowski Frames: Kristen Donohoo, 1999 US Women’s
> National Champion; Yuichiro Kato (Japan), 1996 World Champion; Christian
> Hoverath (Germany), 1999 Individual National Champion (I’m not sure of the
> exact title.)
>
> Paul can be reached through Osell’s or directly. (try Osell’s first) Paul’s
> card reads as follows: Wyganowski Frames St. Paul MN 651-772-2861 Custom
> Crafted Framesets Tandem & Singles All Styles Full Service, Wheel Building
> Frame Repair & Modifications 753 Certified
>
>
>
> cotter@skypoint.com (Andy Cotter) writes:
>
> >Chris Cline is working on a unicycle database and asked me to do a review
> >on the Osell’s custom frame for 20" unicycles. I have just received my
> >first 20" custom frame from Osell’s and am really happy with it. My main
> >artistic unicycle before the Osell’s frame was a Miyata standard frame
> >with an extended seat post (and a few other modifications). The Osell’s
> >frame utilizes the Miyata bearing holders so it can replace the existing
> >Miyata frame.
> >
> >Here the reasons that I think the Osell’s frame is superior to my
previous
> >Miyata standard frame:
> >* The frame is stiffer then a Miyata. I wouldn’t think this would be a factor
> > in a frame but the Osell’s unicycle feels more responsive.
> >* The flat crown on the frame is slightly bigger and the corners are not so
> > rounded. This really makes a difference when doing lots of stand up skills.
> > The extra surface area can help save the foot from being fatigued when
> > doing such skills as stand up wheel walk for a long time.
> >* The crown is lower to the wheel than the Miyata frame. Reducing the
> > clearance between the wheel and the frame has benefits on skills that
rely
> >on having a foot on the frame. While I don’t feel any difference in the one
> >foot skills, the harder skills and skills that involve both feet on the frame
> >feel easier (such as coasting and gliding with both feet on the frame).
> >* The frame is designed for my height. The GT seat clamp is right under the
> > seat. Even though I had a low profile clamp on my Miyata, I still would get
> > scrapped from it. With Osell’s frame the clamp under the seat and I would
> > really have to try to hit it. Having no clamp in the middle
of
> >my frame makes it a lot easier to do the skill seat in front freehanded.
> >
> >I called Osell’s for some prices. Of course, the standard disclaimer applies
> >in that prices and times are subject to change. Here is the cost of the frame
> >with some different finishing options. The time after each option is the
> >delivery time. $175 bare (one week) $220 one color (two weeks) $260 two color
> >frame (with a fade or other options) (two weeks) $300 chrome. (They have just
> >switched chroming places so time and money could change on this) (1 to 2
> >months)
> >
> >If you wanted a complete unicycle, the rest of the unicycle is $216 to $246
> >depending on rim quality. So, for a frame with one color finish and high
> >quality rim, the price would be $468.
> >
> >While the Osell’s custom frame is not a beginner item, it is something to
> >consider if you spend lots of time on your standard unicycle.
> >
> >Osell’s also makes custom 28" unicycles and custom two-wheeled unicycles. If
> >you have questions give them a call at 612.788.5200. Osell’s is
located
> >in St. Anthony, Minnesota (very near to Minneapolis).
> >
> >-Andy
> >
> >PS. Have a good Christmas and hopefully all those packages under the tree are
> > either unicycles or are really cool unicycle parts.
> >
>
>
> keep on trying, dustin klem unicycling productions www.dustin.kelm.com
>
> (remove the BICYCLE from the above address to send me your brain waves)
>
> isa 40:29-31
>
>
> [end of quoted message]
> -------------------------------------------------------------
>
> From: “Jeff Lutkus” <lutkus@hotmail.com>
> >I’ve been unicycling for nearly a year now, and I think it’s time for a
new
> >uni, and I’m trying to figure out what I should get. I’ve got a 24" Schwinn,
> >and a 26" homemade. I’m somewhere between a level 2 and 3 unicyclist at the
> >moment.
> >
> >I figure 20" is the way to go for learning tricks, and such. Everybody
and
> >their brother has told me Miyata is the way to go, and they’re probably
> >right. I’d just like to hear what the pro’s and con’s are of the major
> >brands are.
> >
> >I’ve been working on climbing stairs, and such, and will probably
continue
> >with that, so I don’t know how much of an issue wheel strength is. I’ve got
> >the one-footed idle down, and am working on one-footed riding, and hopefully
> >gliding some time soon, so I’m sure a flat crown would be most helpful.
> >
> >I guess at this point, I’ve really been looking between the Semcycle XL, and
> >Miyata standard. I found it an interesting feature that the semcycle xl could
> >be expanded to 2 wheels, though, I don’t know how far off I’d be
from
> >trying that.
> >
> >I appreciate any advice, and further description anyone can give me about the
> >various mid to high end unicycles out there.
> >
> >-jeff lutkus
> >______________________________________________________________________
> _________________________________________________________________________
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16

Re: what to buy

>The Miyata has a short neck and the seatpost is only 11" long. To get the seat
>up high enough for a non-short rider you have three choices:
>
> 3. Get a longer neck custom made

Having never seen one of Osells’ mods, I’m curious how they extend the neck. Is
the tube cut off above the fork crown and the longer neck welded there? Or is
the neck extended by welding a tube on top of the existing neck? Is the neck
then painted green or chromed to match the rest of the unicycle?

-Rick

17

Re: [Re: what to buy]

A very simple modification–I had Tom Miller at the unicycle factory
(765-452-2692)make me a longer seatpost–one that doesn’t need any kind of
extension. Of course, it can’t be lowered to the heights of normal people. I
still have my old Miyata post for those folks.

I seem to recall that Tommy charged me $50 or so.

David Maxfield Bainbridge Island, WA