what crank length in a muni?

[Rowan]

Originally posted by ChangingLINKS.com
1. Question, what size cranks do the MUni riders with the most technique use?

I dunno, ask them, because I am not someone with “the most technique”.

2. Reduced pedal scrapes? In one sentence you talk about technique - in the next you mention troubles over a pedal being less than 2" closer to the ground.

Thats right. Having a good technique will not change the distance between your pedals and obstacles on tracks (or on the sides of tracks). The main idea I was thinking of when I mentioned pedal scrapes, is rutted ground which has been dug out by feet and tires, and an inch difference per crank can be the difference between riding cleanly out of a rut, or being thrown off by a pedal digging in. It’s not a huge deal, but it is something I have noticed after trying both 170s and 145s.

3. I thought about this before you posted it - seems like we’re on the same page. I DO have long legs (and size 16 feet). Short cranks have never felt right for me. The crank length is also exactly the same as on my mountain b*ke.

I wasn’t sure if long legged people like long cranks, but I assumed they might, so thanks for clarifying that you do! It’s good that there are parts available that suit different sized people, because people come in many shapes and sizes.

4. Here we all agree. Each person should go for what suits them best. However, in making such decisions, asking for advice (as done here) can be a good thing.

I’m glad that we agree.

Questions to ask yourself:
Do I want to get short cranks just to imply skill?
Is speed my top priority (if so, why go with a MUni)?

Short cranks definitely do not imply skill. I don’t know what might give you that idea. Speed combined with offroad is one of my priorities, which is why I went for a MUni. I’d love to get a coker, but I can’t afford one yet, so I have a beast with (in my opinion) the best qualities of all unicycles. A fast, relatively lightweight MUni, which (I hope) is capable taking a beating without breaking. A 29er or 26" will taco when bad technique is used in drops, and apparently a Sun doublewide 24" is invincible and will go out of true at worst.

Could a larger wheel help (using 170s with a 26’ wheel)?
Could a smaller wheel help (would a strong trials be better)?
Will I be more or less balanced with my feet closer together?
What size cranks do the “expert riders” use in various situations?
What size cranks are on downhill mountain b*kes vs. cross country?
What does Bedford or Unicycle.com recommed [they get feedback]?

My answer to all of those questions is I don’t know (apart from I know that no 26 foot wheels are available). I am not an expert rider, even though I have beaten a couple of experts in races. The 400m race was unfair since my cranks were 7mm shorter than Tony Melton’s, and Malcolm Todd (on his 29er) surely had some disadvantage which held him back. Ken had no chance in the 100m race with his 170mm cranks vs my 145s.

Originally posted by Mikefule
[B]I read the blurb and bought some 170s. Hey presto, my freemounting improved.

I found I could also control the uni on steep descents.

I NEVER found any significant improvement on climbs, because the ungainly pedalling action cost me more in speed than it gained me in torque.[/B]

I agree that the ungainly pedal action slows you down. You have more torque but it is sometimes wasted when you grind to a halt. I find the long cranks more useful on steep downhills than steep uphills.

Originally posted by Mikefule
[B]So I remain convinced that 170s, just like ultra short cranks, are for specialist use only.

Experience, technique, a handle, and decent pedals are each worth a few mm. of crank length.[/B]

I find that a stiff seat with a good handle (I use a carbon fibre airseat with reeder handle) works wonders when ascending and descending on a unicycle. It is very important to be able to yank hard on the seat without it flexing, to be able to maximise the downwards pressure on either the front pedal (for climbing) or back pedal (for downhill).

[shadowuni]

170’s

i like the 170’s on my MUni, having also tried Obie’s 160’s numerous times, and Hell-on-wheel’s 145’s. i find that it gives me the amount of torque i want(which is a lot). i want to be able to ride over anything <4" without trying and anything =7" with a pull of the seat and a power stroke. i have gotten used to many gear ratio’s, such as my 140mm trials, my 140mm coker, my 140mm giraffe, and my 89mm 12". for me, MUni commands 170’s. torque, torque, and awayyyyyyy…!!!11111

[andrew_carter]

This morning I went for a ride on Mt Coot-tha and rode all the way up the Paddock Track! I’m sure that doesn’t mean much to you but it’s about 2km long, uphill pretty much all the way, and in my opinion very steep in places. I’ve ridden up parts of it with 170mm cranks and I can honestly say that I much prefer my 145’s.

I’m about to buy a beautiful brand new HS11 brake for my muni and as soon as that’s fitted to a new frame it will be the ideal setup for me.

On a side note, this morning Rockley discovered something interesting. He burns the same amount of calories riding/walking up the Paddock Track (about 2km-ish) as he does riding a bike over 8km to work. Interesting, hey.

Andrew

[thinuniking]

i got my muni on friday it came with 170’s they do seem fine to be honest i am still not used to the 24" yet but in a few days i will be speeding along
BEn