I am thinking about buying a united 24 inch 35 spoke light-trail unicycle.Is this a good muni?
i believe you mean 36 spoke wheel, cuz i dont think they make 35 spoke wheels. any way i have a united muni with a 36 spoke kavachi wheel, it has worked well as a muni slash trails uni for me, but if i were you i would spend the extra money and get a sem xlw muni instead. i would have done this but they didnt have them when i got my uni. it is a much better uni cuz you it come with a 2.6 gazz jr tire which is much better than the 2.1 kenda black smoke that comes on the united plus the flat crown is much better than the rounded on on the united. so i would recomed not getting a united muni and instead spending a little more on a semcycle xlw.
joeyhi,
The wheel on the Semxlw is much stronger than the united.
You can take one foot drops easy and not worry too much, the United won’t take it for too long. Spend the extra and get the SemXLW. You can grow into it and the tire is boss.
As long as you stay away from big drops, the XLW provides a great ride for lowest money.
Work the maze.
If you buy something with a good wheel than you should be ok.
http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=119 not bad for $329 if you don’t mind spending the extra cash.
http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=124 is a good deal, but you’ll always need something heavier duty than you think.
Cliped from your duplicate thread:
My main concern with the “United” trails uni (the only thing united about it being the hub and frame) is the cranks. For less than 2’ rolling drops, or 1’ dead rops, I think the wheel is fine (I’m not riding the Sun rim on the trails Uni, but the steal tank rim on the trainer). However, if you’d like to be the human pogo-stick, you may find cranks lacking in longevity.
I suppose it’s all relative. I’v riden my stock United trainer daily since September. In that time, I’v done some punishing things to the cranks- mostly hopping and gaping, but also learning the kick-up mount (not to mention wacking the pedals while learning new moves). Since the 1.75" streat tire was swaped for a 2.1" nobby tire about a month ago, and the off-road action started, one crank suffers from intermitant looseness. Still, the cranks have not bent (noticeably), and the wheel is still rideable. I’m told, however, that little loose jiggle is death for the crank/hub.
Let’s pretend that most of the damage done to my set up has occured in the last 2 months, and that failure is imannant. Replacement cost of the hub ($25)+cranks($10)+wheel rebuild ($15) and shipping ($5) comes to about $55. This comes to around $330 a year (not to mention medical bills encured from kicking every rock you see on the WALK home). Compare this to the *over-priced high end Profile Hub and Cranks, $350, and you come out slightly ahead fixing the stock hub/cranks- if the Profile only lasts a year. I’m told it should excead that period.
The choice is mostly about money. I’m still riding the United, and it HAS NOT failed, and I feel the value-per-dollar is quite high. I’m not realy sure which side of my argument to weigh in on.
Christopher
*The price of a Profile front AND back BMX hub (sealed bearings), plus a 3 piece crank (more bearings), comes to about $320. I think the primary difference in cost is the lack of competition- currently, there is only one vendor of the Profile Uni hub…
“Chris lied to you about the bicycle part. Don’t turn your back on him. Don’t loan him any money even if he begs.” -Greg Harper