Unistar = Stealth Torker on Unicycle.com?


Is the Unistar on Unicycle.Com the same as the Stealth Torker?


yes it is

Oh, good, because I already ordered it. :slight_smile:


And you’ll get one before Rhysling. Let me know if I need to make TWO seatpost extensions.


What kind of seat post extension will I need? Is it the Miyata one? If so, I already have one from my original United trainer. I didnt know what height I needed so I got one “in case.”


Nope, different seat post diameter. not sure what though.

Ah, rats.

Well, I guess I may need the services of a Master after all! (Thanks for the offer of help Greg!)

I suppose we will see!


Too cool! You’ll love the 20". As you know, I don’t leave home without it. Good luck with it. Your uni skills are going bloom withthis new ride - I’m SURE!


I also hope that it is the same (I’m sure it is). I ordered it on monday and should be here tomorrow. I’ll probably cannibalize all the parts that I want from it (saddle, post, cranks), then use whats left of that plus other spare parts lying around to put together a new uni for my cousin.

Speaking of which, do they sell unicycle-compatible cranks at bike stores? Or do all bike cranks come with the spider on them, rendering them useless for unicycles? I’d like to keep the short black cranks that come with the stealth (cheap, thought they may be), but I’ll have to put some kind of crank back on it if I want to give it to my cousin.

Does any one know if, or when, Torker will make a 24 inch stealth?


Ahhhhhhhh, they made the thing for Midgets… er… or is that Dwarves? You know, the little people.

Just tooled around a bit after unboxing the Stealth. General impression is ‘what a good value’. The sadle is the Miayata Petiet… bit tight of a fit, for this Macho Michacho. The bearing bracket nuts are nylon-locking with non-split washers; I had to tighten 'em up a bit after riding for only a few minutes -I think they will stay put. The wheel is as good as previously described by Greg. The frame neck has 3 slots (as apposed to 1), and the seat post clamp is lever action -nice feel, not as bulky side to side as the united clamp, but with a larger, curved handle.

Even more unfortunate than the seat post length is the ‘Lasco’ like pedals; high Q-factor, flexing aluminium. These cranks could vacum your carpet. I would keep them, but I have hardwood floors.

Now the only decision is weather to go with a flower motife on the seat post extension, or a nice clean Pink?



I stripped out my cranks trying to get the pedals in. They looked straight until they were half-way in. Oh well. I hope the cranks and pedals are generic enough to buy an off the shelf replacement, like coker cranks or something.


Ahhhh Lewis,

Dude, so sorry to hear about your cranks.

BTW: Before you were back in JAckson I had your Schwinn roling again. I’ll bring it after T’giving. Tom says that he’s coming too.

Good luck gett your 20" fixed.



Thanks for the sympathy, I did need it. I guess there is no “fixing” the cranks, I have to replace them. I just need to find out if I can put Coker cranks on it. :slight_smile:


Hey Lewis WAIT!

You’ve got some perfectly good cranks that I took off your old Schwinn wheel. Man, I’ll put them in the mail in the morning! That work out kind nice!

I love it when the Universe works around our mistakes.

That was a 24" wheel, and the Uni-Star is 20- those cranks will be way too long. So would Coker cranks.

You’ll want these: Bicycle Euro Cranks, in 125 or smaller (I would go for the 110’s, but be warned- they will feel small). What size are you riding on your Electric Blue Freestyle, Tommy?

How did you destroy both? Are the threads really that bad on the pedals? I would hope that they would be significantly stronger than the cranks. If you wana save the cranks, we might be able to hammer a couple of those threaded shims in there after drilling out the hole… although I don’t have much faith in the hole being perfectly paralel to the axle. If only one crank had been damaged, and they were the same length as the standard Torkers, we may have been able to salvage one from your other cycle…



Basically, I started putting in the right pedal, and it went in a few full revolutions. At some point I realized it seemed a little stiff, so I stopped, and backed out.

The same thing happened with the left pedal, but I went much farther. It didnt seem stiff at all, at first, and then suddenly it got stiff and wouldnt turn. Thats when I looked down and realized it wasnt straight … geez. It looked straight when I started.

After backing out the pedals, I looked in, and sure enough each crank was all shiny and silver where the pedal had gouged it. I have put in pedals before and never had this problem. I think the curve in the design of the crank threw me for a loop or something, because they looked straight to me.

I’m not sure about the pedals but they look kinda “shiny” in the wrong way also.


The UniStar cranks are painted aluminum. The pedal axles are hardened steel. The shiny stuff you see on the threads on the pedals is aluminum from the cranks. You should be able to remove it with a knife or stiff wire brush. The pedals should be peachy-keen, fine and dandy.


Thanks! I guess that is good news! :slight_smile: I have already ordered 125 mm Bicycle Euro cranks, and the same Crank Puller Chris uses … so that I can become even more dangerous. Still, I’d rather make mistakes, and correct them, and proceed ahead, rather than give up on doing anything myself. One day, Chris is going to blow this popstand, so I need to be able to do some basic things myself. Learning Curve Slow for me. :slight_smile: Oh and I went ahead and got some more pedals but I’ll use em as spares. :slight_smile: (Presuming the ones that came with the Stealth Torker are still good, which they should be. )



The same crank puller that Chris uses? He’s a high-tech kind of guy and I thought he used tri-nitro-toluene as a crank puller.

That’s right, you can do this. And those pedals are fine and will make handy spares.