Torque wrench set recommendations

I am changing cranks for the first time, and it turns out I need more ‘things’. This is all ISIS gear. Today I ordered spacers which I didn’t foresee. No big deal.

I assume a torque wrench set is a good idea. Here are questions; thanks in advance:

  • For unicycle, and cycling in general, what Nm range should I consider?
  • For swapping out cranks on my two Nimbus cycles, how do I know what torque to apply? Where does it state it?
  • What kind of grease should I use? I assume something quite thick/viscous. White lithium?

If you have an Amazon link to a recommended set, I’d be grateful :smiley:

For bikes 30-50 ft-lbs is common. With a 6” Allen key, that comes out to 60-100 lbs of force applied at the end, with an 8” Allen key(long for a #8 but possible to acquire with some searching), that comes out to 45-90 lbs applied at the end. Short answer, just give a good, solid tug and you’ll be fine. I’ve never bothered to get the adapters to use a torque wrench with an 8mm Allen and I’ve just been tightening crank bolts with the solid tug method for a while now.


Yup. For ISIS crank bolts, just get them good and tight. I doubt you would be able to overtighten them with a normal hex wrench.

Type of grease doesn’t really matter. I have a tub of standard (car) wheel bearing grease which I’ve had for many years and use for everything.

If you get a Schlumpf hub then I would start to worry about torque specs.


It always depends on the fastener. A big m12 fastener like crank bolts will probably even need a different torque wrench, since you need so much more torque for it than a seatclamp bolt.
On unicycles, there is usually no torque spec specified (except for schlumpf hubs), on bikes, you can often find some in manuals or printed on the part itself.

Somewhere in the 30-40 Nm range seems to be commonly recommended for Isis. I just give it a good tighten with an allen key, I only use torque wrenches for really critical fasteners (wheelstuds on a car for example). I’d notice if the cranks get loose before it’s a big issue and to snap it, you’d have to try pretty hard.

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This is all very welcome information. Thank you. I am happy to hear from all that a torque wrench is unnecessary here. Saves me that step and another order. Thank you again,

I don’t use a torque wrench either, but I would like to because it would be better and easier. Long arm and correct result.

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I don’t use torque wrenches on any of my unis but I do for my Santa Cruz b*ke.
I have both a Park TW-5.2 (2-14NM) and TW-6.2 (10-60NM). Various bolts have a wide range of torque specs.

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Hey thank you. I am also interested in b*ke repair, so I’ma check these out.