Today I tryed pedal grabs for the first time,very fun !!
OPPS Sorry wrong thread !!
today I unicycled down to the shopā¦ twice, and now Iām typing this with an entire packet of biscuits next to me 
Itās not nice weather to ride here, itās not fair 
Today I didnāt mix the French Vanilla powder good enough, so I had a big chunk on the bottom and I scooped it out with my finger and ate it.
Nope, right thread. That isnāt a brag, itās just something you did:)
Today I found out that my 36" uni is lighter than my 26" uni: 7443g vs. 7444g 
. This is due to the 26" being a fatty with a 4.6" wide studded tire. On the other hand, the 36" has a T-bar, so itās also a bit heavier than in its original configuration. The lightest of the bunch was my GETitONE X-Tour 29": 5525g, with a studded tire in the 2" width range. Will be a bit heavier once I change the wheel - not because of the tire, but because of the Schlumpf hub 
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Thatās crazy. My lightest Uni is my 29" Muni with 6,3 KG I think. My 24" Muni is heavy like 7,2 KG.
The weight of the Oregon is prolly mostly down to the tire. Itās a fat tireĀ°* with studs, weighing about 1.5kg. Plus the steel V-frame will be a bit heavier than the typical aluminium fork. Oh, and I have currently 165mm cranks mounted, since I needed the 150s you sold me for the 36er. But once I commit to mount shorter cranks to the 36er I will move the 150s to the muni.
Ā°* The tire is supposed to be 4.8" wide, but reported to be more in the 4.3" range effectively. On the 60mm wide Marge Light rim of my Oregon itās only 10cm / 4" wide (a bit more if you include the knobs, even less if you donāt 
). Oh well, It did quite well in snow and ice, so Iām not gonna complain.
Today I destroyed a 15mm and a pedal. Today I wished for a machine that destroyed pedals and cranks 
.
So I finally decided to mount shorter cranks on my 36er. 145mm instead of 150mm (yeah, itās not a big step, but still). And I wanted to mount the 150s back on the Oregon (the current 165s are really a bit long). getting the cranks off 3 unicycle wheels wasnāt the problem. but getting the pedals off was a real PITA. I now have 1x RaceFace Chester and 2x Nimbus āstandardā that I wasnāt able to remove.
The only positive at the moment is that the 36er has the green Stealth rim, so I chose green pedals - those are an ok match for the green Oregon frame. But I wouldāve preferred the Nimbus pedals for my muni. A brand new one of those is now locked on some 125mm cranks that I currently donāt use and one is locked on some 140mm cranks that are probably the next step for my 36er. Of course itās always the same (the left) side that I canāt remove 
.
I know, there are washers. Unfortunately they didnāt come with any of my cranks. And since I never had a problem until now I thought I was doing fine using mounting paste and not tightening them pedals like mad. I was obviously wrong and after unsuccessfully trying to remove those dreaded pedals for a whole hour I am mad and frustrated. Sometimes when feeling like this you wish to smash everything to pieces. Well, I do, but Iām so disillusioned that I donāt even want to do it myself - I wish I had a machine that did it for me.
Bloody cranks, bloody pedals!
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Oregon 26x4: currently at 6525g (including a set of small lamps weighing ca. 100g) after switching to the Kenda Juggernaut tire and shorter cranks (150mm vs. 165mm). Different pedals too, since I couldnāt seperate the left pedal from the crankā¦
Oracle 36: currently at 7335g (including small lamps and cycle computer), with T-bar and 145mm cranks.
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I donāt want to sound patronising, but since you mentioned it is always the same side, are you remembering itās a reverse thread? Are you certain you are trying to unscrew them and not just tightening even further?
I generally remove pedals while the cranks are still installed, and both sides unscrew towards the back.
Right side, right thread; left side, left thread. I am aware of that, and thatās how I tried to unscrew them while they were mounted to the wheel.
BUT after this didnāt work I took the cranks to the vise, and there I did indeed try to turn in the wrong direction!
So, thank you, will try again tomorrow or so. Still wondering why I could loosen the right pedals, but not the left ones when I tried it the correct way in the first place.
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I have had to clamp a spanner in a vice and slip a piece of scaffolding tube over the crank arm before to really increase the leverage. Iāve also been known to leave the crank installed and stand on the spanner to get it moving 
Just have to make sure it is a good quality spanner so the jaws donāt deform under the extra force. Itās so frustrating when things donāt just work like they are supposed to!
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Today I took the Oregon for a ride in the forest - with 150mm cranks and the pedals of my 36er. One UPD was clearly down to the āwrongā pedals. The problem was that I placed my foot in an awkward position on the pedal when mounting. Of course Iām trying to correct that as soon as possible, but the new pedal had too much grip, so I couldnāt immediately move my foot to the desired position. I was still trying to reposition it when I ran into bumpy terrain and UPDād. Iām pretty sure this would not have happened with my usual pedals that suit my needs for muni way better.
The good news is that this evening I had another go at those dreaded left side, left thread pedals and could remove two out of three that were stuck / I accidentally tightened last night. An old Nimbus pedal decided to stay on the 165mm crank. Thankfully, thatās the crank length that Iām most unlikely to use again in the near future (unless I go for a g36, which is very unlikely, really). So my stupidity ācostā me a pedal and a crank in the end (can still use them, but not combine them with other pedals or cranks), but at least I could mount the other stuff on the correct unis again, and for that Iām grateful.
Goes to show that this awesome forum is way better than a machine that destroys cranks and pedals (that I wished for yesterday).
Fun fact: last night I dreamed of cranks (no joke). To be more precise: I dreamed of me unicycling with the shorter cranks on my muni and estimate the difference to the cranks that were mounted before. Well, in reality it was more enjoyable than in my dream 
. I had a UPD or two that might couldāve been avoided with longer cranks, but I adapted to the new situation rather quickly and noticed that I rode faster. Life is good (after all).
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Letting it sit out in the sun to heat up and cool down a few times may make it possible to remove. Just make sure itās warm when you try to remove it. If itās still stuck youāve only invested a little time. Another option is a penetrating lubricant on the threads. It would be a loss if you canāt ultimately remove the pedals.
I was thinking of heat and cold, too. But at the moment I just donāt wanāt to mess around with those dreaded parts.
Today I had an unusual UPD with my 36er. I was approaching an intersection and wanted to use the brake to help me slow down. But the break didnāt do much. So I pulled a bit harder - I mean, what could happen? One thing that could - and did - happen was a UPD, because the brake suddenly did grip 
. Fortunately I could run it out, for a change.
Turned out that my cycle computer that is mounted in a very sloppy way at the very front of the T-bar had rotated, thereby blocking the brake lever. Once I applied enough force it eventually gave way to the lever and as a consequence I hit the brake hard - which led to the expected result.
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Today I had to take the 36er in for its first brake service 
The brake has been feeling āoffā the last couple weeks, but this is my first time having disc brakes on any sort of 'cycle so I figured maybe the pads were just getting worn. Yesterday however it started feeling really mushy, and soon enough the brake lever went full travel and the brakes barely applied. Yikes! R.I.P the brake line probably
I took it to my LBS and they told me theyāll probably have it fixed by Tuesday. I also asked them to put on a shorter line being that I had mine roughly where I wanted it to be and I didnāt need the extra line, which they kindly agreed to do so. Some of the looks I got when I rolled it in there was priceless 
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Today, or rather tonight, I dreamed of unicycling. I was unicycling on a huge flat, snow covered area, trying (rather successfully) to do some pirouettes - something I havenāt gotten my head around yet in real life. Then I started riding backwards. Fast. Like, really fast. That felt pretty good. And it got even better as I started to do crossovers, like on skates. How I did that? No idea. But it was a dream, so no explanation needed.
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Update for my last post, picked up the uni from the shop earlier today 
The brake is back in tip-top shape. Lately Iāve been wanting to give my legs a rest as Iāve been doing a lot of harder riding, though I couldnāt resist riding around for a while on the 36er. Iāll say my excuse is that I wanted to try to bed the new pads inā¦
On the āgiving my legs a restā side of things though I really do need to dial things back a bit. I feel like Iāve gotten to the point where I need to pay attention to how long/how hard/how often I ride and giving myself enough rest days. I donāt want to exhaust my legs just when the weather starts getting nice 
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