It is a prototype frame on another development programme. The way of things to come? I am not saying yet, but we have 2 new 36" designs being worked on for next year, both are exciting for different reasons.
The brake is a Hope, I am not certain but I think it is the 4 pot version.
More description of the unicycle here:
http://www.unicycle.uk.com/blog/staff-unicycles-part15′/
Roger
Prototype of one by the looks of the blog post here. I thought the current design was found to be stiffer on 36ers though than a single tube frame design?
Well, that bit is not a secret… I have been riding several of them already. I do have my super light 36" unicycle (6kg). I ride it in dusseldorf last year.
Roger
I can confirm from picking it up that it is indeed super light!
Don’t break my brake, my achy brakey brake…
Hi all,
My new oracle 29er wheel arrived from municycle.com in Germany yesterday (Wednesday). I got straight to work installing it in my Triton 29er ( frame custom made in 2009), but little did I know…
First issue: Disc side bearing was firmly pressed on, and I don’t have access to a bearing puller. After some research online, I managed to make my own bearing puller using a steel plate, some M8 threaded rod, M8 bolts, and my schlumpf crank setter bolt. Crisis averted, removed the bearing without issue. Must have been all those episodes of Macguyer I watched as a kid!
Second issue: I checked the “d’Brake” with my triton frame, and low and behold there was about 3.5mm offset between the threaded lugs on the frame bearing holders, and the bolt holes on the d’Brake. After racking my brain, I decided to do some d’Brake surgery with my trusty ol Dremel. I removed just enough material so the bolts aligned, and so the bolt heads were still countersunk. Now that I had fixed this problem, next was mounting the disc!
Third issue: The disc I used for this project as a magura MT2 with 180mm rotor. The heads of the bolts that attach the disc brake adapter to the d’Brake were too large to fit into the countersunk holes of the dbrake. So, again I pulled out the trusty old Dremel and gave the head of the bolts some grinder loving. They were also too long, and once fully screwed in actually rubbed the disc rotor, so I shortened them by 5mm with a dremel cutting wheel and then rethreaded them with my tap set! Another crisis averted!
Seeing I was in the mood for making and modifying stuff, I also got some old magura rim brake mount bolts, cut them, and rethreaded them so I could use the old magura frame mounts to route my disc cable. I fossicked around and found some black plastic toolbox dividers spare, and cut them up into strips, heated them with a torch, and shaped them to they fit around the disc brake hose. I then rounded the edges, and BAM, instant hose clamps.
As the standard hose length on the MT2 was 180cm, I also shorted the hose to a much more manageable length. I also took the Dremel to the MT2 lever and modified it to fit a spooner I had spare. So, all of that done, I then fiddled with the alignment of the disc, and got it after a while. Talk about a long process, all that was finished after lunch today (Thursday).
I have a standard muni loop I ride most days on the 29er. It’s about a 10km loop, a mixture of gravel paths through the forrest, single track through pine forrests, some dirt roads, and a little bitumen. There’s a few sections with technical climbs and descents, but it’s mostly gently undulating over the terrain. Being familar with the ride (ridden it most days for the last 2 months), I was looking forward to trying it now I have the new 29er setup…
I have previously had magura rim brakes on my muni’s, and this is my first foray into the world of discs. First up, the disc is much more responsive, and braking is very smooth. It rained earlier today, and the tracks I usually ride were muddier than usual. I was aiming for most puddles, and ended up with a fair bit of mud all over the place, but the disc was still consistently grippy even though it got a mud bath.
Another thing I noticed was the 29 X 2.4" ardent now feels a lot fatter and stable over bumps than previously. I attribute this to switch from a 38mm XC KH 29 rim in the old wheel, to a 47mm 29" KH freeride rim in the new wheel. Maybe it’s just in my head, but the uni really plows through the soft stuff now!
By the end of the ride there was a small problem with the d’Brake and the tightness of the bearings. I will keep a close eye on the mount, as I modified it a fair bit to fit my frame, I still don’t feel 100% with the setup. I have contacted the Triton guys to see what kind of turn around I am looking at get a frame mount added to the frame, so I might end up going that option in the future if the d’Brake doesn’t work out.
Anyway, thanks for reading, and I look forward to sharing more of my thoughts on the disc brake system, now that I have it finally installed and functioning!
Cheers,
Dmac 
Photos:
1: My old wheelset, '08 KH Ti hub, Ti spokes, KH 38mm XC 29" rim.
2. The new wheel! Oracle hub, SS spokes, freeride 29" rim, 29 X 2.4" Ardent, foss tube.
3: Brake setup.
4: Homemade hose clamps and mounts.
Nice one, shame about all the little problems but rewarding to work through them. Nice cable clamps, I got some car hose p-clips for mine.
I am in the process of building mine up today
I’m not suprised about the Triton fit issues, I doubt UDC had a Triton handy to check compatability.
Shortening the bolts was an issue on my original Oregon frame mount, but the D Brake on my Oregon and on my two KH frames was a perfect fit.
On a bright note, I installed the D Brake on a 29er KH and 26er JH without a single hitch
In terms of the bearing being stuck on, you probably need a bearing puller anyhow, they are inexpensive, I bought one for $20.
After installing the disc, there is the issue of pressing the bearing onto the spindle. Just be careful to not damage the bearing, lead or aluminum tubing is a good choice and a dead blow hammer.
I also use the Magura mounts for a hose routing clamp, a shorted brake mount bolt and a nylon cable strap from Home Depot, cost 0.10$ each
Here’s a quick clip style
http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-Electrical-Tools-Accessories-Staples-Ties-Tubing-Staples/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbmc3/R-100195177/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051
I just ordered my fourth D Brake outfitted uni
I’m told the d’Brake fits newer batches of Triton frames; my 29er frame is a custom one off from mid 2009, so it may be why it doesn’t fit. My 36er triton frame is from a 2011 batch, I’ll check compatibility next time I have the d’brake off the wheel.
Cheers, Dmac
Got mine built up last night
Tyre rubs on the frame because the rim is so badly buckled, it won’t true enough to stop it rubbing so I’ll have to get a new rim and relace the wheel.
The brake is so powerful, im going to be able to ride some stupidly steep stuff with it!
Its a monster, weighs a ton, but Im a downhill rider so it doesn’t matter too much 
It does look very heavy- how do you get to the top of the hills you ride down?
Ski lift or walk 
Can I play!
KH26 Frame
KH fixed seat post
KH Freeride Seat
KH seat brake mount
single bolt seat post clamp
Qu-Ax lightweight 145mm cranks
Nukeproof Electron pedals
Dartmoore Raider rim
Nimbus Disc Hub
DT Compertion db black spokes
DT silver brass nipples
2.4 Conti RubberQueen (black chilli)
conti tube with secret sealant
D-Brake disc mount
Shimano SLX disc brake
160mm Formula disc
5.45 kg!
And I thought a 203mm on my 29er was going to look big!
Building mine up over the weekend.
Cheers dmacuni for your review - I’ve also got my MT2 and I’m going to head to my local engineering store tomorrow to pick up some shorter & smaller headed screws and plastic cable clips if I can’t find any lying around.
I got my p clips (cable clips) from halfords and used some spare disc rotor screws
If the rim wasn’t bent before you built the wheel, then the problem is with the build. Take it to your LBS and let them retension the wheel, the steep dishing on the Oracle hub is hard to true and keep true.
What frame is that?
Rim was buckled before I built it up. I was hoping I’d be able to true out the buckle but its too far gone. New rim time 
Its the Oracle frame 
Looks like a de-stickered Nimbus Oracle with those brazed on cable bosses and curved crown.
That Gazzi looks very tight in there
Yeah its the Oracle, not sure why it came without stickers but Im glad it did. Not keen on the colour scheme of the Oracle.
Haha yeah it is tight, its actually touching in the photo because of the buckled rim
You got a frame without the parts? That’s not fair! In the states we can only completes until the next shipment 
So, is the frame wide enough for a Gazz 3"?
Bummer about the rim, they aren’t cheap.
The frame is only 600g odd so not very heavy, is it not cost effective to order one from the UK?