Spoke tension #'s for 29" Oracle & KH

Does anybody here know the spoke tension numbers for a 29" Dominator II rim?
Also, how about the 29" Freeride?

I don’t know why UDC doesn’t publish the recommended tension for their rims, but if you contact them they should be able to tell you what tension to use. My guess is that Roger would have the numbers handy if you send an email to udc.uk.

Modern rims generally do fine with up to 120Kgf, and so if you can’t get more specific info I would just keep it between 110-120kgf.

When you say “tension number”? You mean the number on a ParkTool TM1?

Thanks Jtrops, that’s what I was looking for.
Pierrox, yes those numbers would work too.

So here’s my dilemma after trying out my new TM-1…

29" Oracle with inboard disc on left and the wheel ran true. But, the left side average tension was up near 240kgf and 140kgf on the right.
So after discovering that was way too high I tried to turn all the spokes equally down in tension.
This is when I also discovered how soft the nipples are by having too much tension. (I damaged several and now a spoke wrench won’t even work)

Now I’m at 172kgf on the left and 99kgf on the right but the wheel has pulled over to the right side.

What am I doing wrong or how can I correct this? (thankfully this is my spare muni!)

I just input the numbers for the Dominator 2, and the Nimbus disc hub into a spoke length calculator, and it says that there will be a 51% variance in the spoke tension. So, if you have it dished correctly the non-disc side should have about 51% of the disc side tension. In other words figure for about 60kgf/120kgf for a properly dished wheel.

Just to make sure that what I said is understood correctly, “dished” refers to the centering of the rim between the locknuts (or bearings on a uni hub). The term gets used incorrectly a lot of the time and it leads to some confusion.

When you are working on an asymmetrically dished wheel like this one it is helpful to get it trued, and dished at low tension, and then to bring up the tension evenly from there. Once you get close to the ideal tension on the disc side you can fine tune dishing and truing, but most of the work should be done from the lower tension non-disc side at this point.

Thank you so much for that.
That makes sense.

I need to get some replacement nipples and maybe stock up on spare spokes before I tackle this.

Thanks again for your help.

So I went around the wheel and dialed down the tension on the right/non disc side (no damaged nipples on that side…surprise,surprise!) and with just a little tweaking I ended up with an average of 152.39kgf on the disc side and 72.11kgf on the non.

…and the dishing seems to have disappeared. Perfectly centred now.

Thank you so much for the help. Big stress relief.

I bet your wheel feels the same way :stuck_out_tongue: