so I am a noob!

I am about to get a Torker LX 20" for my birthday coming up and am wondering a few things. I read a bunch of forums about unis before I thought about the type of one I wanted. My parents (who are giving me the gift) dont have an incredible amount of money to spend on an expensive unicycle, so the LX seemed like the best bang for its buck. Now I have 0 experience on a uni, I am actually just getting into the hobby. My goal though is to eventually get into trials type stuff and maybe some muni. Obviously a 20" torker wouldnt be good for Muni (from what I read at least), but will it take the beatings of trials. I by no means weigh a lot. I am around 5’10" and weigh in at a meeger 140, will this uni be able to handle hops and such? I read somewhere that if you over inflate the tires it works much better, but I cant imagine overinflating is to good on the rubber. Some people complain about these “low end” unicycles now that I have been sitting low on this forum for a few weeks now reading old posts. My other question is what is a good uni for taking a beating, is the KH the best bet? Many people talk about this being the best there is out there. So, what is the lightest, most indestructible uni? Sorry if this has been adressed a million times before, so all of you forum police…I really did try to look this stuff up first. :smiley:

Well, the LX is not what I would say could “take a beating” simply because it is not built for the extremes of unicycling (i.e. MUni, Trials, etc.) It is simply built for riding. If you feel the need for a durable uni to take a real beating and ask for more choose either a KH or a Torker DX, as they both are incredibly durable.


which is lighter?

Yeah the LX isn’t that strong I would recomend staying away from drops and absolutlely none higher than a bench. Landing on grass or dirt will reduce the impact on the uni parts. Focus mainly on technical trials, hopping up (not down), and flatland frestyle. Some freestyle tricks are very good for increasing general uni control like riding SIF, SIB, seat drag, riding w/ one foot, and backwards. SIF opens up higher potential hops, and wheel walking (ww) opens up a lot of street tricks.

thanks for the pointers. So out of the two you mentioned which is lighter? That is if I pick up on this whole unicycling thing, just want to have a goal to shoot for. :slight_smile:

The KH is lighter, because it has less spokes and an aluminum frame, but don’t relate lightness to weakness because I believe the KH is stronger although I’ve never seen someone break either a DX or KH. I would go for the DX because it is alot less costly than the KH.

KH is best deal now

They cost the same as the quax and are lighter and stronger.
For 100 $ more then a dx you can get a uni that is stronger and 2 lbs. lighter.
Tell your parents you will never need another one. At this price, 365 $ , the game has changed. 140 lbs. is heavy enough to break stuff, and you will grow how much more the next few years ?

If they already ordered the LX for you and you don’t know how to ride yet, I wouldn’t worry about it’s strength just yet. It will be fine for learning on and hold up to learning beginning trials techniques.

Once you start doing larger drops (say… 3+ feet high) and more ‘advanced’ trials, then you might want a KH or Qu-Ax trials uni.

KH is best, although if I were you I wouldn’t pay more for it just because of that. It’s light, but just as strong as the Qu-Ax.

Isn’t the Qu-Ax of comparable/equal quality to the Torker DX? I would go for the DX since it’s cheaper then.

Yeah, if you already ordered the LX it’s not a bad purchase for begining trials or basic skillz. I had a Torker Lx as my first uni, and it has held up to some beating, and has been a good first uni.

But once you start doing bigger things, and drops and whatnot you will need…need, and stronger uni. The lx just cant take it. So in that case, the Torker DX would be the best route to go. It has a splined hub and cranks, and is very strong for the money. It’s a little on the heavier side, but once again it is pretty strong for the money. :smiley:

thanks one and all

I am really glad I got on here. I am 24, so I doubt I will be growing any more. I am grossly underweight from running for so much of my life. All of your advice has been very useful. I figured the LX would be a good choice as something to start on as I had heard that cheap unis are harder to learn on. Torker sounded like a very promising brand for the price. I just wanted to find out what would be the next step once I got into this, have to work on not falling before I can worry about making jump, drops and such. Ill keep you guys informed on my progress. I would eventually consider Muni, but I would have to travel a bit to do that…not much as far as hills in the northeastern tip of FL (this is why trials and freestyle seem like more of an option for me). Once again, Thanks guys

my advice, just learn to ride first off, once you get good and you can like hop staircases that kinda of stuff and start doing drops like 1m +

basically your LX will slowly die. Thats when you buy a new uni. Get some advice then about what to get, likely they’ll be some new models lol.

and KH / qu-ax trials and torker DX are just basically all very strong trials uni that are all in 1kg of each other and all pretty strong. A bit of research and u’ll see that the qu-ax is supposed to have a near indestructible hub but has annoying nubs, the DX had a frame trouble in 2006 and has nubs on its cranks too, and the KH is abit lighter with an aluminium frame and has ISIS cranks. (although the new qu-ax cranks are ISIS too)

dont rush into changing your uni, just change when the LX starts falling apart (it will :D)

seat post!

why is it that seat posts are made so they have to be cut. I just got a 20" Torker for my birthday and the post height is so long its incredible. I am not short, but who in the world is long enough to sit on these things without cutting them? Even at their lowest setting its insane. Gonna have to cut it tomrrow am I am sure. Any suggestions on how to cut it? It is important to round the edges?

it is made tall so that then tall people can ride it too.

you dotn have to round the edges.

Best cutting tool

Is a saws-all power tool. Maybe 60$ or so. Cut the post in seconds! I recommend this tool over pipe cutters, hack saws etc. It can cut anything, so you will be able to use it on lot’s of non uni tasks. Rusted dang muffler clamp?, hard to get at something ? You would think I was selling them, that’s how good they are!:slight_smile:

I read somewhere a while ago about how you should know the right size of the seat post for you to ride on. I think what I read is that when sitting in the seat your heel should be completely stright when in the down position and if you use your toes your knee should be slightly bent…is this true. Just want to make sure I cut it correctly, then I am gonna go out and start learning…thanks guys.

just don’t cut too much off. from reading, the most common problem amongst beginners is having the seat too low. i did plenty of reading before getting my first uni, knew about this tendency, and i still ended up cutting it too short :wink:

you will probably read that you will want it lower for some tricks, but just remember, you can always cut it shorter later if you are certain you need to. keeping in mind that at the beginning, statistically, your instincts are likely to be wrong about this :wink:


I had to cut some off of it. I cut just enough that the seat post is still bumping into the top of the Y joint, if that makes sence as I would have to cut more in order to make it shorter…its not like I could just push it down in the Y. When my leg is at its lowest position it is almost nearly straight if not completely straight. At least this is what it seems like. Im not sure if this would cause me to go left and right all of a sudden at the end of my pedal rotations. I rode about 5 feet on it so far…once…most of the time I fall before that once I let go of anything. I would rather not cut to much of it off, I just want to make sure I am not handicapping myself anymore then I need to be when learning to ride this. I wish I lived in an area with more unicyclists so I could make sure I am at least at total fault for falling and not my uni. Is it better to pedal using your arch or your toes? I try to keep good posture when I am pedaling, but like I said before I move right and left a but more then I thought I would, any possible problems if you think the seat post is not at fault?

if you have your heel on the pedal, then your leg should be pretty much completely straight at the low point of the rotation. then, when you ride normally, you will have the ball of your foot more or less over the axle of the pedal, and your leg should be more comfortably extended.

as for twisting, because of seat length. you will do this anyway if you are putting too much weight on your pedals, regardless of seat height. it’s a little scary at first but you should be putting most of your weight on the seat, and just putting enough weight on the pedals to make the wheel rotate. once it gets started moving, you need suprisingly little force to keep it going.

but don’t listen to me, i’m a perma-noob :wink:

rethinking my comments, it is possible that i was a little bit harsh about over-cutting. if you are really having trouble riding, by all means take a little more off. just leave enough post so that you can move the seat up by at least an inch (or two), when you get over those intial learning steps.