Hacksawed the frame legs. Grinded a curve in the bottom of the legs at equal length much shorter than original. Welded with crappy fluxcored welder. Grinded down hideous fluxcore welds. Next step, someone buy me a MIG and a TIG welder with actual settings, not 1-4 on heat and 0-10 on feed.
There is about 2mm clearance. 1mm at the bob in my tire, time to true up my wheel.
My issue with the frame was… I’ve been trying to learn wheel walking lately… and all the paint on the corners of the frame crown has worn off… because my feet hit the frame. This makes it very hard for me to learn wheel walking… as my feet kept hitting the frame and not the tire… maybe I’m not doing it right, but I know when I learn gliding later on… I’ll have even more problems…
Anyways, it looks much nicer now. When I get it painted sometime in the next 20-30 years, I’ll post up some pictures of the whole unicycle. I also cut off and ground down the brake mounts… who the hell needs them? plus they wouldn’t work now that there is… 1.5" taken off of both frame legs!
Also, if I get a new tire, I’m going to have to shim the wheel for sure But I plan on running this one till it’s a slick.
I prefur the head-bob method to get the helmet down and a standard helmet (non auto-darkening). Im going to make one of those frames I posted a pic of for a trials wheel soon, I will post pics of it when its done.
Wow I really need to do that to my '07 KH muni, but it’s aluminum not steel. There’s at least 1.5" of unnecessary clearance above the [Duro] 3.0 tire! It may also be because the duro leopard is lower profile than the gazz; I didn’t notice the huge gap until after I changed it to the Duro. I’d like to reduce the clearance to around 1/4".
And btw, with the LM rim the gazz wouldn’t fit anyway, so I won’t be going back to that tire. I actually now prefer the duro/LM combo even though the duro is heavier than the gazz, but it’s also way more stable and doesn’t get all distorted after drops like the gazz did.