Secure aerobar installation

Does anybody have any tips on mounting aerobars? I tried to replicate the setup in the following link, but the bars are not secure at all. KH T-Bar + Aero bars

So if anybody has mounted aerobars, please let me know how you did. Thanks

are they rotating around the t-bar? pvc around aluminum sounds slippery to me.

The aerobars I got fit directly on the t-bar and I’ve had no issues. I usually leave them just tight enough that I can pull on them when I need to, but loose enough that they twist and absorb the the shock in an upd.

did you cut a notch in the pvc? that’s the only way you can clamp it down.

I’ve been using the Profile T2+ aerobars for about a year, and would never go back to just the T handle. But I use the plastic mounting shims that came with the aerobars, plus knurled metal shims I got from my LBS. They keep them snug and firmly in place.

This also allows me to still have my bar ends on each side of the T, just turned backwards and flairing to the outside. I use these for mounting which is easier than reaching farther for the aerobars.

T2 aerobars video:

DSC01193.JPG

Sorry to bump an old thread! :smiley: I went to about four bike shops today to try and find a shim like what you have described here terry. All said they have never heard of such a thing. What exactly is that called if I were to try and find one online? Really want to mount some areo bars before my next century.

I believe these are it: http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=7414&category=2680

However a 2’ section of PVC costs ~$2 at Home depot and works great.

I just barely put a set of clip ons on tonight as a matter of fact, and with the PVC there is no slippage.

Ill will have to try that thanks!

i use 2 plastic shims to fit my bars,

under normal strain they will not move but they can be forced to move via a sudden hard pull. In the event of a UPD they fold upwards and out the way.

Most new Aero bars come with alloy spacers, at one stage when i needed a second set for some visions i had i spend $19 to buy some one piece ebay ones just for the shims!!!
Personally i prefer alloy shims to plastic ones. You can work out the thickness required and probably make spacers from any material the right guage

Cant wait to mount mine again on my next build!! they look and work soooo coool :sunglasses:

Mine came with alloy spacers and they were all the wrong size. I could have bought metal shims, but why would you when PVC is so cheap?

Me personally, I prefer plastic or rubber shims. I feel that they are more forgiving and won’t scratch the hell out of your bars.

I would prefer to use a alloy. I don’t mind the scratching if I can get a solid grab on the bar. I even contemplating drilling through the nimbus bar and running a hard through the areo’s and nimbus bar end. Decided that what too much fabricating.

alloy will scratch yes. but only if it moves when its already tightened. Which in very unlikely.

plastic will never scratch which is great but can move even when tightened.
Teflon even moreso. Its so slippery. Pvc and Pe can be too. Carbon i might consider but for clamping things together and the purpose of being held strong and having these leverage forces applied i like my soft non slipping alloy.

ok say it hits the deck or i went whimpy on tightening and it scratches, i struggle to see it because unless very unlucky its mostly always going to be under when it is clamped.

besides its a tool first, trophy second. If i have a Ferrari i would need to expect it wont be a perfect trophy forever if i use it at intended.

parading my Uni on my roof racks or shredding trails no one sees small imperfections one i no are they, annoying me day to day but i need to remember, tool first, trophy second. Dont be upset with minor un preventalbe cosmetic damages. I used to get a new grey hair every time something appeared… Im too young for grey hair!!!

I installed a set of carbon fiber Profile Design aero bars last March. I purchased mine off Craigslist and they didn’t come with the shims, so I called Profile and they sent me a set, free of charge. I still needed to shim it up a bit. I cut up a used bicycle inner tube. I tightened it up just enough that it works kind of like a shock absorber during an UPD. I installed rubber cane tips on the ends of the aero bars. During the rare times that I do UPD, the tips hit and then the aero bars just move up. Because my aero bars move, they would, over time, wiggle off the T handle. So I went to Ace Hardware and purchased expandable rubber grommets and added a stainless steel washer. You want the stainless steel washer to be slightly bigger than the diameter of the handle. Basically, it is a bolt with a thick rubber washer. The rubber washer thingy, fits inside the ends of the T handle and when you tighten the bolt, the rubber washer expands. I don’t think that is the proper name, so I included a picture below.

Like Terry, I’ll never go back to just a T handle. I find that it helps get some of the weight of the saddle on the long rides. I’m also learning to use it for steep hills. There’s a small learning curve, but the idea is to use your upper body weight to get the saddle closer to the street which then, encourages faster pedaling up hill.

[QUOTE=muni tasmania;1603289]
alloy will scratch yes. but only if it moves when its already tightened. Which in very unlikely.

plastic will never scratch which is great but can move even when tightened.
Teflon even moreso. Its so slippery. Pvc and Pe can be too. Carbon i might consider but for clamping things together and the purpose of being held strong and having these leverage forces applied i like my soft non slipping alloy.

ok say it hits the deck or i went whimpy on tightening and it scratches, i struggle to see it because unless very unlucky its mostly always going to be under when it is clamped.

besides its a tool first, trophy second. If i have a Ferrari i would need to expect it wont be a perfect trophy forever if i use it at intended.

parading my Uni on my roof racks or shredding trails no one sees small imperfections one i no are they, annoying me day to day but i need to remember, tool first, trophy second. Dont be upset with minor un preventalbe cosmetic damages. I used to get a new grey hair every time something appeared… Im too young for grey hair!!![/QUOTE

I used to be the same way with my guni. More so my uni seats.(did not want to chop em up. Then I realized it did not matter functionality meant more to me than aesthetics. I tried both the rubber bike tube in the past and that did not work. The pvc did not seem to give me a tight enough hold. Well at first it would until I really put my weight on it, it started the decent. I guess this means I need to get those metal shims. Does anyone know what size to buy for Nimbus Shadow bar to the T-2 areo bar with shim(26mm)?

I used to be the same way with my guni. More so my uni seats.(did not want to chop em up. Then I realized it did not matter functionality meant more to me than aesthetics.

I’ve tried the rubber bike tube in the past with no avail.

I did the pvc method today and it did not seem to give me a tight enough hold. Well, at first it seemed to hold until I really put my weight on it, it started the decent. I guess this means I need to get those metal shims. Does anyone know what size shims to buy for Nimbus Shadow bar to the T-2 areo bar with shim(26mm)? Thanks for all the help.

Finally got these bad boys mounted and am loving it! Thanks Killian for the advice. Took about 5 minutes $2 and was done. :smiley:

What did you end up with? I thought the PVC wasn’t working…

I cut some grooves on the inside and out of the pvc and that seemed to work. I have done some short rides with it and so far really enjoy it.