Schwinn Giraffe - safety issue

General
1

A few years ago & had to have some work done on my schwinn giraffe ('77). It was
disassembled & when the uni was put back together (the lower sprocket & “lock
ring” --think this is the name for it) they put on a lubricant between these
parts then tightened the ring. I hadn’t taken it for a test ride then in my show
it kept slipping, but after finally attempting to free mount it several times, I
actually tightened it, but not for long because it slipped again. Fortunately,
no kids were around me, but I realized the danger involved w/an improper
assembly of a chain driven unicycle. I was later told by Tom of the unicycle
factory that I needed to put red locktight between this area or weld it but I
can’t remember why.

Again, I recently had to take apart this area again to replace a spoke; i warned
the bike store that I probably needed locktight but they insisted their
tightening job was ample & thought the old locktight help–since they didn’t lub
it. When I test rode it, it was fine, but only did so for a minute. Today in my
show, it slipped again.

How can I explain to these bike stores the reason why I need red locktight??
Unfortunately, I don’t have the tools or vice to do this work myself.

I think this same problem exists with some of the cheaper brands & this concerns
me because it poses a real danger to others if something were to happen & the
unicycle shot out into a crowed.

Unicycle Lady http://users.aol.com/unilady/

2

RE: Schwinn Giraffe - safety issue

> warned the bike store that I probably needed locktight but they insisted their
> tightening job was ample & thought the old locktight help–since they didn’t
> lub it. When I test rode it, it was fine, but only did so for a minute. Today
> in my show, it slipped again.
>
> How can I explain to these bike stores the reason why I need red locktight??

You don’t. Tell them that the customer (you) demands red Locktite. Yes red. Not
green, not purple with orange stripes. The reason the customer demands it is
unimportant. What should be important to them however, is that if they don’t,
the customer could fall suddenly and break a wrist or shatter an elbow (two
known giraffe injuries coming from similar situations) as a result of their
insufficient tightening.

As Dustin Kelm explained, the early Schwinn Giraffes used a track hub, which is
fine if you only pedal it in one direction. But like a pair of pedals, if you
pedal in both directions it’s not the same story! Schwinn figured this out fast
(aware of the liability situation, even back in the 70’s) and changed the design
on later models.

I had a similar problem a few years ago. My friend and I had acquired six
Schwinn Giraffes from an elementary school that no longer used them. We offered
them for sale, but first I had them overhauled and asked the bike shop to
tighten the crap out of them (at Tom Miller’s suggestion) with red Locktite
(permanent). They said okay, but the idiots used green Loctite (removable). I
test-rode one in the parking lot and the sprocket rotated instantly, almost
causing me a nasty fall on my first idle after mounting.

It was a big bike shop, and I waited until I had the attention of a more senior
mechanic before I explained anything else. Telling them you almost got hurt
seems to be good incentive these days.

Remind the mechanics that it is not a bicycle, and doesn’t absolutely follow
bicycle rules. That sometimes helps too.

You should consider having the welding done, or a new wheel. For professional
use, the screwed-on sprocket is not such a great idea.

Stay on top, John Foss, the Uni-Cyclone (reply to jfoss@unicycling.com)
http://www.unicycling.com

“The ultimate wheel? It feels so good. It’s the ultimate feeling.”

  • Jack Halpern
3

Re: Schwinn Giraffe - safety issue

The sprocket found on most giraffes are made and designed for bicycling. When
bicycling, the force from the chain to the sprocket is just in one direction
(pedaling forward) so the sprocket is designed to be tightened when a force is
put on that direction, however if force is put on it the other way, then it will
loosen. So on a giraffe, when you put force in the backwards direction (which
you have to do to stay on and do tricks) it will get looser. Therefore you have
to lock it in place with lock-tite or by welding it.

    ___________ =========================================== ___ /_/ / / / /
    Kevin Gilbertson - <a href="mailto:mail@gilby.com">mailto:mail@gilby.com</a> / _ '/ / / _'\_ / Unicycling
    T-shirts at <a href="http://www.gilby.com/">http://www.gilby.com/</a> \_ /_/_/,___/ / AIM/AOL:
    UnicyclingGilby /\/ /__________/ Unicycled Across Minnesota to help
    others! \__/ ================================================
4

Re: Schwinn Giraffe - safety issue

In article <0.1b24d368.256a0266@aol.com>, Unilady@aol.com writes:
>A few years ago & had to have some work done on my schwinn giraffe ('77). It
>
>was disassembled & when the uni was put back together (the lower sprocket &
>“lock ring” --think this is the name for it) they put on a lubricant between
>these parts then tightened the ring. I hadn’t taken it for a test ride then in
>my show it kept slipping, but after finally attempting to free mount it several
>times, I actually tightened it, but not for long because it slipped again.
>Fortunately, no kids were around me, but I realized the danger involved w/an
>improper assembly of a chain driven unicycle. I was later told by Tom of the
>unicycle factory that I needed to put red locktight between this area or weld
>it but I can’t remember why.
>
>Again, I recently had to take apart this area again to replace a spoke; i
>warned the bike store that I probably needed locktight but they insisted their
>tightening job was ample & thought the old locktight help–since they didn’t
>lub it. When I test rode it, it was fine, but only did so for a minute. Today
>in my show, it slipped again.
>
>How can I explain to these bike stores the reason why I need red locktight??

I.N.O.U. (Idiots Not On Unicycles)… Argh. I know the feeling of trying to get
help from bicycle shops that dont know anything about unicycles. The
problem you have is one that Schwinn took care of on later models by
bolting the sprocket to the hub. The screw on style sprocket with a
lock ring is borrowed from track bicycles that travel in one direction
and dont have to worry about much reverse torque except for an
occasional track stand. Using red loctite as Tommy suggested is a
solution that will work for most unicyclists. Loctite and the “ample
tightening” will probably do the trick.

> Unfortunately, I don’t have the tools or vice to do this work myself.
>
>I think this same problem exists with some of the cheaper brands & this

This is called cutting corners. Unfortunately I’m dealing with this same problem
on my Not So Cheap Semcycle 6ft. The red loctite will hold up to about a month
of strenuous use if i’m lucky. My sprocket will usually slip when i’m getting
out of the side ride, this puts a lot of torque on the sprocket in the oposite
direction that it screws on. The only real solution (also what Sem told me to
do) is to have the sprocket welded to the hub. A couple problems with this are
that it makes it difficult to change spokes and i havent been able to find
anyone willing to do the weld. Everyone is afraid of damaging the hub.

Unicycles arent supposed to feel like they have freewheels!

keep on trying, dustin klem unicycling productions www.dustin.kelm.com

(remove the BICYCLE from the above address to send me your brain waves)

isa 40:29-31