Firstly I have trawled the details of all pedal threads on this forum so I know there are as many questions about good pedals as there are about what size wheel is advisable.
However I’m in a quandary re what kind / grip of pedal would be best for the new Schlumpf builds pending.
I am aiming at a nice, high end pedal too, to befit the overall wheel that’s being propelled by said pedal.
My short list:
Hope F20s - well liked, moderate grip, serviceable A grade
Race Face Atlas V2 - slim, high grip, adjustable pins with included washers, A++ for serviceable, inboard bearing (could this be bad for shifting/good for accidental shifting?)
Oneup Aluminium (Oil Slick appeals ) - very very grippy, but convex - could be good for some flex for shifting?, A+ serviceable, inboard bearing slightly slimmer than Race Face Atlas
Gosh, you know us too well. My reply would have been “what about clipless? ”
So I have not ridden a lot my Schlumpf hubs with flat pedals. But what I can say is that you’ll need some grip so that your feet won’t be ejected from the pedals on shifts.
It’s ok perhaps by 2030 I’ll have been converted by the clipless crowd here
Yeah I don’t like slippery pedals but I once had the DMR Vaults and found them too grippy.
I’ll probably have to just try and test one of these lot and see how they go.
I do ride with Five Tens, and we have to admit that aesthetics do play a part - well they do for me, so something about oil slick and a Flansberrium frame that seems like a nice combo.
Five Tens are known to be very grippy on lots of pedals so I’m not surprised about your feel.
BTW, I may have some inputs to this point: I don’t think having super grippy pedals is a downside for being able to shift. I guess that even with the grippiest pedals you’ll found, you’ll still have more side-to-side freedom to shift than with road clipless pedals. @toutestbon now trains with road clipless pedals, and I don’t think he reported any issue to shift. So having grippy pedals should really not be an issue.
The Hope F20s I have on a couple of unicycles have taken a bit of a beating from getting dropped and going sliding across the ground. They are machined from solid and pretty substantial along the outer edge.
The RaceFace ones look like they might not be so good at getting dropped (sharp edge which might wear more) and look like they might be cast.
Likewise your oil-slick finish on the OneUp might not like getting scrubbed on the ground (and they also look like they may be cast) – to be fair the Hope anodising doesn’t do to well with that either though!
Dropping it might not be such an issue for you though.
Thanks for this Maxence - this is reassuring and I can see the value of grip.
Nearly had a bad UPD when my foot got bounced up and half slid off the pedal. So I’d prefer some glue and learn to shift better.
Good points all round. I’ve got to remember that they are designed for bikes and bikes are less likely to bounce when they fall on the pedals, unlike how a uni dances during a UPD.
I am resigned to the fact any pedals finish is temporary and some may fair better than others, look worse faster.
Do you think cast pedals are by their nature weaker?
In general that seems to be the case (because of the grain structure in the casting) – I don’t have any specific evidence for pedals, but I’d think it would be just the same.
I see RaceFace say their Atlas pedals have a lifetime warranty so you can maybe beat them up as much as you want – they do look rather nice.
If you end up buying a set of these check which version you get. I was looking at the price of them online and saw that the outer end of the spindle/endcap was different on the ones I was looking at (looked at CRC and Wiggle). The new version is relatively new so there will still be a folk selling the old ones:
I wouldn’t personally care if it takes 30 seconds or 2 minutes to take apart however, any pedal that you can get complete replacement parts for is equally “repairable” in my opinion, I haven’t seen any pedals that would be difficult to rebuild for anyone who can turn an allen wrench. It’s a once every year or so kind of job, I wouldn’t make saving a few minutes there a big decision point.
Don’t really think I’m worried about saving minutes but more the inclination to actually do it.
Barrier to entry is a thing - as in: if it’s easy one might do it often or at the minimum level - whereas if more involved, this just might be enough to put you off doing it.
And I guess I like a design that has ease of use baked in, it kind of speaks to the faith the designers have in what they’re building.
But yes any pedal with spares is going to be repairable - however I have seen some rebuilds that do look overly complex or proprietary by nature.
If I end up getting these I’ll focus more on reviewing how the feel when riding - not repairing
) - very very grippy, but convex - could be good for some flex for shifting?, A+ serviceable, inboard bearing slightly slimmer than Race Face Atlas
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