Looks strange that you still need to modify your KH frame to fit this thing. That was the biggest downside of Schlumpf for me so far.
And congrats to both of you… now you have two unis in one, as both gears ride so different. But with time you’ll tame their nature and they will unify as one again.
Like pierrox said you should check if it doesn’t come from the frame or from the knobs stuffs
If not, you just have to re-true your wheel
It’s not a so big deal, it just takes time and patience.
when the Left/Right begins to be good you have to make the up/down truing (roundness) and then returning to the left/right, and so on until it’s good enough.
This is my DIY “tool” 
I recently re-tightened my spokes (it was very loose) and so had to true my wheel, since my wheel is very silent and rolls well.
Edit: the bit of blue tape on a spoke is here to easily find one of the spokes that are well centered, so that this spoke can be used as a reference spoke
KH frames produced before 2012 (any of the KH frames without a disc brake tab) will need modification - both to reduce the width of the bearing housing (from 22 to 20 mm) and to grid of the lip on the underside half of the bearing clamps. But newer KH frames should not need modification.
Funny, that looks like a post 2012 frame (can see disc brake tabs on one of the other photos) but the lower half of the bearing clamp has a lip. That is not standard spec. It is possible it was supplied by mistake; the only possible consequence being for the geared hub (this detail doesn’t matter for anything else). Having a 20 mm, not 22 mm, wide bearing housing does matter for installing the disc brake because otherwise the disc rotor bolts rub slightly on the frame. I can’t tell the width of the bearing housing in the photo but I would be more surprised if that was not 20 mm.
Hi Kris, thanks a lot for your feedback.
My frame actually doesn’t have disc brake tabs, but v-brake tabs.
I guess this explains why it is not a supported model.
Regarding the 20-22 mm width, I didn’t find anything wrong with the bearing fitting onto the clamp so I guess it’s ok and no modification needed there to be made. Please correct me if my assumption is wrong.
The only modification done was to grind off 0.5 mm from the lower clamp on the lip sides.
I’m currently unable to post the pics of the installation but I will as soon as it’s possible.
Thanks again 
Thanks for sharing.
Regarding the tyre rubbing the frame issue, did you use a wheel dish (centering) tool to check the relation between the dish and the hub?
I didn’t know this tool until actually building the wheel from scratch with an expert who’s a friend of mine:
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/wheel-dishing-centering#article-section-1
I just centered my wheel in the frame. There’s not much clearance on both sides and when I push the pedal hard while pulling on the handle on the same side, the tire rubs against the frame, no matte which side. So maybe I’ll have to cut the outer knobs.
I bought the all in one package as well now. KH29 with the geared hub.
Can anyone give any tips how to keep my balance while changing gears? I also have brakes on my current uni, which I never use, but accidentally touched while riding. That put me off-balance instantly. Do you slow down to shift gears or are yous all so experienced, you can just do it on the fly with whatever speed?
For the balance: practice, hundreds of miles with a lot of shifting will do the job.
The only tip I can give is using no shorter cranks than 150s until you masterise it.
For the break I use it when I want to shift from 2nd to 1st gear in a short distance, you have to slow down before shifting in low gear.
It also is better to shift in high gear when you are allready pedaling moderately fast, the transition is smoother.
Also the shifting process doesn’t necessary happen imediately, you have to wait for the shifting even if you have pedaled several strokes because it can still happen. The shifting only happens when the torque is low so it is a kind of random process.
Sometimes the shifting is perfect and you barely notice it.
In my experience, you can up-shift at pretty much any speed. Down-shifting is different. Keep in mind that your pedal rotation must increase quickly to match the new gear ratio. I like to slow down substantially before down-shifting. As mentioned, there’s a lag that you have to get used to. (Also, sometimes you may get an “incomplete” shift. I think it’s from not pushing the button hard enough. Anyway, it kind of goes into a freewheel, and that throws me right off. Does anybody else get that?) I still sometimes UPD off the front when down-shifting even when everything seems to be going smoothly.
Mostly, just do it a million times and you’ll get it. (pretty much like all the other unicycle skills :p)
Good luck!
Ok thanks. Good to know such things, before it arrives. So when it is in neutral, it is a way to learn coasting without having to leave the pedals with your feet. I’m still too chicken to take my feet of them while riding.
No. There is no such “neutral” position.
Question about the hub… not the latest, but the very first iteration. I have the opportunity of perhaps getting hold of a first generation hub for a decent price. It’s been fully serviced by Florian. I know the main difference is they have smaller bearings. Any other problems or weaknesses I should be aware of? In other words, is it a good ticket into Guni, or should I just avoid it at all cost?
Technically the 2016 model is about the 4th generation:
First: some bearing durability issues, quite a few returns.
Second (year or so after initial release): bearing durability issues fixed. Hard to tell the difference from the First gen visually.
Third: dust cap added, bearing durability further increased. This is a fine and durable choice unless you plan to run a disc brake, in which case you’re better off with the 2016 model.
Fourth: 2016 model
Didn’t know about the two first models, sn is 0133, so I guess it’s not an early early one.
Why would a disc brake be a problem on an non-2016?
The previous model pre-dated the advent of disc brakes and required some frame modifications to make it fit. It’s a bit of a hassle; easier to just use a disc brake.
One of the major upgrades on the 2016 was to lengthen the axle slightly so that it matches that on the Spirit and Nimbus hubs, and add a spacer to the outside of the bearing (plus a design adjustment so the bearing wasn’t subject to lateral loads). That means you can switch out the geared or ungeared wheelsets in an external disc brake setup without problem.
The hub pierrox is talking about is this one:
According to this post : 📜 [Wiki] Schlumpf hub serial numbers reference - #421 by gmerick
So if the M133 has been replaced by the M0233, where the hell is supposed to be the M133?
By the way M00133 = M133?
And finally which generation is the M133 from the pic?