I prefer 110/125’s for 29er MUni, and 125/150 for G26er-ing. For extreme technical I still ride my 24 with 150’s for the added control doing 6+ foot drops and navigating through rock gardens.
Hiker: That’s badass dude! 
I’ve heard good things about the Street. That is what Kris recommends for distance touring. Not too much to the Slim (very thin, much less padding) in comparison to the Freeride saddles on my MUni’s. Then again, padding is the enemy after so many miles. I might steer you into the direction of the Street so you get the new (for June of 2012) leather seat cover though the mesh cover on my Slim does a much better job of utilizing the relief channel. And that, is what is really important after long periods in the saddle.
I would need a thumb shifter mounted on the handlebar with 180’s.
I ride 150s for almost everything - 24 DH, 24 guni, 36 guni, 29er. Anything longer than 150 would be too hard to shift gears with. I tried 125 on my 24 guni. It was doable, but too easy to shift and too hard on the rough stuff. I ride my 36 guni primarily on pavement with some excursions on easy off-road. I am pretty happy with 150s, but want to give 137s a try for easier shifting (hopefully not TOO easy), and faster speed (maybe a good idea or maybe not).
would a more rounded area around the shiftier button make it easier to shift?
Now I understand why your 26er gets more trail time, those cranks are way to short for 29er muni! Minimum for managing that big wheel is 137’s and even then there are lots of unclimbable hills, 150’s create a nice balance without being wonky, but for real power you need a long crank which is why I run a 137/165.
Terry, are you still riding a 36er off road?
No, you don’t want it too easy or too hard, works fine as it is, but a remote shifter mounted on the grab handle would rock!
I now have a challenge!
Speaking of remote shifting, has anyone considered how that might work?
What if there was a shifting lever on the hub body, with a corresponding shifting fork mounted on the frame leg, remotely operated from a shifter on the handle.
You depress the shifter on the handle, which moves the shifting fork down, then as the hub rotates the shifting fork strikes the shifting lever, then the hub shifts.
To shift the hub back, you do the same.
It would so much easier and simple than shifting with your foot, and far more predictable, with fewer accidental shifts.
I’m kinda suprised this hasn’t already evolved as it would solve a huge number of issues, of course it would also require a complete redesign of the hub…at which time I might get my 1:1.3 gear ratio 
My G26er gets more trail time because it’s waaaaaaay more fun and versatile than my 29er! But before I got into the G-game, I rode the HELL out of my 29er and in fact made many videos where i was riding technical trails, doing drops, pretty much what i did on my 24. But The 110 hole was hardly used on my 29er, unless the terrain was smooth, flat or downhill. The 125’s were used the most in the months prior to getting my GUni.
Yes, I still sometimes ride my 36er off road, but still prefer my G26er, as it pulls double-duty as a standard 26er, and then transforms to a virtual 40" wheel, eclipsing the 36er in speed and sheer exhilaration! Plus, the G26er handles tech, drops and climbing (in 1:1) far better than a huge 36’’ wheel. Just a totally different experience, but I enjoy both. 
Edit: I always envisioned a wireless shifting mechanism, involving servos in the hub, and a button under the lift handle to shift by means of remote control.
So I have 29er Schlumpf wheel build on order from Bronson Silva:D. It will not be ready for awhile, but I have a few questions and I may aswell ask them now to be prepared for when my wheel arrives.
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There seems to be varying opinions on optimal crank bolt torque; 40-45NM (30-33 ft lbs) seems to be the most reccomended torque; is there any reason I should do any different? I will be running a disk brake.
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I feel dumb asking this one because I have not seen it asked elsewhere, but I would rather be thought dumb than break a $1,500 dollar hub. When torquing the bearing caps, how exactly is it done? Specifically, there are two bolts per bearing cap, if one is tightened first, it will “bottom out” against the frame and there will be a larger gap between the frame and bearing cap on the other bolt’s side. Should both bolts be moderately screwed in, then torque each to 5-6 NM? Sorry if this is stupidly simple and I am just overlooking something…:o
I had to file my caps a little to give me a little gap … invest in a couple of torque wrenches, its cheaper and easier than getting the hub fixed when you break it!!
I would stay closer to 28-30 ft lbs. Anything over 30 and you’ll round out the hex slot in the center of those bolts. I doubt it would damage the frame, but those bolts are expensive (and difficult to remove once stripped).
Thanks for the quick replys!
Alan- I am most definitely planning on getting torque wrenches, my question is more about how to properly torque on the bearing caps because there are two bolts for it. I am assuming that both bolts should be partially screwed in, then bring them up to 5-6 NM one at a time… Is this correct?
Adelman- Cool beans! just wanted to check!
Thanks again, guys!
Best is to install the cranks with a hollow 8 mm ISIS bolt (or, ideally, the special 8 mm hex bolt that now comes with the hub), tightening that to 40-45 Nm. The shifter rod fits inside the bolt, so doesn’t damage it. Then remove it and install the bolt that you’ll use when riding. Personally I tighten that to only 30 Nm, using plenty of blue loctite on the threads. I do suggest checking it fairly regularly but I have not had issues with either stripping or the bolt coming loose, with this setup. Definitely use a torque wrench.
In terms of tightening the bearing caps, I tighten them both equally. There should still be a small gap between them once tightened.
Kris
Thanks, Kris. Good to hear from the pro himself!
I figured it was simple; I guess I was just over- complicating things:p Looking forward to my hub!
I had to use a lower torque and loctite to get my disc brake to work on my 36 Schlumpf. At 40-50 there was never going to be enough clearance.
I should also add:
The fit of Spirit cranks with the KH/Schlumpf hub is not perfect, in terms of fitting a disk brake.
The current geared hub model lacks a spacer between the bearing and crank (and adding one is not recommended). Because the ISIS spline has a 1 degree taper, simple trigonometry will tell you that extremely slight variations in manufacturing tolerance on the axle or crank splines can result in differences in lateral crank position, and hence lateral disk rotor position. None of this is an issue on the Moment single speed hub because the spacer setup keeps the crank in the same place every time.
In 4 geared unis that I use (excessive, I know, but there it is =)), some work perfectly with a disk brake with no modifications required, and on one the cranks install quite far on - I’d have to grind a lot of the outside face of the frame off to stop the rotor bolts from hitting the frame. These are things we’ll work on in future hub R&D, but that won’t happen for a long time because there are still lots in stock and these hubs still sell in small quantities).
Regardless of disk brake use, the Spirit cranks are a worthy upgrade over the Moments in that they are both lighter and the frame clearance is also better, when installing on a geared hub.
Kris
I look at the gap as I am tightening the caps and keep it level. As I am getting close the 5nm torque I only do about 1/4 - 1/2 a turn on each the swap, I think that gets it pretty even
When I first read that I thought you have a hub with 4 gears in it and thought wow when is that coming out!! … my mistake, will have to stick to 2 gears for now 
I didn’t see the answer to this question. A KH M12 crank bolt is longer than 12mm. Is this a problem? If so can you just put a few washers on it?
Good question. I would recommend using a standard ISIS bolt or the installation bolt that comes with the hub. The “12” in M12 is the bolt diameter; 20 mm length or less is standard.
Moment and Nimbus hubs come with a 25 mm long ISIS bolt, to fit the Rollo disk.
Kris