So I got the frame this afternoon. I did have to file down the welds on the inside of the bearing caps so that the frame would not rub on the Schlumpf seals. I thought this was something Kris had dealt with in the factory on newer frames… Also, on the knurled bearing side, I had to file down the top of the bearing cap since it was hitting the frame before getting it to the requisite 5-6Nm. I think I had to do this since they are machined and don’t have any paint on them. (I didn’t want to have the same problem Terry had with his stripped frame.) Other than that, it was a pretty easy setup. Also, the clearance between the the rotor bolts and the bearing cap is probably less than 1mm; a little nerve-racking. I had to cut down the frame too because I’m short, but that was simple with a hacksaw and a guide.
Good to hear it worked. Murphy’s law I suppose, but on the 4 KH/Schlumpf hubs I have in my possession, they don’t rub although it is close.
Ideally, the KH/Schlumpf hub should have a solid crank stop between the bearing and crank. Because it doesn’t, there’s the potential for variability in the crank position. Because the ISIS spline has a 1 degree taper, simple trigonometry means that the slightest variation in spline diameter has a discernable effect on lateral crank position. At the same time, a 20 mm wide bearing housing is the narrowest that I dare go and still maintain strength.
On the inside of the frame, the current minimal clearance was based on a KH frame that Florian had, that didn’t rub. I think that had something to do with having a “Swiss perspective” on adequate tolerances. I thought I’d dealt with it in Taiwan last November, but it’s extremely tight and it looks like some frames still will rub slightly.
Really, the best solution will be to increase the clearance on a future model of the KH/Schlumpf hub. Will see. That is nowhere near being produced though, as there are currently plenty in stock.
Hey Scott, looks great! I might need to make that upgrade for my 36 guni. What crank length are you running now? Are those platform pedals? Did you move away from using the clipless?
I’m waiting on a 180mm rotor to arrive so I can fit your spirit cranks to my Triton. I’m fingers and toes crossed at this stage, because it looks like it will be a very tight fit- those disc bolts don’t clear the bearing caps by much do they?
Is it possible to grind down the crank to move the disc further outwards? That might be an option for me because I’m not too keen to trying to file titanium. Or perhaps in future models- can’t you move the disc further outwards? Or get Florian to make a longer axle.
You can’t grind the cranks - the rotor fits on the cranks such that there is 20 mm clearance between the rotor and the inside face of the crank. The max standard for disk calipers is 19 mm, so at least 1 mm clearance from the caliper to the crank arm. This is sized closely because there is a standard here to follow on the caliper, and to minimize the outwards flare of the cranks.
I believe that Turtle had to grind his Triton frame slightly.
Yes the KH/Schlumpf hub ideally needs to be about 4 mm longer (2 mm longer each side), IMO. Again that will be reviewed in future. Next time around I want the crank position to be identical to the Moment hub.
I’m not sure if Turtle will read this…but do you know if he had the Triton disc frame or if he used the bearing cap mounts?
Maybe I could grind the bolts. Anyway, I’ll find out on Monday if it fits.
The SINZ MTUni cranks rubbed against the brake adaptor…probably can be ground away but I hadn’t got around to doing that yet because I’m intending on using the Spirits (no spacer required).
My shifting is pretty consistent and I usually get it first time.
But sometimes I inadvertently do what I call a “slow shift”, which causes the wheel to “lag” for a moment before it engages. Several months ago, when this first happened, I wasn’t ready for it and because of the sudden lag, which is actually a very short coast, it threw me off. Since then I’ve been ready for that eventuality, and when it happens I can catch it and continue on.
At 1:04 you can see this “lag” in the wheel as I shift into high, and the wheel juts forward momentarily before I catch it. Sometimes this happens when the shift button is not engaged with enough direct pressure. It still shifts, but just not as fast, hence, the lag. Also, just to be sure the button is fully engaged, I usually “swipe” over it again on the next rev! I think it mostly likely happened this time because I was riding and filming at the same time, so I wasn’t fully focused on my riding.
Btw, this footage was actually made to test my new canon powershot Elph p&s camera. It’s super tiny but packs a wallop of great quality hd video and stills.
Just put 137 cranks on my 36 guni (instead of 150s). Took a short test ride. It is MUCH easier to shift. I’ll see how it goes on a real ride. Trying to decide what length I want to get with the new Spirit cranks and disc brake.
There might be some triples with 163/145/127 or a little less coming. I’m going to wait and see if it happens before ordering anything else.
I’m quite happy with 140mm Tensiles on both the G26 and G36 but I would love the triple option.
Not from KHU in the near term, if that’s what you’re thinking about, and it may not happen at all because so few riders (this forum notwithstanding) really want this in quantity. Even if it did, it would likely not be within a year. So it would be better to drill out existing cranks, for anyone wanting this quicker.
Well, that’s what I was hoping for. The thing is there is no Spirit crank that would allow for drilling a hole between 150 and 137mm unfortunately. 150 would be OK for most things, but really what I’m looking for the most is something halfway in between 165 and 150 for steep guni and around 140 for normal conditions both on the G26 and G36. The length of less than 137 wouldn’t be that interesting for geared riding IMHO. So maybe a dual 160/142 crank would be perfect.
I won’t completely say never, but currently, I unfortunately can’t see that length combination happening. Already there are so many models, and ultimately the divisions get too fine. The current lengths are pretty carefully picked to span the range for most riders. Sorry about that =(
So Kris, do you run 150/127 on your geared 26er or 165/137? Any thoughts about it? I used to have the dual 150/125 Moments on my 26er but I didn’t like the 125mm setting much and 150 seemed a little too much for most conditions.
For me 140 (maybe a little more) seems like a great all-round length but for steep uphill something longer around 160 would be useful.
I use 150 mm on my G26, currently. If I lived somewhere with smoother trails I might well switch to 137. In first gear, I’d never personally want longer than 150.
Thanks, I’ll think about it some more. Maybe 165/137 will be okay but it seems to be too long and too short while 150 would be longer than necessary for the DH and the flat high gear riding. Got to get some sleep now.
Here are pictures of 137mm Spirit cranks on my geared 36er. The right crank looks good (plenty of clearance just like the 150mm Moment crank it replaced) but the left Spirit crank is much closer (not rubbing, but less than a credit card’s width of clearance). I don’t see this posing a problem unless it creeps in down the road.
First time using my torque wrenches I’ve set the crank (using an Extra Long Bolt to “set” it) at 40Nm and the bearing housings at 5 Nm.
I used my Wiha factory preset torque screwdriver to reinstall the buttons and they do have a little bit of play underneath. By mistake, I totally “removed” instead of just “loosening” the tiny bolt (I think Florian calls it the M1 bolt) from inside of the first button that I removed but I quickly but it back in. Now I get the concept of “loosen” the bolt just enough so you can unscrew the button. Putting the buttons back on I had to deepen the insertion of the M1 bolt to get the button “pushed in” flush with the crank. I would assume this (the M1 bolt) is how one would go about creating more play underneath a “pushed in” button.
Took it out for a test ride today and I’m happy to report that (moving from 150mm Moment to 137mm Spirit) the heal of my size 10 FiveTen shoes can finally reach the shifting button without needing to ride on my toes though an accidental shift is now a distinct possibility. The Spirit has a nice angle just above the button whereas the Moment was square. Shifting is a breeze! Now, all I have to do is master high gear with shorter cranks. Thanks Kris! Good stuff!
Hey David, I am probably going to upgrade my 36 guni too. I too have been riding 150s and thinking about switching to 137s. Giving it a try with some 137 Moments I have before buying new Spirit cranks (and a disc brake). Yes, much easier to shift (but a little worried about accidental shifts).
I am also thinking of getting the Slim saddle (or maybe a Street saddle). How do you like the Slim?
There is of course a lot of differing opinions on crank length, but as I have gradually increased in wheel size and tire width, I find a longer crank helps generate the extra leverage to propel the unicycle. This all for off road, muni:
For a 26er, guni or fixed, I found 137’s were fine for XC, but 150’s were better if there was a lot of steep climbs, 165’s would be too long for anytng but the steepest muni/DH, though I rode with a set up like that when I was learning.
For a 29er I have run as short as 137’s for XC, but 150’s were better for all around, though for the kind of riding I do (rocky, rooty, teep ups and downs) I have since gone to 165/137.
For my 36er muni I am currently running 175’s trials cranks which work amazingly well, but I started with 165 Moments, then transitioned to 170 QuAx Chromoly Street Cranks, before going to the Try All trials cranks. I just found some old stock Truvativ Luftalarm 180mm ISIS Jump Bike Cranks
I find that long cranks on a big wheel spin as well as shorter cranks onn a smaller wheel, at that’s the sensation, so for me the 36er with 175’s spins very similar to a 29er with 150’s.
