Yeah just curious if anyone had an update on the machining progress.
Figure delivery will be a bit but still hungry for info
I ended up emailing Florian a week or so back and then resent it again yesterday.
Got this reply:
thanks for some more patience. We had this problem with one single part, that is being rebuilt actually. The whole process is quite complex, I know the delivery date when all is working together properly.
I’d been previously advised by someone who should know a thing or two that it wouldn’t be later than November but now I feel it’s going to be exactly as long as this piece of string I am holding up as I type this message.
Yep after careful consideration I’ve decided to select a specifically long piece of string to symbolise how clearly and precisely we can gage work here and a delivery date is progressing.
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Thanks Felix,
When I made my order, my skills were not up to riding a G36 and probably still not, but I am getting more and more confident…
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No doubt anyone that’s ordered from Florian directly got this but - heck, why not get this out here for those ordering via UDC etc
Dear friends and unicycle customers,
long overdue my info on the current production flow!
We are still waiting for the one complex part that needs to be freshly manufactured again. Still material shortages and busy factories dictate the schedule, so we have to be happy to get the parts delivered again within a useful period. Then the gearboxes will go through the final production stages, which will once again take place on our premises.
I can’t give a definite delivery date yet, because the production of such a sophisticated gearbox is not just the assembly of umpteen individual parts, but a process where countless factors have to interact to ensure that the end result is perfect.
However, we are now on the right track and nothing more should happen!
Thanks again for your patience -
I will get back to you as soon as possible!
It’s news and that’s all that matters I feel. Reassuring to know this update - as I’ve never cared about a firm date, just a little update here and there 
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Hello,
here my experiences of 5 years and 30000km with Schlumpf.
My series M900 29 Schlumpf:
I got it new in Oktober 2017.
After about 6000km a crankbolt got loose. It was tightened with a torque wrench before.
After securing it with Locktight it happened no more.
In Oktober 2022 Florian changed the bearings at about 18500km.
Otherwise I had a few tube punctures and 3 worn out continental race king.
So no real problems.
My series 100 36 schlumpf with torquearm:
I got it in June 2019 second hand (not really used much) and modified it to 36.
At the beginnig the square tapper cranks at the mounting side always got worn out.
One time a I had to renew the crankbolts.
A modified sunrace crank broke in the middle.(lukiely i had just 2km to walk to work, were i was able to weld it.It was ok for riding 30 km home.)
Since modifying a spirit crank with a steel square tapper inlet, i hade no more problems.
The stealth rim got fractures at the spoke holes at about 9000km. But they are not getting worse.
In summer i changed the bearings at about 10000km. The outside bearings had to be fixed with locktight because the seat got to wide.
In November at about 12000km the planet carrier broke when i tried to shift up. I had to build a new one and hope it will last until my new schlumpfs delivery.
I had no punctures with the nimbus nightrider light. One time i grinded the profileshape round again.
So I think my game changer at unicycling is the geared hub. And in comparison of the two hubs I see the development to a reliable hub.
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Production is running now!
If no new surprises occur, we expect shipments to start in February 2023.
Thank you very much for your patience!
Quality and safety do not allow any compromises!
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I know. Exciting isn’t it.
Let’s hope no surprises occur. Roll on schlumpf day this February
Do people get good enough that they never miss a shift and can shift whenever they want?
I currently need a few revolutions before I can successfully get a shift in. Sometimes 3-4 revs if I am lucky, other times a lot more.
I’d never say never 
But you can definitely achieve 95+% of success if you keep training.
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I consider my shifting to be reasonably good with about 2 years experience and over 4000km’s. I can usually shift up/down in 1-3 revolutions. However sometimes it takes more and on very rare occasions I still UPD.
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@rogeratunicycledotcom gave me some tips and tricks for changing gears earlier this month, and he mentioned it would be a good exercise to “upshift, perform half a rotation, downshift, perform half a rotation, and upshift again”. So I assume some people can 
. (I’m already happy that I’ve now learned to switch gears at all, but I’ll still have to practice a lot to get it consistent.)
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The man knows its domain, that’s a good exercise! Do it a few times in a row each day, and you’ll be an absolute shift master in a few weeks!
Is it possible to reduce the force to push the shift buttons…?
I tested mine, and it takes 3.6 to 4.1kgf to shift. Not sure if this is a normal range.
I am thinking if it would be worth it to build an electronic shifter mechanism… 
There are a couple hand shift designs floating around.
If you enjoy building and engineering, sure, would be cool and I think it would be feasible, but a big amount of work.
If you only want reliable shifts - just practice, you’ll get results with much less time invested.
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Bearing roughness / noise
I’ve removed my wheel to change the tyre and do some proper oil clean up - first time in a couple of years. I had a feeling the wheel wasn’t rolling very smoothly, and turning the two bearings by hand it’s clear why - the black / smooth bearing side is rough to turn - both sound and feel. If I turn it slowly and gently it seems to jolt forward in small steps - about 20 all round, although not evenly spaced.
This is out of my familiarity zone - is this likely to be the bearing or could it be the gearing inside? I’m hoping the former.
If it is ‘just’ the bearing, then what would be the risk of just carrying on using it? If I ignore the sound and the uneven friction it turns OK, and I’ve been enjoying using the wheel recently and at last getting familiar with high gear. I don’t think this has got worse suddenly. Is it a bad idea to keep using it like this? How bad is too bad to keep riding?
I understand that a new bearing would require sending off to Florian, who I’m sure has his hands full with the new hubs, so I was hoping to be able to just ignore this for now and keep riding. But I don’t want to damage the hub itself.
Any thoughts?
Thanks
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Does this help?
Not sure I’d have the bravery to follow what Terry did here but at the same time it seems to have worked and was fairly easy.
As for riding with grinding sounds. It’s probably a risk of making things worse. But how great a risk no one can really tell.
Jakob Flansberry also does services of these hubs if needed I think - down the line.
But I’d first check the video and see if it sounds similar to your issue 
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Thanks Felix - will contemplate how brave I’m feeling, but that sounds to be a similar noise Terry’s was making to how my hub sounds now:
I’ve never known a bearing to come off that easily though - hope mine does!
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Electronic wireless shifter prototype working!
Shifter and switch on the handlebar/seatpost.
Shifting mechanism on each crank.
Lots of improvements still needed for sure…
Update: Test ride was quite interesting. Realize that the hub really needs to have very little load in order to shift.
Normally, I have to let up on my pedalling force in order to move my heel to shift. But now, it’s not needed, but it is still needed…
The 20 second video in the link shows the mechanism working.
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What mechanism are you using in the crank splined sockets to actually pull and push the shifting rod?