I ran out of Schlumpf’s grease and I wanted to know if the following type of grease is the current one used by Florian: Shell Gadus S2 V220 2
I found the “2” is related to NLGI consistency but wasn’t sure if it matters or not (since there is “0” type as well).
I do not remember the exact reference. However, several riders (including Pierrox) found some equivalent grease that were cheap (in the case of Pierrox it is some transmission grease).
Thank you @Pierrox.
Do you have any information regarding the Gadus S2 V220 00 grease maybe?
I am asking this, because I found a dealer that sells them in small package and reasonable price.
It also appears to be (at least according to Shell’s reference), similar to the Alvania grease which is no longer manufactured.
Last thing I wanted to know is if there’s any need of removing the old grease from the hub before injecting a new grease - especially if they are not the same exact type?
No info on the Gadus Grease, but MuniOrBust form the forums sells Shell Alvania Grease 0974 (formerly Alvania Grease GL 00) in 5ml syringes, which he says is approved by Schlumpf. I’ve purchased it from him and had no issues.
Yet another ‘Look how much hassle I went through to put a disc on my Schlumpf’ post
So here it is! My ‘older’ Schlumpf (knurled bearing era) with a disc brake, using standard KH stuff and a cheap Clarks-branded disc brake set from Chain Reaction Cycles (Is this their own brand, or just a cheapo Chinese thing?). I could’ve gone a bit higher end on the disc, but as I had no idea if this would even work, I didn’t want to go crazy with it. I had to scrap my rim brake when I built my new carbon wheel as it doesn’t have a brake surface, and I’ve been missing my brake since.
I torqued the rotor-side crank up to 40Nm, which is about as low as their ‘recommended’ specs go. I really don’t like the idea of under-torquing it as I’ve had issues related to that in the past.
This pic is of the bottom bearing cup, filed down to where I thought it had to go to, compared to the frame-side bearing cup filed down to where it all actually stopped rubbing. Pretty ridiculous, and it’s actually scooped out lower than the fork leg itself which is a bit worrying.
This is the caliper mount adaptor thing - the one that came with the brake was miles too thick so I got my file out again and went to town on it. I also had to swap out the stock bolts for this, as the ones that came with it were long enough to reach the end of the adaptor, so once I’d filed it down they stuck out and again jammed up the rotor.
All done and working! There’s no noise aside from what the hub’s always made. I did take this opportunity to take my file to the inside lips again to try and stop it rubbing there as well, so it’s all running nice and quiet for now, and again it’s all torqued up to spec so should hopefully not cause problems!
Probably not much on a unicycle because you don’t produce as much heat to the rotor as you would on a mountain bike which requires more braking force, especially when slowing down from high speeds. You can find several different threads on the topic mostly on mountain biking forums. Here is an example: <<The rotor arms keep outward force against the braking track when braking, keeping it inflated, or pushed outward. If the rotor gets hot and soft, and the disc spokes are backwards, it could collapse inward. Probably not an issue unless things get critical.>>
I did the same on a KH26 a few years ago. Since then I broke the shifting shaft twice under the same conditions (because of the ‘under-torquing’, the crank took some play, the shifting button unscrewed and when trying to shift in hight gear, the shifting shaft broke). I came back more than a year ago to the magura hs33 brake pad.
In my opinion, no version of the schlumpf hub is compatible with a disk brake…
Good luck and take care!
Luckily that is just your opinion, eight years with in frame disc on several of mine have saved the internals from reverse tourque damage and provided great braking.
Not to mention that the newer ones have much more clearance crank-side for an EDB setup without anywhere near as much grinding down
I’m a bit confused about the rear torque damage though. Is using the brake attached to the crank any worse for this than just slamming on with your feet to stop, which is how I’d be doing it without a disc?