My brake is similarly out in the front (even more so, with my extended handle). Surprisingly, I have yet to brake it by falling – even after a 1000 or so miles on the geared 24. However, I have my brake on a little adapter thing, which is slightly loose and moves a bit in hard crashes. I think that saves my brake from breaking.
Ironically, two days ago I snapped the magura line at the pad location when I was sticking it in the bed of my truck.
corbin
I have about 20 miles on mine. I should tighten the cranks. Here’s a question to show my mechanical ignorance 
. Do I need to loosen them first and then tighten them? Can I just put the torque wrench on and tighten it? I’m not sure if there are any rules about using the torque wrench other than I was told it was better not to loosen bolts with it.
My crank’s “slippage” problem seems to be fixed. Thanks for all the above advice. How often should I tighten cranks and bearing caps? I can probably look this up somewhere, but I’m hoping for a quick answer:D.
No need to loosen first, just cinch them down to the prescribed torque. I am up early tomorrow to try out my new brake and handlebar set-up on a trail that I think is made for guni.
You are quicker than I. I’m still riding with white knuckles on the seat handle. Today’s ride was more relaxed than the previous two days, though I’m still tense. I can’t imagine going off road in high gear yet. I did put my new seat and brakes on tonight. I would like to get a handle for it. I don’t like my brake forward with the handle though. I would like a handle that lets me keep the brake under the seat. Thanks for the torque info.
You need to get Pete (lunicycle) to make you one of his custom bars, which have the brake under the seat.
That is great the slippage is fixed, though it’s concerning to hear that you (and PeterG I think it was) had to modify the bearing caps so they could clamp the bearings sufficiently before the clamps hit the frame. Maybe something has changed a little with the newer frames?
Hard to say how often you need to check the bolts as imo there is a lot to be said for not messing around with the hub once things have settled down, limiting the chance to strip, round out crank bolts etc. Fwiw I check mine every four-six weeks or so now, but initially it was weekly, then fortnightly.
Like other guys I use blue loctite on both the bearing cap bolts and crank bolts - NOT the shift buttons though. Using loctite esp on the crank bolts is mentioned in the hub manual and discussed in a few threads e.g. Setup thread. It seems to be the trick when it comes to keeping the crank bolts tight, limiting the need to check them too often.
Important tip when tightening crank bolts - it’s mentioned in the Schlumpf manual but worth repeating to minimize the chance of rounding out/stripping the inside of the crank bolts:
Push the shifting shaft inwards using the Allen wrench to make sure that the wrench engages properly (fully).
Gotta do that, but even then I wish the crank tightening mechanism/process was a LOT more robust so you could check it whenever, swap cranks etc without worrying about damaging the crank bolts. Oh yeah, it’s a good idea to have a spare pair of crank bolts including buttons, just in case.
I have worked out a fix for the clamps and 2010 KH frame;)
I’m replacing the frame with a 26" Triton frame 
It’s going to be a Little different:D
More to come at a later date 
You might want to see if you can loosen your seat post and twist the seat one full rotation to the left. That way the brake line runs close around the seat post which minimises the chances of something catching and ripping it.
The somebody who lost a button, overlooked the instruction to tighten the little set screw in the middle. Without set screw, the button can easily rotate off. In other words, there’s no need to loctite the buttons.
With regards to getting the silver button off, I was gonna say put the gold button on again, and use it as a counterforce hold to unscrew the silver button. But then I read you got if off already.
Never going to loctite the buttons again. The problem was that once the first button was loose, it couldn’t provide enough resistance to break the other side loose. Not sure how I got it off. Lots of frustrating messing.
I have my 29er that way. I tried that on this uni, but the cable is a little short and gets pretty taut with the twist, which made me a little nervous.
I did adjust the handle so that it hits the ground first (at least on flat). I also leave the brake a little loose so that it moves if it does hit the ground.
Great guni ride this morning. There was a nice slightly downhill section without a lot of rocks which I absolutely was flying down - WoooHooo! Lots of MT bikers out this morn. Spent a lot of time talking to them. At one point I took off right behind 4 bikers. I was right behind them on some single track. When we hit some double track, I passed the 2 slower riders - that was awesome! I did hit the dirt a couple of times when I got leaned forward and tried to peddle the wheel back and did not quite make it. I also did a superman move and landed on my feet when I accidentally downshifted on a really steep descent
Hmmm, from the picture it seems that the brake attachment leaves little or no room for the brake handle to move backwards on impact.
It actually moves side-to-side. I do the same thing with the brake on my 29er which is mounted to the standard under-seat pipe. It works quite well. The only brake that I have broken was one that I actually stepped on in a UPD.
I am the one who did not screw the “set screw” with the 2mm Allen key, to secure the shift button setup in place and who lost as a result one shift button on the road. 
Florian actually shipped to my attention 2 spare shift buttons, which I received last week.
Interestingly enough, the payment for it is differed to September, as per Florian’s request, because it looks like he not even has got the bandwidth to process this type of “side” actions those days. I’m really glad he trusts me!
BTW, yes, I ordered 2 buttons (both silver) - because I wanted to use this opportunity to “silverize” the gold button, and by doing so make my Guni a little bit less “fancy” and “attractive”, for the potential thieves out there. And anyway I am not myself running after the gold finish at all…
I therefore completed the setup of my 26" Guni yesterday, and went for my first off-road Guni ride!
Well, in fact, my plan was to remove the slick tyre which I had used for the l’Alpe d’Huez climb the other day, and put instead the off-road tyre (because I’m primarily an off-road rider). But guess what? I just couldn’t find my torque wrench in my garage! At first, I went a bit crazy, realizing how unorganized I can be 
but did not want to cancel my ride for such a silly reason, so I went for my ride with the slick tyre - hoping that the dry ground and the relatively friendly tracks I had planned to ride would accommodate from a slick tyre.
Hey… it was my first “gearing while riding” experience ever on a unicycle!
Yes indeed, because I had done so far only one ride with both shift buttons on, and didn’t plan to practice the on-the-fly shifting that day. Since then, I was living with one single shift button, so had to forget about the great “gearing while riding” idea!
My very first (<10) attempts to shift on the fly were actually failures.
Either I could not change gear, or I changed it but could not stay on the unicycle after the gear changed. But then, probably because I was physically “hot” and perhaps less “intimidated” by the concept (more confident), I successfully did my first “low to high” on-the-fly shifting, and then the other way around (back to high gear), with the same success. What a satisfaction it was!
Strangely enough though, during the 2nd half of my ride, I just got less successful while trying to shift on the fly. Not that I could not adapt to the new gear and fell off - but rather that it became harder for me (my feet) to trigger the change of gears. Note that I am using pretty grippy pedals, and am wearing the Five-Ten Karvers shoes - which might partly (but partly only) explain why the shifting wasn’t that easy for me anyway.
I used 150mm cranks so far, and will give a chance to the 137’s, perhaps even 125’s, in the future rides, in order to learn where my preference is after all.
I did not have any hardware problems - excepted that my right crank would get loose every few kilometers. I will definitely plan to loctite the crank bolts once I will have “settle down” to the right pair of cranks. Well… “right pair of cranks” does not mean much, I’m afraid, and I’m sure I will regret a little the fact I’ll loose the flexibility of changing cranks depending on my rides.
In summary, it was a really fun and fruitful ride.
I feel like being one the first step of high stairs though, and will have to practice and practice and practice in order to (90%?) successfully shift on the fly and also shift in a safer way. I am really eager to (find back my torque wrench and) put the offroad tyre on!!!
In 4 weeks from now, I will fly to Tunisia with my Guni, and plan for a few rides which I think will be very enjoyable! I will just have to be careful with the heat of course, and avoid starting my rides too early (perhaps not before 5:00PM, like 5:00PM-to-9:00PM or so).
I’ll also post pictures of my Guni as soon as the off-road tyre will be mounted.
Cheers… MadC.
It is definitely going to take time to get shifting on the fly down. I had pretty good success on the upshifts, and a lot lower success rate on downshifts. Not sure what the difference is. The downshift situations are always more urgent, and the downshift button is with my left foot. I’m sure those are both contributors. Of course, I had some great downshifts when I did want them 
Yes, downshifts appear to be always urgent, except you start trying many meters before you need to be in low gear. I have the downshift button on the right side but it desn’t help.
I had several situations where I ended up dismounting because I had to ride slowly and did not hit the button soon enough.
But when shift, I have a 99% success rate of continuing to ride, on the 29" as well as on the 36"
Tonight I finally got around to puting my non-spiked pedals in the 125mm holes. The difference is dramatic. My heels line right up. Though I am still terrible at keeping my balance when shifting up.
I’d prefer the 150’s, but I guess for learning to shift, this will be ok. Once I can shift smooth, I’ll try going back to 150s.
I’m pretty much just rubbing my heel on the button as it comes around. Not really pushing the button… more like rubbing it. Is that ok?
My feet aren’t going to grow any. So that means I either:
A. Need to slide my foot backward 25mm, shift, and slide forward.
or
B. Need to shift with my ankle when the crank is in that position.
Right?
I think it’s common to start by shifting by smearing the inside of your foot against the button; nothing wrong with that. With more practice it starts to become easier to catch it with the inside edge of the shoe tread, at least as the first try (followed quickly by trying with the inside of your foot if you happen to miss it). With more riding I doubt you’ll eventually feel the need to slide your foot backward to shift, with 150’s.
Kris
Shifting using the inside edge of the shoe tread is one way to shift, but it’s just that. It’s what works best for you yeah.
IMO the shoe tread technique is nowhere near as smooth or reliable as ankle shifting in shoes like the Karvers, where there is no smearing but a short definitive flick/roll towards the button. Compared to using the inside edge of the tread, the larger padded area over the ankle pretty much means you’re gonna nail it - clean shifts, with a larger margin for error.
I could try the 125 position on my cranks, but I don’t think I could handle riding 125s in high gear for muni, or even 125 low gear for rocky climbing. Think I’ll just tough it out at 150.
Has anyone else experienced accidental downshifts? Mine seem to occur at the most inopportune times - going really fast or down something really steep. I guess my feet are just flailing a bit in those situations.