Even once doing a mile or 2 on the schumpf I’m not as comfy thereon as i’m on my short cranked 36". This being same, I LOVE it. it’s a serious toy and that i very fancy riding it… the sensation you get once you get within the groove with it’s wonderful. thanks Florian.
For anyone else who tries this approach: note that the protruding nubs are not centered on the bearing. They are slightly closer to the side of the knurled bearing that is laser etched with “UP”. As such - the ground location would need to be positioned to fit.
As there is space between the halfes of my bearing holders, a second groove would move when tightening the bearing holder. It would nearly be impossible to tighten it and keep it centered to the block at the same time. Making the groove wider would solve this issue, but would also make the second block idle as it would not block anything.
So I only use one of the blocks in my setup, which is the one on the upper side (frame side). I made only a groove in the frame, and not in the cap. One shall be enough to make slipping impossible as it is form fit.
Potentially. As in - if it’s rough terrain and you’re not sure if you’re going to land the heel shift, you can heel shift and drag your ankle over the ankle shift in the same motion. Personally I did do that for a while but these days it seems I just try for the heel shift.
Does anyone have a link to an installation guide? (Couldn’t find one on schlumpf or KH website.) Do those new features make it as easy to install as a spirit hub, or do you still have to be really anal about torque of bolts for bearing cups, and for axles?
Attached is the additional insert that Florian wrote for the existing manual. He hasn’t had time yet to update the main manual. Assembly is quite similar to the previous hub. However, a few key changes make it a bit less delicate:
axle bolts have an 8 mm hex key, so you don’t have to worry about stripping the hex slot
ISIS spline now has a proper spacer and the axle length is sized to exactly match the Spirit or Moment hub. That means you can install a disc brake without the modification hassles on the previous hub.
Compatibility of Schlumpf hub with QX frames and d’Brake
QX frame, Schlumpf hub and d’Brake is the setup I built. But before someone wants to build a similar setup here’s a little warning: QX frames and d’Brakes are not compatible to Schlumpf hubs, they have to be modified!
As shown below, Schlumpf hubs need an inner bearing shoulder of maximum 3.1mm width and 2mm height (=(42-38)/2).
The original bearing holders of the QX frames have a shoulder that is 5.5mm wide and 4.5mm high (diameter: 33mm). That means you have to grind off 2.5mm off the inner side of each bearing holder as well as 2.5mm off the shoulder. If you don’t want to grind off so much from the side, you can also grind off a little less ad make a bevel where the shoulder is. Also the d’Brake does not fit. The shoulder is already 2mm high but about 1mm too wide.
If you want to use the small blocks that are provided with the 2016 model of the hub for torque support, you can’t use them as supposed to with this frame. The gab between the two halfes of the bearing holder is wider than theese blocks which means, you would lose them. My solution is to grind a groove right in the middle of the inner shoulder of the upper bearing cap to fit the block. I only used one of the two blocks.
The moment has arrived- I finally got my brand new (and my first ever) Schlumpf :D:D:D
But, I’m pretty scared I’d do something wrong and I’d like to have your help please with the following issues:
1- I have KH29 (2012 version if not mistaken) and I put the two “small protruding nubs” in its position on the hub.
Then I placed it on the fork and I’d like to make sure I got it right - pictures attached below (left and right sides). I can’t see both sides actually in contact with the frame, so I wanted to be sure it was done right.
BTW - it seems that the only thing holding the “nubs” is the pressure applied on them from both clamps sides; can’t they pop-out somehow during ride?
2- Regarding the sides (grey/ gold buttons), which is right and which is left - if it matters at all…
3- Regarding the oil - I found an old thread about it, saying it needs to be lubricated once a year. But how? Are there instructions on how to do it? I looked up on Schlumpf’s website but couldn’t find anything there.
Last question - is there anything else that needs to be done prior to installing the hub on the fork, mounting the cranks (removing the buttons first of course) and building the wheel?
Thanks a lot in advance for your answers; it’s most appreciated.
Installed perfectly right as I can see from the photos. If you really have a 2012 KH frame, then your lower bearing caps shall not have an inner lip. So the bearing cap will go over these blocks. The bearing holder shall clamp on the bearing and not on the blocks.
Most riders have the golden one on the right side. But it’s up to you with which foot you want to shift up or down. If you use a disc brake it may be better to have the rotor on the side with the gollden button (see point 3).
On the side where the knurled surface an the blocks are (shift down button) there is a slotted bolt. Unscrew it, press the syringe of grease into, reinstall it. Then shift - rotate - shift - rotate - …
If you have the brake rotor on this side, it may hide the grease bolt.
Hyperventilate delirious with joy and anticipation
Many thanks for your detailed answers @Eric aus Chemnitz
Just to be sure about the installation with the lower clamp, I’ve attached a picture of the lower clamp and appreciate if you could approve it’s good enough (without any modification needed) to just tight it in a normal way over the bearings as always been. I’m pretty nervous about these nubs…
The blocks do not go inside the lip and in fact the clamp becomes offside while tightening the screw.
But I don’t get it, this KH frame should have been supported for this schlumpf version. What am I doing wrong then?
Thanks a lot for the help again; I really need it.
I don’t believe you’re doing anything wrong. Seems like there is too much lip left. Take a file or a dremel and get rid of the beginning and the end of the lip where the blocks are supposed to sit. This isn’t a big deal and can be done within a few minutes.
Maybe Kris could chime in to clarify if this version of the bearing holder should have already been Schlumpf compatible.
Thanks a lot @Eric aus Chemnitz for the quick response.
I tried to assemble it again and noticed that I didn’t tighten the counter clamp (on the other side of the schlumpf) and it put the schlumpf in offside while tightening only one side (where the blocks are).
Now it seems better - although the clamps holding onto the blocks and not onto the bearing. So it still looks weird and may be Kris could really help out if possible - it will be most appreciated.
Except for that, I’ve tried putting the lower clamp of a KH24 2015 version that I have and it still didn’t let the block go into the lip - that’s strange.
Additionally, it puts the hub in offside in relation to the frame, so it won’t work like this anyway.
That’s - in deed - very strange. The blocks protrude as much that they build one surface with the diameter 42 knurled surface. Thus, there shall be no lip/shoulder on the inside of the lower bearing cap. Yours has about 0.5 to 1mm lip. There’s no other way than to grind it off to make it fit.