I think they should work, but if not it wouldn’t take much modifying to get them within spec.
One caution on the housings - they’re CrMo. With aluminum housings, the housing + powdercoat is soft enough that the knurled bearing housing can effectively “bite” into it and secure it against slippage. Even if they fit it is worth using caution for this reason. I’d be interested in anyone’s experiences using a CrMo frame with the KH/Schlumpf hub.
I have a Hunter 36 with Schlumpf (I believe it was one of the first frames designed around the ISIS version hub). It’s got cro-mo housings. I follow the torque spec and have had zero issues with slippage.
Oops, for some reason I assumed they were aluminum.
Dave: Are the insides of your bearing holders painted?
I have put a schlumpf in a Triton (titanium) frame, I am not sure if it was torqued quite to spec but it had slipping issues. I replaced the bearing cap on the knurled side with an aluminum one (MountainUni UCM) which solved the problem…
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Hi Eric!
I do not believe the insides are painted. It’s been a while since I’ve had them off. The caps were machined so that they still have a bit of space between the upper and lower caps with proper torque.
I noticed that at proper torque on the (aluminum) KH frame that the caps are really close if not touching.
I know the holders on the Hunter are cro-mo, but I remember it looking almost like they were slightly marked up from the knurling. I can’t recall entirely if this was cosmetic or was actually slight indentations.
From the material properties I remember of reading about Ti and singlespeeds, I seem to remember a different mix being used for horizontal dropouts due to slippage issues. I’m not sure how the Triton fits in there.
I do love the look of Ti.
Powdercoat makes a difference. I’ve had slipping issues where I accidentally had a loose bearing housing, the knurled bearing slipped and ground off the powdercoat (and probably made the bearing housing a bit larger). Also a bit of work to clean the powdercoat out of the bearings.
As a side note, this issue will be resolved on the next model release where we’ve got a better method to secure the knurled bearing side while still giving broad compatibility with a standard frame (e.g. no extra bolts or attachment locations required). I can’t provide details or schedule yet but will keep you posted.
Thank you all for the reply.
Wow, Kris Holm himself answering one of my questions 
Tried to see how it looks if I put a kh bearing cap on my nimbus 29 road frame, and it seams that what I was thinking about is not possible cause the two pairs of holes don’t fit.
The space between kh frame holes and nimbus frame holes are not the same.
For now my schlumpf hub is on a kh 26er frame and since I just bought it, I only gave it a 20 min try on my parking.
First time ever I ride a geared unicycle, so I was unable to shift with the 137 spirit cranks, and the very first attempts of riding on second gear were epic :D, just like I learned unicycle once again, you know.
After 5 or 6 attempts and few upd, I was able to ride several times the length of my parking and discovered the potential of this very different unicycling dimension.
Anyway, in the first place my project was to have a geared 29er and I guess this is what I will finish to have, but I realize that I’ll have to change the nimbus frame for a kh29er frame.
It’s funny, if you search nimbus and schlumpf you get a few threads with the same people saying the same thing over and over.
Not many people have put a Schlumpf in a Nimbus frame but if the inner lip can be reduced to 3mm wide and less than 2mm deep you should be able to use the hub in your frame.
It looks like Roger Davies has had a Schlumpf in an Oracle frame, but it may have been a prototype so that’s not much to go by. Jacob Flansberry has also used modified aluminum Nimbus bearing holders to make Schlumpf compatible frames.
I don’t know which generation you KH frame is on the Schlumpf but I noticed that the newest versions (with disc tab ) have an asymmetric / triangular shape where other frame (including my old KH 2005 frame ) has the usual rounded and centered bolts.
If this is the case, I may have some symmetrical KH bearing caps in my parts box.
I think I will read the whole thread to increase my general knowledge about geared hubs, but according to what you wrote it seams that the only thing I need to put a schlumpf hub on my nimbus 29 road is a simple file.
I just wonder if the fact that the bearing holder of non-kh frames don’t entirely surround the bearing may result in slippage issue.
So here’s a question.
Why did they go away from the bolt on torque arm in the first place?
The idea was to allow people to use any frame, whether it had a hole for a torque arm or not. It seems like a tab between the bearing clamps would have been a better design, though.
If that’s the case then they didn’t succeed.
The ISIS Schlumpf hub was actually designed to work with 2008 and later KH frames (and vice versa).
That isn’t to say that other frames can’t be made to work. I would much rather remove a bit of excess material and clean up some welds with a file than start drilling into frame legs to get a geared hub to work.
The knurled bearing isn’t perfect but it was a big step forward from the torque arm. The next logical step would be a solid mechanical stop which only requires modification to the lower bearing cap on older frames.
This would not only be the next logical step, this is the modification for the 2015/16er model.
KH bearing housings have been updated for this modification long time ago …
Yes, with the 2012er models
I can confirm the Nimbus Crmo clamps need modification. My friend used to ride his Schlumpf in his nimbus Muni frame. We just had to reduce the size of the inner lip. But it worked!
The Nimbus Aluminum all need modification. But they fit. There’s always a way to make it fit!
I also ran my Schlumpf for a while in a frame with pressed bearing holders (I do not recommend!!!). It wears out the bearings way faster. Obviously I ended up making a frame to fit my wheelsize. That was when I first got my 650b, I was still not Tig welding at school!
Is this because you had to tighten it down too much, so it squished them in? I wonder if that will still be a problem on the 2015/6 one we are all waiting for. I hope not, my qu-ax needs an upgrade 
I’m pretty sure it will still be a problem. Schlumpf hubs are not designed to be run in staped sheet metal bearing housings, neither the old one, nor the new one.
But if your investing a four-digit amount in an new Schlumpf hub, take the 100 extra bucks and give it a new frame …