Well, that’s what I was hoping for. The thing is there is no Spirit crank that would allow for drilling a hole between 150 and 137mm unfortunately. 150 would be OK for most things, but really what I’m looking for the most is something halfway in between 165 and 150 for steep guni and around 140 for normal conditions both on the G26 and G36. The length of less than 137 wouldn’t be that interesting for geared riding IMHO. So maybe a dual 160/142 crank would be perfect.
I won’t completely say never, but currently, I unfortunately can’t see that length combination happening. Already there are so many models, and ultimately the divisions get too fine. The current lengths are pretty carefully picked to span the range for most riders. Sorry about that =(
Kris
So Kris, do you run 150/127 on your geared 26er or 165/137? Any thoughts about it? I used to have the dual 150/125 Moments on my 26er but I didn’t like the 125mm setting much and 150 seemed a little too much for most conditions.
For me 140 (maybe a little more) seems like a great all-round length but for steep uphill something longer around 160 would be useful.
I use 150 mm on my G26, currently. If I lived somewhere with smoother trails I might well switch to 137. In first gear, I’d never personally want longer than 150.
Kris
Thanks, I’ll think about it some more. Maybe 165/137 will be okay but it seems to be too long and too short while 150 would be longer than necessary for the DH and the flat high gear riding. Got to get some sleep now. 
Here are pictures of 137mm Spirit cranks on my geared 36er. The right crank looks good (plenty of clearance just like the 150mm Moment crank it replaced) but the left Spirit crank is much closer (not rubbing, but less than a credit card’s width of clearance). I don’t see this posing a problem unless it creeps in down the road.
First time using my torque wrenches I’ve set the crank (using an Extra Long Bolt to “set” it) at 40Nm and the bearing housings at 5 Nm.
I used my Wiha factory preset torque screwdriver to reinstall the buttons and they do have a little bit of play underneath. By mistake, I totally “removed” instead of just “loosening” the tiny bolt (I think Florian calls it the M1 bolt) from inside of the first button that I removed but I quickly but it back in. Now I get the concept of “loosen” the bolt just enough so you can unscrew the button. Putting the buttons back on I had to deepen the insertion of the M1 bolt to get the button “pushed in” flush with the crank. I would assume this (the M1 bolt) is how one would go about creating more play underneath a “pushed in” button.
Took it out for a test ride today and I’m happy to report that (moving from 150mm Moment to 137mm Spirit) the heal of my size 10 FiveTen shoes can finally reach the shifting button without needing to ride on my toes though an accidental shift is now a distinct possibility. The Spirit has a nice angle just above the button whereas the Moment was square. Shifting is a breeze! Now, all I have to do is master high gear with shorter cranks. Thanks Kris! Good stuff!
Hey David, I am probably going to upgrade my 36 guni too. I too have been riding 150s and thinking about switching to 137s. Giving it a try with some 137 Moments I have before buying new Spirit cranks (and a disc brake). Yes, much easier to shift (but a little worried about accidental shifts).
I am also thinking of getting the Slim saddle (or maybe a Street saddle). How do you like the Slim?
There is of course a lot of differing opinions on crank length, but as I have gradually increased in wheel size and tire width, I find a longer crank helps generate the extra leverage to propel the unicycle. This all for off road, muni:
For a 26er, guni or fixed, I found 137’s were fine for XC, but 150’s were better if there was a lot of steep climbs, 165’s would be too long for anytng but the steepest muni/DH, though I rode with a set up like that when I was learning.
For a 29er I have run as short as 137’s for XC, but 150’s were better for all around, though for the kind of riding I do (rocky, rooty, teep ups and downs) I have since gone to 165/137.
For my 36er muni I am currently running 175’s trials cranks which work amazingly well, but I started with 165 Moments, then transitioned to 170 QuAx Chromoly Street Cranks, before going to the Try All trials cranks. I just found some old stock Truvativ Luftalarm 180mm ISIS Jump Bike Cranks 
I find that long cranks on a big wheel spin as well as shorter cranks onn a smaller wheel, at that’s the sensation, so for me the 36er with 175’s spins very similar to a 29er with 150’s.
I prefer 110/125’s for 29er MUni, and 125/150 for G26er-ing. For extreme technical I still ride my 24 with 150’s for the added control doing 6+ foot drops and navigating through rock gardens.
Hiker: That’s badass dude! 
I’ve heard good things about the Street. That is what Kris recommends for distance touring. Not too much to the Slim (very thin, much less padding) in comparison to the Freeride saddles on my MUni’s. Then again, padding is the enemy after so many miles. I might steer you into the direction of the Street so you get the new (for June of 2012) leather seat cover though the mesh cover on my Slim does a much better job of utilizing the relief channel. And that, is what is really important after long periods in the saddle.
I would need a thumb shifter mounted on the handlebar with 180’s.
I ride 150s for almost everything - 24 DH, 24 guni, 36 guni, 29er. Anything longer than 150 would be too hard to shift gears with. I tried 125 on my 24 guni. It was doable, but too easy to shift and too hard on the rough stuff. I ride my 36 guni primarily on pavement with some excursions on easy off-road. I am pretty happy with 150s, but want to give 137s a try for easier shifting (hopefully not TOO easy), and faster speed (maybe a good idea or maybe not).
would a more rounded area around the shiftier button make it easier to shift?
Now I understand why your 26er gets more trail time, those cranks are way to short for 29er muni! Minimum for managing that big wheel is 137’s and even then there are lots of unclimbable hills, 150’s create a nice balance without being wonky, but for real power you need a long crank which is why I run a 137/165.
Terry, are you still riding a 36er off road?
No, you don’t want it too easy or too hard, works fine as it is, but a remote shifter mounted on the grab handle would rock!
I now have a challenge!
Speaking of remote shifting, has anyone considered how that might work?
What if there was a shifting lever on the hub body, with a corresponding shifting fork mounted on the frame leg, remotely operated from a shifter on the handle.
You depress the shifter on the handle, which moves the shifting fork down, then as the hub rotates the shifting fork strikes the shifting lever, then the hub shifts.
To shift the hub back, you do the same.
It would so much easier and simple than shifting with your foot, and far more predictable, with fewer accidental shifts.
I’m kinda suprised this hasn’t already evolved as it would solve a huge number of issues, of course it would also require a complete redesign of the hub…at which time I might get my 1:1.3 gear ratio
My G26er gets more trail time because it’s waaaaaaay more fun and versatile than my 29er! But before I got into the G-game, I rode the HELL out of my 29er and in fact made many videos where i was riding technical trails, doing drops, pretty much what i did on my 24. But The 110 hole was hardly used on my 29er, unless the terrain was smooth, flat or downhill. The 125’s were used the most in the months prior to getting my GUni.
Yes, I still sometimes ride my 36er off road, but still prefer my G26er, as it pulls double-duty as a standard 26er, and then transforms to a virtual 40" wheel, eclipsing the 36er in speed and sheer exhilaration! Plus, the G26er handles tech, drops and climbing (in 1:1) far better than a huge 36’’ wheel. Just a totally different experience, but I enjoy both. 
Edit: I always envisioned a wireless shifting mechanism, involving servos in the hub, and a button under the lift handle to shift by means of remote control.
So I have 29er Schlumpf wheel build on order from Bronson Silva:D. It will not be ready for awhile, but I have a few questions and I may aswell ask them now to be prepared for when my wheel arrives.
-
There seems to be varying opinions on optimal crank bolt torque; 40-45NM (30-33 ft lbs) seems to be the most reccomended torque; is there any reason I should do any different? I will be running a disk brake.
-
I feel dumb asking this one because I have not seen it asked elsewhere, but I would rather be thought dumb than break a $1,500 dollar hub. When torquing the bearing caps, how exactly is it done? Specifically, there are two bolts per bearing cap, if one is tightened first, it will “bottom out” against the frame and there will be a larger gap between the frame and bearing cap on the other bolt’s side. Should both bolts be moderately screwed in, then torque each to 5-6 NM? Sorry if this is stupidly simple and I am just overlooking something…:o
I had to file my caps a little to give me a little gap … invest in a couple of torque wrenches, its cheaper and easier than getting the hub fixed when you break it!!
I would stay closer to 28-30 ft lbs. Anything over 30 and you’ll round out the hex slot in the center of those bolts. I doubt it would damage the frame, but those bolts are expensive (and difficult to remove once stripped).
Thanks for the quick replys!
Alan- I am most definitely planning on getting torque wrenches, my question is more about how to properly torque on the bearing caps because there are two bolts for it. I am assuming that both bolts should be partially screwed in, then bring them up to 5-6 NM one at a time… Is this correct?
Adelman- Cool beans! just wanted to check!
Thanks again, guys!