I love my new SuperGuni but I am having some very frustrating problems…
Ride #1) Stripped a set of cranks on the first ride. It is easy to do as the play in the hub seemed to mimic a loose crank. After waiting another painful week for a new set of cranks…
Ride #2) I lost the left side gear button. AHHHHHGG! I had just succeeded in shifting and down shifting 4 times in a row when I lost it on the bike path somewhere. I look for HOURS and I even used a powerful construction magnet to look in the bushes…but to no avail. If anyone has an extra schlumpf button in the USA they could express my way I’d gladly compensate. I’m dying to ride this thing…it is so much fun!
You should email kris about the button thing. As for the cranks you’ll just have to wait.
To avoid these problems:
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Loose cranks: I had this problem too. The problem is solved by using a torque wrench to properly torque it down to 30 ft-pounds. (I think it was 30 that I used)
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Make sure you tighten the button really tight with the little allen wrench. I have had the button come loose only once, and I have probably 1000 miles on my schlumpf (which is out for repair, right now).
-corbin
I don’t think kris would be able to help as this is the superuni one, the none splined version as such i think that the button and most of the hub would be fairly different from kris’s splined version.
But bad luck man, still on the brightside you still have a freaking geared uni and how cool is that!
cheers
bry
Good point; he didn’t mention what type of hub he is using. I guess we all assumed the muni hub. The buttons are different on each.
Another thing to watch: keep an eye on the buttons, and how hard it is to shift. if the button looks more “inside” and the thing is hard to shift, then the crank is moving out, and should be tightened.
corbin
Thanks for the reply. It is the KH/Schlumpf hub button I am missing. I must have not tightened it enough…live and learn.
Make sure to check your cranks every 2 miles when you first put them on. I had to tighten mine A LOT before they finally were in place. A torque wrench helps, but I would still make sure to check them frequently until you know they are staying in place. I haven’t had any problems the last 250 miles or so. Don’t use the tool that Florian provided with the hub. The allen key has some play in the bolt and you can start to round out the bolt. You need a proper tool that fits and has decent torque to get the cranks tight enough.
I’ve learned that a torque wrench is not optional for this setup. You have to get one. The hex wrench Florian used to include is simply not up to the task - it will bend before it gets tight enough.
Also, Florian is working on a new button that will be out soon (sounds like not until after unicon though) which will allow easier tightening - as with the old button.
—Nathan
I think it can be optional if you have a proper socket wrench and hex adapter. At the hardware store I went to, the torque wrench was 50-80 dollars and the hex adapter was like 5-10 dollars (which you would need to buy anyway for use with the torque wrench).
Needless to say though, it is a lot easier and safer to use the torque wrench. Most bike shops will torque it to whatever foot/pounds you want for free.
What was the recommended torque for the KH/Schlumpf hub?
If it’s not broke, don’t fix it.
This all sounds too scary.
I haven’t touch anything in that department.
It’s the one uni I try not to abuse. I have the rubber pedal guards on to help soften the UPDs.
But I see a torque wrench and hex adapter in my future
note:
My down shifting (sometimes) is hard to push in. Not because it’s too far in as Corbin was saying. It’s just takes more pressure. 
That was my thought too, but I figure since I am going to put it into a new wheel anyway I might as well send it to Florian for the recall and get the new bearings and planet carrier.
I love my kh/schlumpf hub, it really has made my unicycling more exciting. I can’t wait to put it into a 36er.
Kris Holm is replied to my email today and said he’d put one in the mail right away. He’s the man! I have been ascending and descending Lookout Mountain in Golden on my Guni. I hump it up 2,000 ft to the top and shift up to second gear, (the one button I do have) and turn it around for the descent. I have a friggin’ plastered on grin that won’t come off when I am screaming down in second gear. I don’t think I am anywhere near Corbin and Co. in on the speed front but I sure do feel like I am going twice as fast as I did before. It is a bit scary how much faith I am putting in my equipment at that speed…far, far faster than I can outrun. But I am loving this 36er GUNI thing. It makes the drudgery flats and descents exciting and challenging.
I find that with my 29guni I am able to go faster on the downhills and feel safer. Spinning insanely fast on an ungeared 36 with short cranks downhill scares me more than going the same speed or a few miles per hour faster on the geared 29. The slower cadence definitely feels safer, but yeah, we are putting a lot of faith in our equipment when riding downhill fast on a guni.
Are you using a brake with your geared 36?
Glad Kris sorted you out with the new button. I will be putting my geared hub into a 36" wheel once I send in my hub for the upgrades.
I sent Florian an email a few days ago asking how to send the hub to him for the recall, so once I hear back from him I will ship it over and hopefully get it back in a month or so which should be around the time the KH 36" frame will be available.
Is this an official recall? I guess I missed that. I bought the last remaining KH hub sold by UDC, does that mean my hub is defective as well? Seems fine so far…
Mine has been fine so far as well. If you bought it from UDC then it does not have the upgraded parts.
That is the thread where Kris posted the recall.
Your planet carrier is going to be fine as long as you don’t put extreme force when back pedalling (ie try to stop in one pedal rotation), but there have been some problems with the bearings it seems.
Yes, there is an official recall of the first run of the KH Schlumpf hubs. I would check with UDC to find out if your hub is affected. The hubs that originally had the problem were on geared 36ers too.