Replacement for Tektro Disc Brake for 29" muni- what's the best option?

My Oracle 29 Tektro Auriga disc brake has been leaky for some time and brake power compromised by oil having gotten on the rotor. I’d like to replace it and am not convinced my best option is on UDC (and even there, I was able to find the Magura MT2 Next for much less $$$ elsewhere). I see some are sold as front vs. rear. I assume front for shorter cable length.

There may be another thread on this topic, but I repeatedly get a 404 error when using the search function on the forum.

What brake setup do you recommend? Are mechanical disc brakes available? Will any brake be compatible with mounting using the D-brake mount?

Try just using the ‘’ tag with Google. Works better.

Anyway this is the mothership disc brake review thread:

The most active posters there seemed to settle on the TRP Spyre/Spyke cable-operated hydraulics. Shimano Deore also got good marks in early replies.


TRP Spyre.


As does the pulldown search under the link to one’s PMs.

A leaky brake isn’t a reason to replace the whole brake, just as a leaky radiator isn’t a reason to trash a car. If it was working before, for you well, take it to a shop, have them replace the hose and bleed the lines. If you just want something different or better that’s another thing.

You can get cable discs but they aren’t nearly as smooth.

Yes, the search function up at the top has been broken for some time. : /

I have been bleeding the lines on this brake every few months for a couple of years. The problem with the leak is that the oil gets on the rotor which dampens the braking ability and is a pain. With this experience I see an advantage of mechanical brakes, although perhaps not the only reason to go mechanical over hydraulic.

Spyre/Spyke just for the pure ease of use and maintenance.

Once you have these set up, all you will have to do is re-tension the barrel nut on the lever/calliper. There is no messy hydraulic fluid and (inevitably) too long hose and complicated bleeding process.

Set up requires no additional tools (assuming you have something to cut brake cable to length) and takes less than 15 minutes.

Cable brakes with high quality compressionless housing, and slick cable are very smooth. There is a little more lever effort due to overcoming the return spring on the caliper, but that’s minimal with good levers.

If you have found it necessary to bleed your brakes every few months that is a red flag. Aside from replacing the caliper you may want to get a rebuild kit and replace all of the gaskets, seals, and o-rings. A decent hydro brake in good working order shouldn’t need bleeds that frequently.

I have had very good luck cleaning soaked rotors with automotive brake cleaner (nasty stuff). It removes the fluid, but also the bedded pad material. So if you do it you will need to bed in the rotors as you would with new ones.

but fixing the leak should fix that issue, unless there is something inherently wrong with the design. All the hydro brakes I have used have been fully sealed and not leaked at all. It sounds like something is wrong where the tube meets the brake, or brake lever.

I’d recomment the Shimano SLX. The servo wave technology makes it super smooth. I love that brake. Everybody I know who rides this one loves it too.

Ordered TRP Spyke brake and lever as detailed in another thread. Wish I had the time to (attempt to) fix it myself. But I don’t and I’m not interested in spending the $$ for my LBS to do it for me. Interestingly, my LBS mechanic said he could do what other posters suggested to fix the leak, but that he would torch the rotor to burn off any oil residue.

Burning the rotor is fairly common practice, but it requires removing the rotor from the hub. Brake cleaner has worked for me without having to disassemble.