I think this are two different things. The one is, drilling six holes for the disc brake mount concentrical to the ISIS interface, which is - for modern manufacturing - no problem. The other thing is producing an ISIS interface into the crank which is much more complicated. But an ISIS interface with a too narrow cone schould not affect the concentricality of the disc mount to the axle.
I prefer the inboard disc.
I just have the one uni these days though - the fat tired Oregon. On a wheel build as wide as the Oregon I doubt the dishing makes any practical difference.
It sounds like somebody was using ISIS without a spacer, relying on the taper stopping the crank (which it isnât designed to do) and wearing the crank by pushing it too far onto the spindle.
Yes, a non dished wheel is stronger, that is of course correct.
As a unicycle shop we get to see returns and repairs⌠and we are not seeing any significant difference.
Some of this may be because we have not pushed the boundaries and the dishing is not as extreme as you see on many bikes. The exception is the 36" wheels where you have movement in the rims with narrower hubs, hence the wider bearing pitch on those wheels to allow for that putting them at the similar angles the smaller wheels.
Roger
Con?
When packing a unicycle for airplane travel should the rotor be taken off? If so, is it a hassle to take off an internal disc rotor?
Iâd say protect it by wrapping some cardboard / foam around it. To take it off, you would need a bearing puller.
I have inboard rotor (oracle). Easy to pack for travel, have never taken rotor off and have never wrapped it in anything.
- I have had unicycle damage during travel, but this was a result of unicycling, not of baggage handling ;). Bent the frame a little but rotor unharmed.
Hmmm, thatâs interesting. How was it packed? Iâve been thinking about how to deal with this. Almost every website I find about packing a bike says to take the rotor off. Recently I found Scott Wiltonâs description of how he packed his 36er with a disc brake. I think Iâd do something like this. I suppose if the rotor does get bent I just wonât use the brake.
I re-built my 36" wheel yesterday to use a inboard disk. The dished wheel gave me more trouble than I expected. I was able to get the wheel to under 1mm round and true, and the high-tension side perfectly even, but not the low tension side. I am not used to starting with good components and not being able to make it âperfectâ if I take my time.
I know an insignificant number of people would cut up a rim to be easily dismantled and re-built for airline travel, but if I were to do it again I would definitely go with a symmetric build like I had in Uzbekistan. Symmetric builds are far easier to do quickly with satisfactory results.
On the plus side I did not consider how the inboard disk/caliper tucks the brake line in better than the outboard system. I have never damaged a rotor beyond what could be fixed in the field but I had broken a lineâŚ
Like everything else itâs a tradeoff. I am relatively happy with my new build and think it will treat me well, but Iâm thinking next time I build up a 36er itâs going to have standard hub spacing and an outboard disk.
Dumb question: on a KH frame, meant for an outboard rotor when designed, can you install an inboard rotor?
And similarly, on a QuâAx frame with an inboard rotor (itâs a PostMount I think), can you install an outboard rotor?
Are they aligned in the same way, or would I have to use a fair amount of washers?
I did it on a KH26" and on a KH29" + Nimbus D-brake, no need of washers if my memory is fine. But donât do this on a 36", the wheel will not be strong enougth
You mean an outboard disc on a KH Spirit crank? Or do you mean the D-Brake?
My QUâAX 36" has an inboard disc, it came like that.
I should have precised with a Nimbus Oracle hub, so in-board
The disk has to be used to the right of the mount, so if you want to use inboard with a KH, you need a D-brake, same if you want to go outboard with a Qu-ax.
The distance is different for the D-brake and the KH mount. For example, if you put a KH Spirit setup with a D-brake, youâll need spacers. The D-brake as the right spacing to be used with an inboard disk setup.
I will clarify further: The hub is plenty strong, but the angle of the spokes is really shallow on a dished 36" wheel on a 100mm disk hub. Qu-Ax does this with their high end 36 and I havenât seen any horror stories here so it might be fine but it seems to cross some arbitrary line as to what people (myself included) think is âproperâ. :o
If you want to go inboard on a 36 a 125mm disk hub is recommended.
QX is using 48 spokes with this ISIS hub,36 on the QAXLE version nut I donât know about spoke diameter, in the past QU-AX was using much larger one (and heavier) than KH or Nimbus (2mm)
Iâm using 1mm washers on my KH36 + D-brake (original design) + disc on Spirit cranks; but I have a lot of rub, even after changing pad material so I just bought Milanâs frame with disc tab to solve it, waiting to receive it
The wheel (24") goes diagonally in a suitcase, and I have clothing against the rotor side. Could be that fortune favors the foolish, but Iâve probably gone on 10-15 flights like this by now.
The disk has to be used to the right of the mount, so if you want to use inboard with a KH, you need a D-brake, same if you want to go outboard with a Qu-ax.
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Iâm resurrecting this thread as I might build a wheel when my Schlumpf hub moves from my KH24" to the 29". Since Iâll need a hub for the 24", I was thinking âHey why donât I get a Nimbus hub with inboard discâ. But re-reading this 4 page thread, Iâm realizing I wonât be able to use the tabs on the KH frame with an inboard disc, correct? The only way would be to put the caliper upside-down, yes?
Iâll probably stick to the out-board disc then.
Yes
Donât do that. The caliper is not designed to withstand abuse in this direction.