Problems with Dished Wheels (Nimbus internal disc hubs)

Oops! Now how did that happen.

Just ignore the above post, it was destined for greatness in another thread :roll_eyes:

Dontcha sometimes wish you could delete things after the fact?

In our industry, testing is fairly limited because the economics just don’t support large or long-term testing programs. Mostly the track record of today’s testing methods is pretty positive, considering the limitations.

Recalls? Interesting that a guy from Detroit brings up that concept. :slight_smile: Unicycles don’t have recalls that I’m aware of. There have been some replacement programs though. I was one of the recipients of an early Nimbus Stealth handle, with a weak weld at the front. No recall, but when mine broke they sent me a new (improved) one right away.

Hey, are you an old-timer in unicycling? From Pontiac, perhaps? Now I’m trying to identify the unicycle in your avatar picture…

It’s not a complete spoke failure, is it? The wheel still seems to be centered around the hub… But that sure is a thoroughly trashed set of spokes! Maybe it has something to do with those I-beam girders he’s using for cranks. :slight_smile:

Hi John…

It seems to be folks are misunderstanding just what I was trying to say, sometimes makes me wonder why I bother…

I was not suggesting that a lot of testing had been done on the offset laced unicycle wheel, rather, that it need not be done, as it would be like re-inventing the wheel. Dished, Offset, etc wheels have been in use by Yamaha, HD, Kawasaki, Suzuki, Indian, Ducati, BMW, and the list goes on for as long as those manufacturers have had racing programs. Motocross, Trials, Enduro, and a number of years ago, road racing as well. And those companies do have R&D departments, that do extensive testing. The wheel platform has been tested plenty, Unicycle.com doesnt have any need to further test the wheel in question. It works.

On to Recalls. The Auto industry does have recalls. When they screw up. And they are expensive, and to be avoided if possible. Yes I am from Detroit. Their engineering screw ups are not my doing. I am not an engineer. I am a toolmaker in the aerospace industry. And I never said the unicycle industry had recalls. I said recalls are expensive, so they used a ALREADY TESTED, reliable wheel platform, to AVOID recalls. And they did.

The unicycle in question (my avitar) is a compilation of Schwinn parts that I salvaged from the dump and welded together in 1976, 10th grade metal shop. I have had it for the last 30 years, and Donated it to the Redford Unicycle club about 2 or 3 years ago. The upper sprocket was from one of those little kids tin pedal cars from the late 50’s or early 60’s. It had about a 1.5 : 1 ratio, and was pretty quick.

I was from Utica at the time, near pontiac 1/2 hour away ? Hope this helps.

Came across this thread while looking into disc brake setups. Hadn’t seen Tom’s picture of me…but I like it. No spokes were salvageable, nor was the hub or the cranks. The rim and pedals were fine and back in service within a week. It sucked to walk the last seven miles of porcupine with a heavy, unrollable muni though.

Wife got the action shots:

[QUOTE=tholub;1537870]
I was “nit-picking” your assertion that “they wouldn’t put something into production if it weren’t tested to be strong enough.” unicycle.com does not have a real testing program, so the fact that something is in production is not any kind of proof that it will work. And the history of unicycle development is littered with things that didn’t work. A large percentage of the unicycle disc brake installed base will be on 36" wheels.

I’d also concur that few of my customers lately have been installing external disc systems on square taper hubs. If you want to experience disc brake technology, it doesn’t have to be about as ISIS Hub/crank interface or an internal hub mounted disc. A $35 Nimbus square taper super wide is inexpensive for a 36 wheel build and then spend the money where it matters, on a good caliper and a lever withmulti-adjustable screws. Coker owners?

Why go through the work of modifying a square taper hub just to save a few bucks? If I were to spend my own person time on making a “normal” hub into a disc hub I would personally use a hub that was strong and wouldnt fail on me over the years. :thinking:

I havent had any issues with the dished hub Im riding with. Spokes get loose on the taller flange side a little bit easier but besides that I haven’t noticed any difference in strength honestly. Although take in mind Im the kind of person that trues his wheel after most every ride.