If I am not wrong, this handlebar is designed to be mounted on the seatpost or on the frame.
The only annoying stuff is the T part rubbing the inward part of the legs if I mount it on the seatpost or on the higher part of the frame, and if I mount it too low on the frame my knees can touch the front part of the handlebar.
The pics are not showing my last settings.
After the pics I tried different settings and finished my mounting it in the middle of the frame (where I’m pretty sure the seatpost is).
Thus I wasn’t touching the T too much (only sometimes with my right leg only, I don’t know why) nor the handle loop.
I could give the higher part of the seatpost a try (closest to the saddle) cause it has been a long time I since didn’t try this.
But I’m almost certain that the T will rub against my large legs.
There’s another thread somewhere around here about it.
You may want to try flipping the stem (so that it angles downward) and mounting that as low on the seatpost as possible, hopefully getting it close to where you have it now.
You could also try a shorter stem to move the whole mechanism closer to the seatpost. Do you know what size it uses? I was kind of curious myself about that. I really wish they threw in a stoker (tandem) stem (length adjustable) instead of the clamps to move the bar itself back and forth. That would have solved the issue right there. I’ve really been interested in this bar, but I think I’m going to use it as a rear rack instead of a handlebar, so I shouldn’t have problems with leg clearance.
When I had it on my previous muni, I tried about every possible configurations including flipping the T part.
I have different cylinders to fit it on the seatpost (it came with the handlebar).
I agree, an adjustable stem would have been great.
At least a longer one would be great, maybe I would manage to find some bike parts that fits.
this whole thing adds some weight to the muni, that’s a pity, but since I got used to the handlebars, I find it difficult to step back, not only it ads control , but without it I just don’t know where to put my hands anymore, and I don’t like holding the seat handle for a long time.
When I see unicyclists holding the seat handle with one hand, ore even worst with both I feel like they need to pee
This evening I found a way to mount the brake lever in the loop of the handle.
the extremity of the lever is close to the front end of the loop and I can pull the lever by my right fingers.
the lever is still protected by the loop when UPD.
Have to test it when I’ll mount the HS33.
Or I’ll go the classical way: under the saddle, with the kh spooner (and people will think I need to pee )
The only way I managed to stop myself rubbing on the T section of my Qu-Ax handle was to jack it as high up as it’d go (Literally touching the seat). That way, the seat itself would shield my legs from it.
Triton 26 x 5
Nimbus 125mm steel disk hub
Koxx light 140mm cranks
Wellgo MG1 titanium pedals
Sapim spokes, Robson rim 65mm green
Schwalbe Jimbo Jim 4.8"
Hope Tech3 E4 brake
Koxx Pit Fighter seatpost
Axel Carbon seatplate with long John handle
Surely a top specced unicycle. I’m not sure about the colour combination though.
And a question about the Robson rim: why would the spoke holes be offset from the centre line? This does not take full advantage (strenghwise) of the wide hub, although the wheel is probably still strong enough. Maybe you can use standard length spokes this way?
Very common on rims over 50mm wide. I believe it’s to make the rim more stable since it’s supported closer toward the edges.
Or it could be a holdover from the surly pugsley. It had offset wheels so it could use 135mm hubs and still have the chain clear the tire. All spokes were laced to one side of the rim.
the geometrie of weels is, that the spoke line should cross where the tire touchs ground.
that causes spoke offset at wide rims.
it gives more stiffness to the rim, if you imagine a very wide rim its obviously that you need the spokes at the sides…not in the middle…
I don’t know where that idea comes from, but it makes no sense. The sharper the angle the spokes make away from vertical, the larger the sideways force they exert to keep the wheel centered. I think the strongest wheelbuild would lace the spokes to the opposite side of the rim. You can get rims drilled for this, but they aren’t common - I don’t know why.
In the fat bike world people have cross spoked wheels. From what I gather, regularly laced wheels are more then strong enough, and cross spiking is a royal pain in the ass to do. All your truing adjustments will now be reversed and lacing that would suck imo.
fat bike riders don´t drop high.
for munis you should have a trail wheel setup.
most stress is caused by high drops and if you have a nice landing side forces are not really big
Hey, I saw Jogi’s handle and I too wanted one. I made this one from some scrap I had. It works to stiffen the seat base by grabbing the 4 bolts in front and the 2 forward of the post. and it’s light. I removed the front bumper and the old brake handle mount to put this on and saved 10 grams. I will make a couple more if this proves to hold up.
