Nice DIY build indeed !
Seeing the picture, I wonder how does it feel riding? Does it feel like you need to reach down (aero-like) or is it just the picture giving this false impression ?
2 Likes
It feels like I have to reach slightly downwards when riding but I believe physics/balance makes it slightly less aggressive than it looks like in the first picture I posted.
I think it rides similar to the angle pictured here but unfortunately I don’t have a picture in motion…
Also a “cockpit” view. If you look closely you can see the “clamping screws” on the 180 degree stem just in front of the nose of the saddle. I touch them slightly when riding and it’s the only minor issue I have with this DIY solution.
Btw if someone wants to tweak this setup with a different handlebar position I suggest getting a 28.6mm seat post and a regular 1 1/8"->25.4mm stem. It would obviously be possible also to use a stem with an adjustable angle for a flexible but a bit heavier setup.
The important part in this setup is the 180 degree bike stem connecting the seat post to any tube of 28.6mm (or smaller with a shim). The rest is just about creativity.
8 Likes
I had the same thoughts, and that’s part of what led me to the realization of my new 29" frame.
In my experience, handlebars that attach under the saddle are fine for muni.
For road riding, long & stiff handlebars are a real plus. This type of handlebar or specific frames are more suitable.
Not having the front bumper can be confusing. To handle easily the unicycle (mounts, stops, technical sections), it’s best to have the handles positioned close enough to you.
In any case, I think you need at least 2 positions to optimize comfort and handling.
7 Likes
Is the inner bore of the 180 stem 28.6mm throughout? Or only for the clamped section near the end?
Unfortunately a 28.6mm tube cannot be inserted further than the clamped section.
Just a few pictures of two other handlebar setups build using my previous ideas described a few posts above. They are slightly less aggressive than my first build and by moving the 180 degree bike stem downwards / away from the saddle I also experience less rubbing of the bar from my legs.
13 Likes
I love it!
Do you use a stem for 25.4mm handlebars, a 22.2/25.4 shimmer and a 22.2mm tube?
How do you feel your new setup compared to the old one with the M4O handlesaddle base?
I feel that the handlesaddle base, which is 7 cm wide in front of the saddle, can be a useful support with the thighs when mounting or idling. On the other hand, when riding, it’s a source of friction for the thighs.
I really like the ISM saddles. The KH fusion one saddle I have on my G36 is really uncomfortable by comparison. But its shape and handle are useful when mounting or idling.
I’m thinking of a 36" frame in the spirit of my 29" frame (with an ISM saddle, a stable extender, maybe with a small frame bag too… but that also increases lateral wind resistance…), but also with a support not too far forward of the saddle to make mounting easier.
1 Like
Exactly. You can also get stems for 22.2mm bars to avoid the shim but I believe they are all made for BMX use so they are short, bulky and heavy. I have one in my spares collection. Not optimal in my opinion.
Due to the two “clamping screws” on the 180 degree stem (one hidden under nose of saddle in picture) sticking out either left or right
I feel that the best comfort is achieved by using a long stem making it possible to get the bar as far away (within reason) from my tights as possible.
Stiffness feels similar. I don’t have any noticeable flex in the handlebar. It’s the legs of the frames that flex if I try to twist the bar.
Saddle angle/tilt is obviously easier to setup to my liking with a regular seat post and the plastic strips mounting of the ISM saddle on the M4O was also difficult to get right and without any kind of flex.
With the M4O/ISM setup I was able to freemount almost all the time. Its definitely harder with the new bar not being able to use my tights for stability so my success rate has decreased some - a bit annoying but I assume practice will make perfect (again). And ride quality is better by not rubbing the M4O bar with my tights as you also mentioned.
I do not idle but I can imagine that would be harder.
2 Likes
Apologies in advance with my question as this thread is rather long and i had never given any thought about handle bars until now.
Is there a combination of using MTB stems , Bar ends and/or aero bars to use ?
Im intrigued to try if thats what people are using, It would be on a 25.4mm seat post.
I’m looking for ideas on a small handle extension option for riding 4 to 6 km daily.
I found an old post I did over 10 years ago on here and here’s a few photos from that post I posted for my medium size handle extension for uni riding
2 Likes
You are right!
I have a similar setup on my G36. I was a little apprehensive, as I am every time I don’t ride my G36 for several months.
I hadn’t ridden it for a year. And after 2 rides with flat pedals, I went back to clipless pedals, wondering how I was going to mount the beast without a bumper.
I didn’t insist much on freemounts before going out riding. I used a wall to help me get on. After my session I did some exercises to practice freemount and freedismount.
In fact, I manage to grab the saddle with my middle finger in the saddle slot. It’s like holding a bumper. 
And I’d also managed to get on by holding the handlebars, but that’s more difficult.
I’ve still got a few adjustments to make, but I’ll share some pictures soon 
@PeterG Your handle looks nice.
Personally, with a short handlebar, I prefer to have the brake lever on the handlebar and not the bumper.
Otherwise, I no longer ride saddle with a bumper. Do you know M4O handlesaddle? For me, it’s the best short handlebars (M / L size), but not everyone likes it.
2 Likes
Hi I totally understand about mounting the brake lever on a larger (like M40 handlesaddle) or bigger.
This old medium size handle bar was solely designed for a 50 kilometre Mountain Bike race for when I was in high gear.
But I cut down the brake lever body and tucked up close underneath the saddle the lever body so that I could use it on technical Mountain biking downhills.
It worked absolutely brilliant and are having a brake on the handlebar would’ve been just too dangerous and unsuitable for the events I rode in, and the mountain biking are used to do on my geared unicycle.
The smaller handlebar I’m trying to design is for on my new KH, 19 inch trials unicycle that hopefully we will arrive in the next few days after a long wait in New Zealand customs.
Apparently it was missing a wheel? (Only one wheel?)
I now have a permanent disability of a severe traumatic Brain Injury, and this is gonna limit my ability to ride off-road anymore and for riding a larger wheel than the 19 inch.
The plan for the smaller handle is for an extra position for when riding 5 to 6 k’s on a 19 inch wheel, I know it’s painfully slow on the smaller tire. I did it when I went over on holiday in Australia and would go for 5 to 6 km ride each morning practising for the upcoming unicon in New Zealand in 2010.
Any ideas for slightly larger handle than the long standard handle that comes on impact saddle would be appreciated.
All I need to do is go and buy some suitable steel and start welding away.
Live Life to the max when you can, and then after you’ve got a disability still try to live it to the maximum safe without causing severe disabilities going forward.
3 Likes
I decided to try to get rid of the protruding “clamping screws” that I showed earlier…
…so I got yet another “folding bike stem” from aliexpress - and this time I got one in 28,6mm diameter 
It is supposed to clamp a 25,4mm handlebar… but used in reverse clamping a 25,4mm seat post in combination with an Ergotec High Charisma makes for an even better setup as there are no protruding “clamping screws” occasionally touching my tights/pants.
6 Likes
Hi, Hammer.
I did try the same type of saddle locks, one screw lock, but without success. This screw get loose all time. So
I went to doble screws seat postes. Do you have the same troubles?
No it seems to be fine - but I also like the double screw with “infinite” adjustments better. I believe this seat post was just a leftover I had from a bike that needed a longer seat post.
II thought I had posted my own handlebar before, but I can’t find an entry about it.
Here he is. This handlebar is very minimalist and 100g light. You can mount the brake handle under the saddle handle or in front of the saddle handle and you can leave the handle on the saddle. With a ball grip you can also brake from the front if you mount a T-piece on the brake lever, and otherwise from the side. Since it’s just one bar, you can brake with both hands and also switch hands.
2 Likes
Hammer,
Have you tried to raise the front of the saddle and adjust its front and back position? I’ve been riding with a similar angle and position as yours for several times. For short distances below 15km, it was fine. But last week, when I rode for 50km, I found that after about 25km, it was so painful that I had to rest every 5-10km. I think the pressure point is at the front edge of the sit bone. I may need to test more to find out the best solution.
2 Likes
Yes I did experiment with the angle of the saddle and I think it makes a difference. Too low at the front and I slide forward which makes it uncomfortable.
Apart from a fairly ergonomic saddle with a width that matches the sit bones I think the key to the best comfort for road riding is to have a handlebar that is positioned quite low and with some distance from the saddle. This forces the rider to have a significant amount of force on the wrist/hands and thereby reducing the pressure on the sit bones similar to a regular bike. The handlebar setups I am using feels quite similar to a regular hybrid city/sports bike in terms of pressure on the handlebar and saddle.
By looking at your picture I would advise you to try to lower the handlebar a bit.
2 Likes
Thanks! I’ll try it.
This looks like something