Nice work…
I like what you’ve done there Ebevensee, and congrats on that ride!
My bars aren’t that custom…just a standard T7 handlebar from Unicycle.com with some drops from REI added on. I really like the set-up so far though, and it’s been great for some recent MUni action too.
Wow, unihopper those are sweet handlebars 
What’s that part that looks like stem, recycled b*ke? 
Whole concept looks clean.
Thanks! It is the neck of a scooter welded to the part of a bike where you insert the seatpost.
Has anyone tried it for Muni?
I’ve never looked at a KH brake mount. Does the alignment work out for the # 117 setup?
What was the “t” handle made from that the bar ends attach to? Was is off something or fabed?
(Sorry I couldn’t get the pic to show up when quoted, so I had to reference #117)
THANKS! Andy
I made one similar to that that I used for MUni for about a year until the mount broke.
Here was mine when it was first made
I am going to make a replacement mount sooner or later but instead of starting with a brake mount I am going to weld a tube onto a plate that goes all the way back to the front seatpost bolts (like a KH reinforcement plate).
Strong, light, great for muni.
The sand used in making casting molds works pretty well it the ends of the tube can be closed off. The tubing we had was threaded on each end on the inside so sealing the ends with a bolt was a snap, plus it compacted the sand even more. Tamp the sand firmly into the tube, never thought of it til just now but guessing the tube could be heated a bit to aid in bending. hmm
I need a stoker stem, preferably 27.2mm for the seatpost, and the open end needs to be 22.2mm. Problem solvers had one in these dimensions, but they’ve been discontinued and I can’t find any available. If anyone has one of any brand with these dimensions, and aren’t using it, let me know. I would like to buy it. If necessary I can get away with the next size up from 27.2 and just shim it, but the open end should still be 22.2, which is where my kh t-handle will fit into. Thanks!
home made bars
“simplicity is the highest form of sophistication” Leonardo Devinci
These are my handlebars I’m doing for a project for my degree. they really are as simple as it gets.and you can hold a really nice tuck comfortably
Can’t see your pictures
Your pics did not show, can you try again? Would love to see them!
Mark
Ditto here. municycleman, perhaps you are deeplinking to a picture, or linking to something on your local harddrive? If you attach a picture through the “Manage attachments” button there should be no problem.
I suspect it is this:
He posted it on the Facebook Unicycle chat page, and the descriptive phrasing was nearly identical.
" ‘simplicity is the highest form of sophistication’ Leonardo Devinci "
Maybe he over thought this and just isn’t using any bars.
Not knowing how to weld, I tried zip-tieing my scooter’s handlebar on…and that didn’t work too well.
I swapped the grab handle bolts with 3" long ones and used nuts, washers, and 14gauge aluminium plate to sandwich the bar on.
The foam handle grips were dried and flaking everywhere, so I pulled an inner tube over them.
After half a mile…the bar was too loose, so I’ve retightened.
I don’t think this will last, but it’s what I’ve got, and I’m thankful for my parents for paying for my unicycle and the parts from the hardware store.
Hmmm… Wire-feed welders start at around $90 around here when they’re on sale. They won’t make the prettiest welds you’ve ever seen but it seems like learning to use one could pay off over a few projects like that.
I really admire the creativity shown in putting that together, but like you I doubt that it’ll stay tight for very long.
That scooter handle bar is probably aluminum, so it would work with a 90$ wire feeder!
I would drill 2 plates and put them intead of spacers, the spacers will eventually bend and get loose.
Good point! I don’t do scooters and couldn’t tell from the picture. Yes, only for steel at that price.
cool! i guess my christmas gift will be to get myself a wire-fed welder.
I went riding for 10miles yesterday, had to retighten it 3 times… 
3d printed two plastic blocks, changed the carriage bolts to 3.5" long ones.
It was difficult to get on because the bolts don’t exit the saddle in the same direction, so I finally decided to drill out the holes to be a little bigger.
The angle is arbitrary (bar goes 10 degrees down relative to the block)
(not sure if I will even get to use this since I ordered a Kh T-bar from udc yesterday)
