this article Wheel building: 36h Hub with 32h Rim - #6 by caseytronic
and this side: Calculator | Spoke Length Calculator | Unicycle.com
hope it helps a bit
this article Wheel building: 36h Hub with 32h Rim - #6 by caseytronic
and this side: Calculator | Spoke Length Calculator | Unicycle.com
hope it helps a bit
Because we, as amateurs, donāt build the wheels as precisely as professionals. So, we sometimes use spokes that are a bit too long for example.
That doesnāt mean the rim isnāt suitable for trials on one or two wheels. However, when it comes to robustness and fatigue over time, it is sometimes better to have a heavier component that will withstand misbuild or misuse.
so that is why the grinder/pliers take place in action ![]()
all spokes are nice placed inside
but if somebody likes two walls it is OK for me (you can get them in nice colors)
I only explained the point that 2 walls in reality do not bring something more against the single one
No one, except maybe
Not sure if that was a single or double wall rim, here
Anyway, for what I ride either is plenty strong enough ![]()
EDIT: That one was a double wall; or is it triple if thereās another one linking the inner wall with the outer one?
The rim profile can be seen at 4:22.
My current project is lacing up a wheel for a spare 32-hole hub. Nothing fancy or innovative, just curious how this offset rim made for two-wheeled mountain unicycles performs.
After meticulously dishing and truing, I noticed the valve stem on this extra-light TPU tube was too wide for the valve hole in the rim. One thing led to another and I ended up going tubeless for the first time instead of drilling into the brand-new rim.
The first try was fun, but didnāt quite last. It rode great on my home trail, then slowly lost air and wasnāt rideable the next day. I pulled everything apart, scrubbed and properly re-taped the rim and added fresh sealant (no longer the old, grainy stuff I had lying around). So now Iām hoping itās still holding air tomorrow for the next test ride. ![]()
Nothing very fancy but the time has finally come to unpack and they needed a place to hangout (my unis a very literal
) :
Apart from the hooks I already had, 100% of the hardware and raw material is salvaged.
Nox, I am waiting for my order to arrive to have all 4 fully assembled (that is what happens when procrastination and xmas vacation meet).
Sounds a stupid question but have you put the offset of the rim on the disc side of the hub.
Alot of people get this around the wrong way.
I arranged the hub and rim so that the rim is centred between the bearings, and the spoke holes of the rim sit approximately midway between the hub flanges. Because of that geometry, I was able to use equal-length spokes on both sides. With this setup, the spoke angle relative to the wheel axis is very similar on each side. I chose the offset deliberately. Itās offset away from the disc side, and in my opinion, this is the right way round for achieving equal spoke length and comparable tension on both sides.
Howād the new wheel work out? Iāve had mixed luck with aluminum bicycle rims. They can be a bit soft, flexy, and whippy⦠But not all of them. And while they are usually tubeless ready, that doesnāt mean they wonāt burp under the lateral loads of muniā¦
I went with 2 mm spokes, which definitely helps keep things stiff, and up to now I havenāt ridden anything much bigger than stair-sized drops. Within that range the wheel has been behaving well with no noticeable flex, great handling, and nothing suggesting the rim is being overworked.
Iāve been using Tubeless since 2014 on all my Munis and I will not look back. It takes a couple days to really seal, but once itās done, itās done! Iāve had a couple burps over the years and 2 slashed tires, but those were very light XC tires from when I used to care too much about weight. I live in a very rocky area, where rocks are mostly sharp and square, flats are no secret to me haha.
This project is for something called a ādirt surferā (2 wheeled off-road skateboard) but it could be applied to unicycles as well.
I want my rear foot to be strapped in, but my front foot needs to be able to bail in an emergency but Iād also like it to stay on the board when going over chunks. My solution is magnets, but I really like my work boots and I hear cleats arenāt good for walking, which dirt surfers do a lot of. So Iām trying to modify a regular pair of shoes to be magnetic. Iām going to bolt a magnet to the board/unicycle pedal and Iāve got these post binding bolts (the ones shown are not what I used but similar. Iāve drilled a hole in the shoe and inserted the nut from the inside and the screw on the outside, while walking I didnāt feel it but I have a sole insert just in case. The screw and nut are both made of aluminum so I will have to change the screw to steel, I also donāt hear the bolt hitting the ground when I walk. This was just a test but the final version will have the nut sealed in and water proofed
I have given my one way uni to someone who has never ridden a uni until now, I told them what was wrong with it and said I wanted to use them as an experiment ti which they agreed. The person would like to stay anonymous so as I am updated I will update this chat. Feel free to ask questions.