Post your broken Uni parts here..

I am surprised nobody broke a part in 3 years (the thread may have been forgotten :wink: ).

Got a surprise 2 weeks ago when I found my muni crippled in the basement:

This pic was taken after I remove all the loose spokes (where the flanges broke) leaving 2 spokes on one side and 12 on the other (it is a 36 spokes hub/rim).

To be fair @MAD4ONE documents clearly that this hub is not meant for extreme use, should be built with Sapim Strong spokes in 4 cross pattern.
I had the wheel built by a pro but the Siamese wheels workshop forgot the 4 cross (or found it overkill?).

It lasted a good 4 years as I am far from being a muni grandmaster :stuck_out_tongue:

I was having some creaking noises for a while and thought it was a spoke tension issue. But the workshop guy checked and everything was good so he told me it might be spokes rubbing at the crossings (never was keen on greasing the spokes at the crossings as he suggested if I really wanted to get rid of the noise).

I am in the slow process of pulling the last spokes and realizing I am missing a few tools (some I never bought like bearings puller and some I have lost like a spoke wrench). But numbers seems to look encouraging for rebuilding with a KH hub I have and these spokes (that’s some silver lining). To be continued in the “lastest build” thread hopefully :crazy_face:

Is this with a 4-cross pattern rather than a 3-cross?
The flanges are clearly going to be larger on the KH hub.

That is where I am puzzled. I measured one of the spokes I removed to be around 251mm and the nipple was 14mm.
The UDC calculator gives about the same for a 3-cross on a KH hub !

Maybe I misread the lacing and the Mad4One was 4-cross. At this point, my concern is more about how much will this repair cost me and reusing the spokes is a significant saving.

To be continued when I will try lacing the wheel…


This makes me think again about buying a torque screwdriver. Not that the correct torque for things like this is very often specified.


I like those single bolt clamps with the steel barrel so you can really tighten them down without worrying about stripping the aluminum threads. I had never considered actually breaking the clamp itself! I’ll learn from your mistake :upside_down_face: