It’s pretty old about 2 years, maybe even more, i think. I were trying to jump over a 75x25 cm concrete thing rolling, and the frame snapped half way over, so it was still rideable after. Then after a days of riding I did a SIF drop from my car and it snapped the whole way…
Thank you Dmitry! Well put, and certainly instills more confidence in your products when you provide that level of detail. And, being able to debunk a myth about Triton frames on a thread not even dedicated to discussing such a topic.
Signed,
Huge proponent & Distributor of Triton frames.
One of my fusion FF saddles had a loose nut, causing it to spin when screwing on the lift handle bolt. After removing the saddle cover I tried to pull the foam off in one piece, but it was so totally “fused” to the base that became impossible without the foam tearing and breaking to pieces. I was determined to re-attach the loose base nut so I bit the bullet and pulled the foam off, destroying it in the process.
I could have tried to just lift the front of the foam up, but there was also another nut about to come loose in the center, where the seat post is attached. I figured no biggie since I had an old foam, intact, from an older FF saddle. Turned out that I had forgotten that the older foam was super soft and spongy, and not the “dual density” used in the newer FF saddles. So I called UDC to see if I could buy a few of the newer back up foams, as I had in the past.
I figured they were available, since UDC still makes the FF air saddle mods, which means they would have to remove the existing foam from the saddles to do the mod. They also said that sometimes the foams come off easily, other times not. But they told me that they didn’t have any extras at all, which I found surprising. I didn’t want to have to buy a WHOLE NEW FF saddle, when all I needed was a new foam piece, but apparently, I had no choice, so I ordered a brand NEW FF saddle.
I had been told several times that the NEW FF saddles would not have the “spinning bolt” problem, as all the new saddles had that issue addressed and fixed, by “welding” them into place. Well, after receiving the new FF saddle I began the process of switching the seatpost and KH t handle from the saddle I had fixed, to the NEW FF saddle.
Well, guess what? As I was finishing installing my KH t-handle bracket and lift handle, and having successfully–and very gingerly–screwed in the first three bolts, and thinking I was home free, as I started screwing in the FOURTH and final bolt into the base nut, and it was turning…and turning…and TURNING! The NUT on the NEW FF saddle became loose and was SPINNING with the bolt!!!
I was in pretty much in shock that this could/would happen AFTER I was told that the issue had been fixed by “welding” the base nuts in place! Needless to say, I am very disappointed. and there was no way I was going to attempt another “fix” of my own and risk destroying the foam in the attempt. I’m sending it back and hopefully I will get a a saddle that won’t have this problem!
I don’t know, but maybe they unwittingly sent me a saddle that had not had the base nuts “welded”, or done properly. So frustrating! 
skrobo had his welded at an auto shop. They also welded a small patch on the front and back of the frame covering the neck and part of the crown, I think he said it cost him $40. He posted picks of it but the search feature isn’t working, so I can’t find it right now.
I will try at an autoshop 
And I think I’m gonna get it reinforced like Kevin Kartchners frame
That would be really strong, but would make foot on frame tricks harder like a round crown frame would.
Skrobo’s didn’t go past the width of the neck, so would have no effect on those type of tricks.
Instead of going streight down at an angle like Kevin’s or Colby’s, if it sloped down like the graph of Y=1/X^2, it would leave a place for your foot.
Broken twisted PCs a little over a year of use
For me foot on frame tricks doesn’t really matter. I suck at them and don’t think they’re funny to do anyways 
So I think I might survive with a triangle like Kevin’s
My nice V!Z rim decided it was abused enough during my Unicon trip, the sidewall broke yesterday, my first day home, after 45 minutes of riding. I didn’t check if it was cracked or anything, my tire just poped off when I freemounted my uni. 
I’ll keep it and reweld it when I’ll have the equipement and the skills to weld aluminum.
Bulkier and heavier… I am not sure that is correct. Nimbus make both narrower and ligher frames as a general rule compared with other makes.
Steel frames.
Nimbus II compared with Torker and Koxx One is both ligher, narrower and from our experience stronger. There is a Quax frame narrower, but only one and it is a lot heavier.
Aluminium frames.
KH20 = 685g, Nimbus Eclipse = 576g, Nimbus Equinox = 576g
KH26 = 685g, Nimbus Oracle = 602g
The Nimbus frames are the same width as the KH if not narrower. But… the Eclipse and Equinox are designed for stand up tricks and hence do catch your knees on many tricks.
Nimbus do make a heavy frame, the Nimbus street frame… which is super stiff and amazingly strong with no failures on the market as far as we know.
I will say that Nimbus do break (everything does!). Although currently doing well compared with other frames in similar conditions.
Roger
I never believed I would ever break a muni frame. It broke when I … mounted for a wheel hop. 
Going downhill doing very light muni. However very steep. 24" quax luxus.
Guess my riding has improved… :o
I did the exact same thing on my club freestyle, only I was doing trials.
Broke the flange in three places and busted three spokes
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/526537_321449404647418_1123372866_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/526374_321449164647442_1016235137_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/10004_321449724647386_494514501_n.jpg
Holly shit! how did that happen?
3Ft drop
Yeah, I wish it broke on something cooler. At least I got it on video.
Wow, well that’s definitely a manufacturing default or poor wheel maintenance!
My wheel was in pretty good shape before this just regular wear. So I’m thinking default, I’m waiting to hear if it’s covered by warranty.
While it sucks to break stuff and have down time waiting for replacements… looking at the last picture, the crank, bearing cup, other spokes and remaining flange all appear to be scratched, gouged and well worked. Were you grinding rails?
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/10004_321449724647386_494514501_n.jpg
If so, I think it would be a very generous manufacturer to cover this under warranty.
pax