Hmm, how is that rear light attached under the saddle? Seems like a great place to stick it!
I did an earlier post on this thread about making the rear light bracket. It is near the bottom of this page:
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Did you have to weld the tube it clamps to onto the mounting plate you made?
After breaking a few cheap taillight lenses that rode my 3d-printed seatpost mount to the battery-ejecting shock of ground impact, Iām currently wearing a large one on my backpack and have only a small coin cell one with integral silicone rubber strap on the seatpost, but I keep thinking about dissecting one for the circuit board (or devising my own) and creating a more natively unicycle mount for it.
Your rearlight description sounds like opportunity for some creative interpretations! I just followed the āanalogā option 
I welded the mounting tube to the base part. The most important consideration for me was ādesign interpretationā. The light had to look āvisually integratedā in an aesthetic sense. So I tried to make it look as if it was made to be there, not just bolted on.
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My backup 36er. Got the Stealth 2 rim free from a guy who saw me with a uni at my LBS, and said he had a 36er rim if I wanted it, so I said absolutely! Itās basically new and also came with a new nightrider tire and tube. Now I can switch wheelsets every few weeks to make them last longer. 
It doesnāt look like your brake is quite aligned. Do the whole of your brake pads make contact with the rotor? Might just be the picture.
You are right! I think itās a 160mm rotor. The adaptor is for a 180mm rotor.
Go you your local bikeshop and ask for a 160mm Front adapter (ISO to POST). Youāll get much more braking power when the pads will be aligned properly, the brake should also feel much better (it probably feels a bit spongy as it is right now).
I donāt know how in the world you could see that, but you are right. In the photo, the bracket attached to the caliper needed to be turned around. Good eye!
Very clean! Your welds?
Thanks, and yes. Iāve been meaning to do this for ages but just hadnāt got around to it.
Iāve noticed a problem I never had with the dBrake. When I hold the uni upright and spin the wheel the pads clear the rotor. When I tilt it over ~45 degrees by the frame the pads rub lightly on one side. When I tilt it over the other way they rub the other side.
I think itās frame flex Iām seeing. With the dBrake, the caliper always stayed exactly aligned to the rotor because it was attached at the bearing. Now the frame movement is moving the caliper just enough for it to touch.
Iāll probably not encounter it during normal riding, since if Iām leaning over to the side itās in order to keep my gravity vector (center of gravity?) down along the frame to my tyre contact patch. The frame should only flex significantly with abrupt corrective movements.
Anyway, if it rubs while riding I havenāt been able to notice it so far over the noise of the wind and traffic. Iāve only taken it for a few short test rides so far though.
I must admit Iāve never looked closely at a bicycle disc brake, but I have replaced pads on motorbike disc brakes and cars, and I think the principle is the same - judging by bike brake pads Iāve seen on display in shops.
A piston pushes the pad. The pad is not directly attached to the piston. In some cases, the pad slides in a shaped groove, and in other cases it slides along two metal rods. Either way, the pad is free floating and is pushed towards the disc by contact with the piston, and is not actively pulled back from the disc afterwards.
Assuming that the bike (uni) disc brake is essentially the same, all that is happening is that when you tilt the uni to one side, the ātopā pad is falling down the slope and catching the disc. Nothing to worry about. Iād be more worried if it didnāt as that would suggest it was sticking.
Took my new to me coker on my longest ride on a uni. 13 miles! Having some hot spot issues in the nether regions what can I do to work with that? Iām an avid road bicyclist so is it just getting used to it and toughening up a new spot on my body or are there secrets?
Best answer to getting discomfort after 13 miles is to ride 14 miles a day.
Hey Mack,
I bet handlebars would help that.
I also think a flatter seat helps.
But ya, put in a few more 10 mile rides before your next 13.
Do I have enough seat post do have a handlebar?
Donāt know about that.
With a seat post mount you would have to measure the height of the clamp and see if you have enough post to accommodate it. Shorter cranks will get you more seat post too. (if youāre thinking of going shorter)
Both of my handlebars have been mounted to the underside of the seat. (like MuniAddictās above)
Where can I get one of those brackets to make a handlebar like that?