Post Your 36er Here

I just got an email from Taroka - $196 for their 36" uni !! If only I lived in Taiwan. I will see how much shipping might be.

Taroka sells the unicycles with this low price to Taiwanese individuals and schools because Taroka’s boss wants to promote this sports locally.

Flat - already!

So I received my new Titan and between Monday and Tuesday rode it for a total of about 15 minutes. Last night, Thursday, I pulled it down from the cieling hook in the garage only to find that the tire was flat. Not low, but completely flat. I inflated the tire to about 50 psi on Monday, but it looks like it may have blown the tube :thinking: . Has anyone else had this happen?

Guess I will get the fun of wrestling that lil’ ol’ tire offa that tiny rim :D. Sure glad I have Pedro tire tools - they rock. Once I figure it out on Saturday I will send an update of what I think was the root cause. But for now I just wanted to know if anyone has had the same thing happen. Thanks!

No wrestling with the tire.

Ensure that you deflate the tire as much as possible (not a problem, I guess:p).

Then squeeze the 2 sidewalls as much together as possible, everywhere around the wheel, so the tire can move on the rim. Then use your tire tools and continue to squeeze the sidewalls so that the tire can go over the rim.

Shadow handle

I got around to putting the handle on my 36er. The Nimbus Shadow bar set comes with two T-bars to give you some options when setting it up.

I left the straight bar uncut and added some Origin8 drop-bar ends to give me multiple positions when riding long distances on the road. I’ve only taken short rides around the neighborhood but this seems to work very well and feels almost like the handlebar on my road bike.

For shorter and/or rougher rides where a long handlebar isn’t wanted I cut down the curved bar and narrowed the ends of the “T” to have a close handle that allows a brake to be mounted near the saddle.

The piece of the curved bar that was cut off can also be used to mount a brake if I ever want to ride with no handle at all.




Taroka says they WILL ship their 36" unis to the USA. They want to know how many we’d want before they can quote a price with shipping, but given that the retail is $196 for each one, yall might want to consider it. Maybe somebody wants to put together a group buy??

Well, here’s mine. I built it up from scratch about a month ago.

It sucks though, because my T-bar just broke, again! It’s all good though because Kris is going to replace it free of charge. Thanks Kris!

Anyway here it is, minus the handle.

More pics to come.

I might strip the frame. Raw aluminum is way math.


Tire-Nimbus Nightrider
Tube-29er (with the help of baby powder)
Rimstrip-Chrome duct tape (Yayuh!)
Rim-Nimbus Impulse Stealth
Spokes-14ga black
Nipples-Regular ol chrome brass
Hub-KH Moment 2010
Cranks-QU-AX 125mm ISIS (Crazy light)
Seatclamp-Addict single bolt
Light-3 bucks off Dealextreme
Seatpost-Nimbus 25.4mm cromo (I’ll get the 3D forged KH when it comes out)
Saddle-KH FF 2009
Handle-Broken T-bar

Hope you like it.

Those drop bar ends look interesting, I might have to try them out when I set up my geared 36er again.

Nice! I like the rim strip - I had to back my KH rim strip with tape after it dimpled excessively (although admittedly partly my fault due to leaving the uni in the truck on a hot summmer day). I think your pure tape idea could be catchy. A stipped frame would also look really good with the silver accents on the wheel.

I would totally do that

Nimbus Titan frame
Standard hub (Nimbus CrMO square taper)
KH Fusion Freeride saddle
Nimbus Alloy seat post
Nimbus double bolt clamp - Red (+ black extra)
Twisted PC Pedals - Glow In The Dark
After only one good long ride, I am hooked! Love the Big Wheel :smiley:

Updates: added a fender, swapped the KH “T” for a longer Nimbus Shadow “T” in the KH T-bar base, added another headlight (the Nimbus bar is enough wider to allow this), added reflectors to my pedals, and added a bunch of stickers, including reflective ones on the fender and on the spokes. The fender and reflectors support my efforts to commute more via uni. Got the reflective sharks from an eBay vendor called “Fun Reflectors”.

I’ve posted more comments on the handlebar setup in the KH T-bar thread. T-bar discussion thread



unishark: I’m pretty sure there has never been a unicycle with purple pedals and purple hand grips in Montana. Did you research this? Are you sure it is legal?

I would be “sheepish” about being too colorful in Montana : ) …but being “sheepish” might not be wise either, with the exception it could ramp up your cadence quite a bit.

Yeah, so seriously now, I will post up some pics of some mods I think you might find value in within the next couple days.

This is a really good Thread BTW

Q: “Purple?”

And yes, the longer handlebar is in response to your prodding about doing longer rides. Still not sure how far I’ll work up to, but I’m trying.
Actually, I’m looking at doing a local two-day tour, maybe do the 85 mile option via uni on day one then 110 miles on day 2 with my recumbent. Unfortunately, it’s the same weekend as Reach the Beach.

Some Ideas

I bought a pair of Davinci Designs 3 hole cranks. The pedal holes are at 130mm, 150mm, and 170mm. I was initially a little leary about how well the aluminum crank could take cycles of pedal changes. Dave Elliot had nothing but good to say about the Davinci Design cranks he had on his Coker so I called the owner and he was very well aware of the composition and properties of his product, and it put my mind at ease because they are $195.00…which is more than a candy bar.

When I was in India I saw a take down bike that had quick release pedals that worked like the couplers on air tools. The ones I saw were by Wellgo I believe, pretty sure. The benefit is that you don’t have to unscrew the pedals and possibly gall or otherwise damage the pedal threads in the aluminum crank. The insert threads into the crank and remains and the pedal inserts and locks with a snap like an air fitting.

My thoughts were to place an insert into the 130mm,150mm,and 170mm pedal holes in the crank and swap pedal positions really fast without risking damage to the threads. It would have the benefit of being faster to change the pedal position and also prolong the thread life.

Mks has a two similar systems to the Wellgo. I decided to go with the MKS Superior with the Grip King pedals. The Superior system has to be aligned to the corresponding marks before the pedal can release from the insert so it is more positive in retention.

The first thing I discovered is that the hole pattern of 130,150, and 170 is a little too narrow to accommodate all three inserts per side that the Grip King pedal will click into. The hole pattern could be opened up center to center slightly and then you could change hole positions quickly between multiple inserts. As it is now I can only put the inserts into 130mm or 170mm or the 150mm by itself. 130mm or 170mm is not too bad because I only change out of 130mm for a steep hill.

The other issue is Q Factor because the inserts space the pedal out a little bit from the crank. I haven’t had any problem with Q Factor yet even after back to back century rides during the STP. Adding space is a consideration still.

The inserts are a concern also during the pedal rotation because if you place your foot to close to the crank an insert will make contact along the lower edge of your shoe and possibly dislodge your foot. It was not any issue if you mount carefully and stay aware as you set your feet to ride.

Here are a few pics and I also fabricated some aluminum bases for the forearm pads on the aero bars to withstand a crash because the plastic ones are fragile.

You can get Grip King pedals with standard threads and just swap hole positions with a wrench and finesse. the Grip King pedals are really a good pedal for me and worth looking at.

You could also get a Kris Holm 36’r with dual moment cranks in the first place with a Free Ride Fusion seat instead of adding this and that to the Coker get similar effect.

I really grew to appreciate the 2010 Kris Holm Free Ride saddle for distance. I should have said that sooner.

Coker needs to offer a dual or multi hole crank


really nice stuff!

Some Other Stuff To Consider

The Handle bars w/forearm pads help take the uni rider down into a tuck that helps shed the resistance of the wind. The bars help change your body posture as you deal with strains and cramping on a long ride and the forearm pads are good to lean on as the miles accumulate.

The Grip King pedals are worth that second look if you like good grip but not quite the ultra aggressive spikes or being clipped in. Being clipped in is great but I lack the courage. I know the benefit is huge to being clipped into pedals, but fear restrains me going clipped in on a unicycle and I admit it.

unishark:The Grip King pedals are good for a longer foot also. Your shoe is fairly close to technically being classified as a “kayak”, so it might work a little better.
If you had to, I think you could have the pedals anodized “purple” as long as it does not violate any ordinances in place in Montana.

A pic to help

Handle bars…forgot to post a pic

Careful, I might show up with pointy-toed purple shoes next time I ride with you. :smiley: