I am going to move my Schlumpf hub into a 26" wheel that be able to use a Larry tire in this frame but will mostly stay in a smaller frame. I am excited about trying out a Larry and do enjoy my Schlumpf!
EDIT: both the 29 and 32" rims have 32 spoke holes making them unschlumpfable
I was thinking about building a lightweight 26" wheel that was wide enough for a 3.0 tire witha schlumpf hub. Have you found any lightweight wheels that are wide enough for Larry?
I think the 26" guni would be a great off-road/ tech XC machine.
My 29" wheel is still round and true. I have not had any issues with it. If I had an option for a 36h rim I would have gone for it. Compatibility with other equipment is more important to me than the very slight weight loss of 4 less spokes.
Where I think that 32h makes sense though is trials wheels, especially when using drillouts on double walled rims. The bridges on the inner walls of the rims are just too small and they brake. Using less spokes allows more room for those bridges resulting in a stronger rim.
Some people have used Larrys on 47mm rims and said it was OK. I am going to try a 50mm Umma II assuming Speedway gets back to me about that. I canāt remember weights but I thought that my 29" rim was about 200g lighter than the KH equivalent.
I found this old page and thought it was worth reviving , I have had my 26" freestyle for a couple of months i ordered it from UDC Aust and it arrived on time and in perfect cond I was surprised as I live on the other side of oz and delivery is userly haphazard the first thing I noticed was the excellent paint finish mine is black the only thing I was not raped in was the poker dote seat I have just replaced the cranks with 125s but have not taken it for a ride yet.I would recommend the freestyle for someone moving up from a cheap learner Uni but I am already looking at nimbus and kHs as I would like brakes . Rating 6/10. Ps the triton above is Uni porn
Originally I bought a 24 to play in defense during hockey tournaments. The original setup is the picture of the whole unicycle, Impact gravity 24 inch, nimbus 2 48spoke wheelset, kenda tyre and Nimbus saddle.
I have changed parts since then to lower the inertia of the wheel to be less than an a 20" this allows faster starting, stopping and turning even though it is a large wheel.
I have changed.
Quax Eleven Saddle - I prefer the firmer base and thinner profile. I find it more comfortable and for some reason I find I am able to turn quicker on a thinner saddle??
Rim - Alien Deviant 24" Rim, much lighter than the nimbus 2 rim.
Tyre - Maxxis DTH 24", much lighter than the kenda
Hub - KH Spirit, lighter than the nimbus 48 spoke hub but only used because the wheelset is 36H
-where you bought it from
Frame is from hippo unicycles, original wheelset is from Unicycle.com Australia.
New Saddle and Hub are from onlycycle.ru
Rim and Tyre from various online shops.
-how Much
My guess is the original setup cost about $300
The changed parts cost standard amount for spirit hub and quax eleven seat.
Rim about $94, tyre $35.
-Would you recommend it to Others
Definitely. It rides better than a 20" but takes up more space to block the goal. It does what is needed 100%.
Stock KH29 with an older muni handle. The new handles divide your fingers when you grab them and I didnāt like the feel of that.
It came with a Duro āCruxā 3.25" which has a 31" diameter. I tried it for several weeks and decided to throw on a Maxxis āMinionā DHR instead because it has a 30" diameter and that felt a little easier on my knees. This is also the tire I have on my 29" Nimbus āOracleā and I love it.
Iām guessing all the factors added up to a tougher ride for my body. Upping my diameter from a 29" to a 31", riding on snow, and a new ride with a different Q factor. At least this is what Iām telling myself.
Now with the Minion, old handlebars, and some riding hours there is no more pain in my knees. Iāll try the Crux next winter and see if I have the same results.
My setup: Saddle: UDC cf base, in the picture it still has the rare sinco cover and regular Impact Foam, I now have a KH street 2011? foam cover and handle, which surprisingly, I donāt find too thick, I can still grab it comfortably for all my tricks. Seatpost: KH. pretty good, lasts a long time. Note I installed it backwards, to get that nose down saddle stance that makes flips faster and protects private parts. Seatclamp: Impact single bolt. It clamps. Frame: Impact Gravity, first generation, with the paint stripped of in a rough look (too lazy to polish). I very occasionally wish for a square crown, but not hitting knees is good too. Hub: Impact, with custom paintjob. Very ok, I guess, small enough flanges to keep them away from hitting stuff while grinding, big enough to not have to remove my bearings to change a spoke. Rim: Try all, custom (read shitty) paintjob. Tire: Try all, (old one) slick. I like slicks, they roll so nice and smooth, wouldnāt want to change it out. Cranks: 125mm Moments, some speed holes drilled. My favourite flatland/street crank ever. Enough space for most rolls even witout rollo disk, never hitting my ankle. Pedals: ālittle girl pedalā threw them on because they were yellow the rim was yellow, and I had them lying around, with all intentions of getting different ones later, but I kinda like them now.
Didnāt have a pic, so here is a screenshot of me falling of it while trying a late 180flip.
What do you have sleeved over your seat post? Is it to increase strength, or just to prevent the post from falling down into the frame?
If you havenāt already I would recommend cutting off the crimped bottom bit of the seatpost, then ramming a length of dowel up there. It doesnāt have to go all the way, just past where you clamp. I eventually came up with this modification after replacing my seatpost a few times on my first cheep unicycle. My seatpost would crimp right at the clamp, or a bit above, then bend. The dowel fixed it.
Finspin:
Your picture didnāt load. I always like seeing pictures when people add lightness to their Moment cranks
Wheel (rim, hub, spokes): steel with chrome, square taper, from BicoPlus (the bicycle company where the founder of Qu-Ax worked before). Bought in the late 90ās, gone through a lot of abuse, trued only twice and still in perfect shape. Frame: Ajata Freestyle Longneck 400mm steel with chrome. Really nice freestyle frame, good stand for the foot on the crown Saddle: Qu-Ax Trail/Street. Nice firm saddle for freestyle. Good to grab with my small hands, no problems even after hours of training. Tire: Kenda Karrumba. max 7 bar (100 psi) nearly no rolling resistance at max pressure. Does not wear as fast as those standard Qu-Ax tires. Pretty hard rubber but still enough grip on gym floor. Pedals: Qu-Ax Cross. Wide platform, good grip from plastic pins Cranks: Steel square taper 75mm / 100mm depending on what Iām practicing
I bought the original unicycle in the late 90ās (around 98 I think). It had lollipop bearings. Later I changed pedals, seat, cranks (orginal: 125mm), frame (twice), tires, ā¦
The only orignal parts are the wheel itself and the seatpost.
These are my street riding 36-inch Unicycles that I explore SoCal with ride for exercise and leisure.
I purchased both of these from unicyclecom oneās a nimbus Oracle $995 the other a nimbus Knight Rider $650
I highly recommend either one of these UNIāS if youāre looking for distance rides or flat land.