So here’s the latest design ideas. I thought the hinge idea was a good one as then there’s no pieces to lose. I kept with the dual crown idea as most force would be a downward force, and the only upward forces exerted would be from lifting while jumping or pulling up while going down a steep section.
I put the hinge on the front as I think that’s where most of the force would be applied while jumping. There’s a latch of some sort on the back to keep the unicycle from folding while riding (although it might be fun to do some sort of seat out trick where the frame folds…).
I think this design is simple enough to be realistic and should hold up against most normal unicycling forces. I need to build a prototype of the hinge section first to see if it even makes sense. Then I might build myself a frame. Does anyone know how I could go about doing that? Could a machine shop machine the hinge and weld the frame together?
And here’s how it would look with a wheel. My apologies for the simplicity of the designs. I’m doing them in Open Office, which isn’t exactly the same as using a CAD program!
That does look like a neat concept. One thing to note is that when you fold it, the seat post will hit the tire so it’s not going to fold completely in half. So I don’t know how much space it will really save you??
I agree with Tuna on the limitations of space saved by your hinge location. The seat will hit the tire and the unicycle will, for the most part, still take up as much space. It will be less tall, but longer front-to-back.
The ceiling hook idea makes for very convenient storage. To further get the unicycles out of the way add a second hook for each. Hang the wheel, then use the second hook to bring the seat up to the ceiling. Ceiling hooks can be found at Home Depot for a buck apiece (if you like yellow or orange). Then it’s just a question of household aesthetics. If you wanted them out in the room, you probably already thought of it.
A secondary drawback of the hinge idea is that it’s going to make your frames heavier. The cruder the design, the more weight you’ll add. Upward forces on the frame would probably not pose as much problem as the twisting forces of normal riding. You’d want the two halves of the frame to lock together somehow so the connecting area isn’t just flat. Otherwise all the forces will pass through the hinge pin and locking mechanism.
I still advise you look into the Pichler unicycles.
John, FYI-Tuna was my old name and I haven’t used it for a long time. Call me tuna if you really want but it might be helpful to others to call me 6869 or Jamey or something like that?? Just an idea…
I took a picture of a 20" unicycle and analyzed different methods of folding/detaching it. By putting a hinge on the front, it made it slightly wider, but did shorten the height, which basically just redistributes the size. I found the method that would shrink it the most is to divide it at the crown and set the top section upside down next to the crank arm. Since there are no forks to widen it at this location, the seat doesn’t stick out much further than the pedals (at least on my MUni with some q-factor involved). The width stays about the same, but the height is greatly shortened.
John, I tried looking up Pichler unicycles, but all I found were sites in German. Do they use hex bolts to connect together? I’ve seen some setups like that, but I want something that takes less effort (like a quick release system or something).
I don’t mind adding a little more weight, since it would only be the crown that I’d be adding to. And although the hooks might work (and I seriously doubt our landlord or my wife would enjoy the hanging decorations), it has gone beyond simply storing them in my house. I want something I could stick in the trunk of my Cabriolet (not an easy challenge!) or inside a suitcase for trips where I can’t be without my unicycle.
I know you are looking for something more complicated and I already mentioned this but removing the seat post/seat will make the unicycle store in the same space as a crown that seperates. Because the wheel is round and the space you are storing the unicycles in is square the seat tube/crown fits in one of the corners. JC mentioned that the seat post is greasy but a quick wipe with a paper towel will take care of that and you realy don’t need to keep your seat post all that greasy anyway. There are several high quality quick releases available salsa flip lock is probably the best or just keep an allen key there in your closet. If you make a small mark on your seat post with the corner of a file where you like your seat height it makes it easy to put your seat back where you like it. I know you have already heard this but maybe try it and see how they store It may not help that much taking them apart anyway and it would save you money.
Think about how simple/effective this would be. Cuts the frame in half, uses existing technology.
Different size tubing as below…each fits inside the other and clamps around it with a seatpost clamp (need 2 different sizes), remove the one at the crown to reduce size, use the seatpost one to adjust seat hieght.
You’re making me look bad for thinking too hard about this!
Seriously, though, I checked on the idea of the uni fitting in the same space if you take off the seat and seatpost. I haven’t checked with a 24" or larger, but from my calculations, a 20" won’t fit in the same space if you take off the seatpost. My design comes drawing over the top of a real 20" trials unicycle, so the proportions should be correct. It definitely cuts down the size by quite a bit, and is not a bad idea if I ever want to travel with my Uni. But it ruins the coolness factor of coming up with a new design!
I’m wondering about Obie’s design. I think that in order to keep the neck from bending, you’d have to make the “crown clamp tubing” relatively long, which would make it taller. Plus, I’m wondering about the torque on that location (that’s essentially where the seat torque is transferred to the wheel section) if it might be too much for a quick-release.
I’m sorry if it sounds like I’m criticizing anyone’s designs. I have to do mental Research and Development because if I do end up building one of these, all I’ll be able to afford is a prototype!
I know you don’t want to hear this, but if your seat post clamp was only 1" above the fork and you had a really long seat post (or a seat post with an extension), then it would fit in the same space!
Yeah the smaller the wheel the longer the seat tube. And the bigger the wheel the shorter the seat tube so on a larger wheel it works out. But not on a 20". i also understand that it is fun to design and build something new and different. Have fun with it! Dan.
I guess our minds still think alike (CFPGM); I drew this during the weekend. This would take care of upward and downward pressure and any problems with torque; the problem I’m visualizing now is that there can’t be any space between the pieces, or the neck and seat will rattle and wobble as you ride.
Yeah that would be hard to make with tight enough tolerances so that it doesn’t rattle and how are you going to clamp it together. It also looks like overkill and will be heavy. I like the idea of a hinge that when hinged it comes apart, and then something like bolts that swing up and have big wing nut on them to clamp the two halves together.
Why don’t just go with the quick release bearing houses?
Would save quite a bit of space, you’ld have to detatch the seatpost though to get it really small.
I have those on my coker (36") and they work great. I got them from Jim_Rob. They work great on a coker but with a 20" I dont think it would help all that much from a storage stand point. It makes it so I can put my coker in the trunck of my car along with luggage other wise the coker takes up the whole space. It only takes a minute to take it apart or put it back together. They don’t work well with the magura brakes because you have to let the air out of your tire to get the wheel off so I built my coker with V-brakes.
I know it’s been mentioned before, and I think I have a workable idea, but does anyone know how strong and durable quick releases are? Would two of them withstand the force of holding the dual crown together, even when pulling up on the seat while jumping or going downhill? I’m starting my latest design, but if quick releases aren’t strong enough, it’s back to the drawing board (again).
edit: I forgot to mention; I’m talking about the skewer QR’s, the kind that hold the wheels on; not the ring kind on seatposts.
