Is the seat post diameter right? I have a Nimbus 28 with a 22.2 mm seatpost.
Spoke length will depend on how you lace the wheels - 2 cross, 3 cross etc.
Those little washers: inessential, in the sense that most wheels don’t have them, but I think they are an improvement.
You only need a 14mm socket to tighten cranks. You definitely need a crank extractor to remove or change cranks.
The cranks come as a matched pair. It would be worth paying a little bit extra for lighter alloy ones. (Yes, I know steel is an alloy too, but everyone knows what I mean.) Lighter cranks do improve the ride.
If you need to ask some of these questions, it may be that you should think along the lines of buying a standard uni then upgrading bit by bit as your tastes and knowledge develop. Why do you think 152 mm cranks? What style of riding do you plan? What is your local terrain like? How experienced are you. have you built a wheel before?
Buying the perfect unicycle and finding it isn’t quite right is a big disappointment. Upgrading is a nice feeling every time you fit that new component.
that Cromoly Hub item seems rather expensive - aren’t the UDC hubs like 30$? Might wanna check either that or a Suzue out, they’re generally considered to be the strongest.
i just last night had a similar uni built up by bedfoford for me only a few differences: black monty cranks 158mm, an all powder coated black wheel including the hub and spokes (see the theme?) and a exiwolf tire but the rest essentially is the same and it is outstanding to ride!
i would seriosly look into having Darren Bedford quote on the same setup you just listed. i am really really happy about this current rig and cant wait to take it to the Mexican Baja desert for some long hot rides.
Looks to me like you might just want to buy the Nimbus 29er for $229 then buy a few extra parts…152 cranks-$25, tire-$70. You would still have a spare seat to beat up. This approach will save you $75, and you will have a Big Apple, and a pair of shorter crank, to make a road-worthy option for on road–that leaves enough to buy a cotterless crank puller and a few other things you might want. My guess is that you won’t approach the limits of the rim on the Nimbus before you meet the limits of the cotterless crank set up.
Or, you could just spend $130 more and get a KH29XC. I just got one and it is awesome. I started with the KH29XC (a great trail rider) and am trying to back in some good components to make it a better paved surface traveler…like shorter cranks and a smooth tire. The only disappointment to me is that the Big Apple tire won’t quite fit on it.
Kris, if you are reading…add a half inch to the fork length next year.
You can find a spoke length calculator here. Unless you can build wheels yourself bear in mind the costs of having a local bike shop build your wheel (in NZ typically $50 to $80) in the total cost of yr 29er.
Spoke washers are not essential.
Yes the Kenda Klaw will be a good tyre for you, as its designed as an offroad tyre.
Mikefule answered this
Yes cranks are sold as a pair (left & right)
Mikefule - yes that is the right diameter seatpost for the Nimbus 29er frame. The older Nimbus 28" frames had 22.2mm seatposts.
