You can order right- and left- threaded cotterless cranks from any Schwinn
dealer. Other parts dealers (e.g. Island here in Minneapolis) list only
cottered cranks, but may have a better selection of lengths. The unicycling
FAQs also claim you can just remove the spider from a bicycle crank, but it
seems messy to me!
Does anyone out there have a good mail-order source for a wider selection of
Uni parts?
Attn uni-mechanics:
I want to replace the crappy pedals on my uni. However I discovered that I have
two left pedals. I understand why bicycles have left & right pedals - because
the right side pedal would work loose if it was threaded normally. I don’t see
why a unicycle should be any different. In fact, it appears that my right side
pedal IS working itself loose.
So, the question is, is my uni screwed up or normal? And, if it’s normal, then
what am I supposed to do to replace the pedals? It seems that I’ll have to buy
two sets and waste two perfectly good right pedals? I hope this isn’t the case.
Thanks for your help… …JAG J Jugglers Against Gravity A
http://users.deltanet.com/~juggler/ G juggler(at)deltanet(dot)com
Re: Pedals
JAG wrote:
> Attn uni-mechanics:
>
> I want to replace the crappy pedals on my uni. However I discovered that I
> have two left pedals. I understand why bicycles have left & right pedals -
> because the right side pedal would work loose if it was threaded normally. I
> don’t see why a unicycle should be any different. In fact, it appears that my
> right side pedal IS working itself loose.
>
> So, the question is, is my uni screwed up or normal? And, if it’s normal,
> then what am I supposed to do to replace the pedals? It seems that I’ll have
> to buy two sets and waste two perfectly good right pedals? I hope this isn’t
> the case.
>
I’m a newbie to Uni’s, but from my bike tech/mech experience its almost
certainly the case that you have two left cranks - yeah, with a left pedal
threaded into each of them and this IS NOT the way it should be. When, where and
how this happened ? …it could be almost anywhere along the line, since left
and right cranks look pretty much the same on (non-giraffe) unis, unlike bikes
that have chainring spiders. My new Schwinn (7 days old tomorrow) came through
with 1/2 inch thread pedals, I think this is standard on Unis, I had the shop
put on REAL CHEAP rubber block pedals (to save the gym floor while I’m
learning), then I scrounged the originals for spares (-:
Now that I’ve thought it through, somebody somewhere sometime might have just
thrown on “two of those crank arms that don’t have chainring spiders on them”
(sic) without realizing that there ARE right hand cranks sans chainring spiders.
You may find it hard to get the “right” parts (-:
regards,
Reg
> Thanks for your help… …JAG J Jugglers Against Gravity A
> http://users.deltanet.com/~juggler/ G juggler(at)deltanet(dot)com
Re: Pedals
Tom Miller from the Uncycling Factory has everything that we have ever needed
cranks from about 3 inches to 6 or 7. mine are 5 1/2 Cotterless. (I sheared the
axle off my cottered crank).
Look on the FAQ underplaces to get unicycles he is in the states and does mail
order by UPS. We got out uni’s in one week.
Antonio President Aggie One Wheelers.
Re: Pedals
JAG <juggler@deltanet.com> wrote:
: Attn uni-mechanics:
: I want to replace the crappy pedals on my uni. However I discovered that I
: have two left pedals. I understand why bicycles have left & right pedals -
: because the right side pedal would work loose if it was threaded normally.
Erm, on a bicycle the right pedal is threaded normally, and the left pedal has
a reverse thread. That is, the right pedal has a right-hand thread, which is
‘normal’ thread direction. (Normal is, turn a screw clockwise and it moves into
the wood.)
The left pedal would work loose if it was threaded normally.
regards, Ian SMith
Re: Pedals
In article <64nelc$6f$1@achrn.demon.co.uk>, Ian M Smith
<ian@achrn.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>JAG <juggler@deltanet.com> wrote:
>: Attn uni-mechanics:
>: I want to replace the crappy pedals on my uni. However I discovered that I
>: have two left pedals. I understand why bicycles have left & right pedals -
>: because the right side pedal would work loose if it was threaded normally.
>Erm, on a bicycle the right pedal is threaded normally, and the left pedal
>has a reverse thread. That is, the right pedal has a right-hand thread, which
>is ‘normal’ thread direction. (Normal is, turn a screw clockwise and it moves
>into the wood.)
>
>The left pedal would work loose if it was threaded normally.
This is probably an expert unicycle, with one pedal for one-footed forward, and
the other one for one-footed backward (duck) 
As a rule, checking that the pedals are on the right side is very important,
especially for all those uni that get used in clubs, where the seat height tends
to move around a lot, and someone might reverse its direction without thinking.
I used to always check that my pedals are tightly screwed before hopping in the
saddle. Now, I no longer need to: my feet have become sensitive enough to feel
when such a problem occurs.
Marc Espie (espie@litp.liafa.jussieu.fr)Re: Pedals
Nicholas Price wrote:
>
> Ian M Smith wrote:
> >
> > JAG <juggler@deltanet.com> wrote:
> > : Attn uni-mechanics:
> >
> > : I want to replace the crappy pedals on my uni. However I discovered that I
> > : have two left pedals. I understand why bicycles have left & right pedals -
> > : because the right side pedal would work loose if it was threaded normally.
> >
> > Erm, on a bicycle the right pedal is threaded normally, and the left pedal
> > has a reverse thread. That is, the right pedal has a right-hand thread,
> > which is ‘normal’ thread direction. (Normal is, turn a screw clockwise and
> > it moves into the wood.)
> >
> > The left pedal would work loose if it was threaded normally.
> >
> > regards, Ian SMith
>
> Just too add my thoughts. . . My uni came with the “normal” left and right
> threaded cranks, but the pedals still worked themselves loose - often in the
> space of 5 minutes. Obviously the direction of the thread is irrelevant if you
> ride backwards, but I found my pedals just worked loose anyway. Easy solution
> was simply to glue them in. A spanner will provide ample leverage in undoing
> them, but normal cycling doesn’t affect them. The other place this is useful
> is ultimate wheels - rather than knowing which direction you have to ride in,
> you can just jump on ( or fall off as the case may be).
>
> uNICycle@tartarus.uwa.edu.au
>
> Finished exams, and still can’t find time to ride!
There's a commercial product available called "Locktite" <sp?>, and
putting that on the threads might help. Works like glue to hold the
threads together, but it's made to be broken loose when enough force
is applied.Re: Pedals
Nicholas Price <unicycle@tartarus.uwa.edu.au> wrote:
: Easy solution was simply to glue them in. A spanner will provide ample
: leverage in undoing them, but normal cycling doesn’t affect them.
There are special glues for doing this, btw. The generic term would be
‘threadlock’, and in the UK the most common one is called loctite. Basically
it’s just a glue that sets when it is not in contact with the air (so the
bottle always comes 2/3 empty!). You slap it around, do up the part and let it
sit for a bit, then wipe off any still liquid on the surface. The glue in the
threads is away from the air, so sets solid. It comes in different grades,
principally one for something you might want to undo, and one that practically
guarantees it will never ever shift. I’ve never used the fix forever one, but
the other grade is useful stuff for this sort of situation.
regards, Ian SMith
Re: Pedals
In article <64nelc$6f$1@achrn.demon.co.uk> Ian M Smith
<ian@achrn.demon.co.uk> writes:
> JAG <juggler@deltanet.com> wrote:
> : Attn uni-mechanics:
>
> : I want to replace the crappy pedals on my uni. However I discovered that I
> : have two left pedals. I understand why bicycles have left & right pedals -
> : because the right side pedal would work loose if it was threaded normally.
>
> Erm, on a bicycle the right pedal is threaded normally, and the left pedal
> has a reverse thread. That is, the right pedal has a right-hand thread, which
> is ‘normal’ thread direction. (Normal is, turn a screw clockwise and it moves
> into the wood.)
>
> The left pedal would work loose if it was threaded normally.
>
Right, the original poster had stated that his RIGHT pedal was working loose,
which is in keeping with his statement that he has two left pedals, that is to
say, two left cranks arms and two left pedals. I s’pose if you ride backwards
about as much as you ride forwards you would either work both of them loose or
neither, but if you ride backwards a lot MORE than you ride forwards then
clearly you should swap the cranks over (or the saddle) (-:
Reg {gotta get serious about SOMETHING today}
> regards, Ian SMith
Re: Pedals
Ian M Smith wrote:
>
> JAG <juggler@deltanet.com> wrote:
> : Attn uni-mechanics:
>
> : I want to replace the crappy pedals on my uni. However I discovered that I
> : have two left pedals. I understand why bicycles have left & right pedals -
> : because the right side pedal would work loose if it was threaded normally.
>
> Erm, on a bicycle the right pedal is threaded normally, and the left pedal
> has a reverse thread. That is, the right pedal has a right-hand thread, which
> is ‘normal’ thread direction. (Normal is, turn a screw clockwise and it moves
> into the wood.)
>
> The left pedal would work loose if it was threaded normally.
>
> regards, Ian SMith
Just too add my thoughts. . . My uni came with the “normal” left and right
threaded cranks, but the pedals still worked themselves loose - often in the
space of 5 minutes. Obviously the direction of the thread is irrelevant if you
ride backwards, but I found my pedals just worked loose anyway. Easy solution
was simply to glue them in. A spanner will provide ample leverage in undoing
them, but normal cycling doesn’t affect them. The other place this is useful is
ultimate wheels - rather than knowing which direction you have to ride in, you
can just jump on ( or fall off as the case may be).
uNICycle@tartarus.uwa.edu.au
Finished exams, and still can’t find time to ride!
Re: Pedals
Buy new cranks! They’re pretty cheap and two left cranks is stange, not to
mention dangerous. Ever lose a pedal while riding?
RE: Pedals
Depending on your cranks’ threading, your choices are pretty vast. If you have
the 9/16" threads (most commonly found), you could try some S & M BMX
pedals–replaceable pins, decent bearings, cromo axles, lots of color choices.
They run $25 at my local bike shop, and the pair I’ve had on my commuter bike
have lasted for a good 14 months with no maintenance other than a shot of lube
once a month. It’s harder to find good pedals for 1/2" threads (my Schwinn’s
cranks are 1/2" and the pedals on it are marginally effective Mongoose BMXs. I
tried the plastic BMX/DX style pedals, but they didn’t hold up well at all for
me–but I weigh 205, so if you’re not a flabby slob like me, it probably
wouldn’t be an issue. Good luck.
Peter
-----Original Message----- From: Jane and Carl Trachte To:
unicycling@winternet.com Sent: 5/21/00 4:36 PM Subject: Pedals
I had good luck getting some information on rims and sprockets last week, so I
am going fishing for information again. Hopefully I’m not abusing the privilege.
The other day I was riding my cheap, "Made in "T"" unicycle on the
concrete patio when my wife chased me off so that she could water
plants. I decided to be adventurous and have an initial go at MUni'ing.
We don't have pedestrian pavements or curbs where I live, just dirt
paths with rounded pebbles and boulders in them. The last time I tried
to ride on the path near my house I face planted and got some nasty
brush burns (I was actually pretty lucky). This time the skills practice
on the flat patio and some internet research must have paid off. I was
able to do half decent on a slight downhill grade and made some progress
riding uphill. The only thing that went wrong was the sound my uni made
each time I hit another one of the frequent bumps. It was like a
drumstick tapping on a tin can. I isolated the source of the clinks in
the pedal-crank arm attachments. The pedals were coming unscrewed and
would have fallen off had I kept riding. This problem was easy to fix
with a crescent wrench, and I was back in MUni action (well, Morenci,
Arizona MUni action). Still, the incident made me think about what I'm
going to do when my cheap plastic pedals give out in the not too distant
future. Back in the late 80's I had a pair of plastic pedals fall apart
inside just from me practicing idling (unicycle idling, the skill) on my
living room carpet. The bike shop guy assured me that time that they
were mountain bike pedals and were durable. I found that replacing them
with metal pedals made a difference for the better. Has technology
changed much in the past 10 or 15 years, or are metal pedal assemblies,
in general, more durable than plastic? (I know that metal pedals tend to
rip up shins. I don't care; pedal durability is more important to me
than comfort.) The main thing I want to avoid is having to continually
spend money and wait for repairs on stuff that lasts, at most, a month.
My mind is more open to the possibility of purchasing a better unicycle
than my pocketbook is right now, so I've got to be content with working
on skills, tinkering with the mechanics of the cheap unicycle, and
saving for the uni I really want in the meantime.
I know this was a bit long winded, but any input you can give me would
help (other than, "You idiot! Why did you buy that cheap "T"cycle in the
first place?" Answer: it was the only one available in the bike shop and
I didn't know where else to look for a uni [I didn't have Internet
access at the time]).
Thanks for taking these questions into consideration.
Carl Trachte Morenci, Arizona
RE: Pedals
> >"You idiot! Why did you buy that cheap “T"cycle in the first place?”
As a guy who reads the newsgroup in the form of email, it’s clear that I’m not
seeing all the messages. I get lots of replies to original messages that never
came through, like the above.
> “T” is for Titanium, right?
Someday. Start saving up!
> The great thing I like about “T” cycles is they’re upgradable. You can get a
> $100 pile of fun, and when you get bored, you start upgrading parts.
“T” cycles are great for light riding, or for lightweight riders. But if your
riding involves lots of tricks or trails, or if you simply weigh more than the
average kid, you might want to aim higher. The core parts of a bad unicycle
cannot be replaced without essentially starting over. If it has those lollipop
bearings with the bolts on the sides, for instance, the best upgrade is a new
unicycle with a different frame.
> As for pedals, I’ve seen some plastic pedals wear out, but I’ve also seen some
> really cheezy looking metal pedals that probably wouldn’t last any longer.
> I’ve even had an $18 pair of “trap” style pedals that the rivets came loose
> and started creaking.
That’s right. There are plastic pedals that can be very good (even cheap ones),
and metal pedals that will fall apart. Most unicycle pedals are at least “okay”,
but again if you ride a lot, or do lots of learning that involves lots of drops,
they’re going to wear out.
> needed, but I don’t think you’ll ever break the pedal. (Someone may speak
> otherwise here.) There are no rivets to come loose, either.
Most pedals on unicycles don’t bend, and they usually don’t fail from riding.
They get their most damage from drops. That’s why lots of metal trap pedals get
bent and distorted on the ends. This usually doesn’t affect their usefulness
much. Also I have indoor pedals with rubber/plastic ends. Eventually the plastic
wears away and the ends start to come off. This is normal use and service; time
for a new pair.
[Does anyone know where I can get the old-style Semcycle pedals? I don’t think
they have them any more. These were the ones with the squared-off ends. My very
favorite freestyle pedal.
On my MUni, I have a pair of inexpensive rattraps (forget the brand, $20 or $30)
that have worked well for about four years. I want to replace them with a pair
of WAM B1’s though, like I have on my other MUni…
Stay on top, John Foss, the Uni-Cyclone http://www.unicycling.com
“It’s never too early to be Friday” - John Foss
Re: Pedals
Sheldon Brown has an explanation for why the left pedal is reverse threaded on
his web site at http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_p.html#pedal
john_childs
From: Kevin Gilbertson
>Chris Reeder wrote:
> >
> > What is it that makes the pedals unscrew like that? Intuition tells me that
> > you would want left handed threads on the right pedal, and vice versa. But
> > it is obviously not so.
>
>The bearings in the pedal reverses the direction of the force that is exerted
>on shaft of the pedal that is screwed into the crank. It’s similar to how a two
>wheeled unicycle is reversed.
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
RE: Pedals
In article <631B3F1D150FD3118E4D00A0C9EC1BDA22757B@SERVER>, John Foss
<john_foss@asinet.com> wrote:
> > >"You idiot! Why did you buy that cheap “T"cycle in the first place?”
>
> As a guy who reads the newsgroup in the form of email, it’s clear
that I’m
> not seeing all the messages. I get lots of replies to original
messages that
> never came through, like the above.
>
> > “T” is for Titanium, right?
>
> Someday. Start saving up!
>
> > The great thing I like about “T” cycles is they’re upgradable. You can get a
> > $100 pile of fun, and when you get bored, you start upgrading parts.
>
> “T” cycles are great for light riding, or for lightweight riders. But
if
> your riding involves lots of tricks or trails, or if you simply weigh
more
> than the average kid, you might want to aim higher. The core parts of
a bad
> unicycle cannot be replaced without essentially starting over. If it
has
> those lollipop bearings with the bolts on the sides, for instance,
the best
> upgrade is a new unicycle with a different frame.
>
> > As for pedals, I’ve seen some plastic pedals wear out, but I’ve also seen
> > some really cheezy looking metal pedals that probably wouldn’t last any
> > longer. I’ve even had an $18 pair of “trap” style pedals that the rivets
> > came loose and started creaking.
>
> That’s right. There are plastic pedals that can be very good (even
cheap
> ones), and metal pedals that will fall apart. Most unicycle pedals
are at
> least “okay”, but again if you ride a lot, or do lots of learning that
> involves lots of drops, they’re going to wear out.
>
> > needed, but I don’t think you’ll ever break the pedal. (Someone may speak
> > otherwise here.) There are no rivets to come loose, either.
>
> Most pedals on unicycles don’t bend, and they usually don’t fail from riding.
> They get their most damage from drops. That’s why lots of
metal trap
> pedals get bent and distorted on the ends. This usually doesn’t
affect their
> usefulness much. Also I have indoor pedals with rubber/plastic ends.
> Eventually the plastic wears away and the ends start to come off.
This is
> normal use and service; time for a new pair.
>
> [Does anyone know where I can get the old-style Semcycle pedals? I
don’t
> think they have them any more. These were the ones with the squared-
off
> ends. My very favorite freestyle pedal.
>
> On my MUni, I have a pair of inexpensive rattraps (forget the brand,
$20 or
> $30) that have worked well for about four years. I want to replace
them with
> a pair of WAM B1’s though, like I have on my other MUni…
>
> Stay on top, John Foss, the Uni-Cyclone http://www.unicycling.com
>
> “It’s never too early to be Friday” - John Foss
During training for the Guiness Speed record, my left foot kept coming off the
pedal as I would spin up, and I have standard BMX pedals. I installed Velcro on
the pedals and on my shoes, and it works great. My foot doesn’t fall off, and I
can spin up, if I fall, they come off for me to catch myself before I become
face-plant hamburger, if I were to use clips or a foot holding cage. Tim
>
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy.
Re: Pedals
Pretty Cool. I never knew there was more than one type of precession. Gyroscopic
precession makes boomerangs come back.
Chris
John Childs wrote:
>
> Sheldon Brown has an explanation for why the left pedal is reverse threaded on
> his web site at http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_p.html#pedal
>
> john_childs
>
> From: Kevin Gilbertson
> >Chris Reeder wrote:
> > >
> > > What is it that makes the pedals unscrew like that? Intuition tells me
> > > that you would want left handed threads on the right pedal, and vice
> > > versa. But it is obviously not so.
> >
> >The bearings in the pedal reverses the direction of the force that is exerted
> >on shaft of the pedal that is screwed into the crank. It’s similar to how a
> >two wheeled unicycle is reversed.
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com